Which grade of gas do you use?
kluczenk
11-10-2005, 03:41 PM
I just got an 05 TB and was wondering which grade of gas people tend to put in their TB? I have a Vette as my other car so using regular unleaded would be a welcome sight. Thanks!
maxwedge
11-10-2005, 04:21 PM
87 octane.
GMMerlin
11-10-2005, 09:51 PM
I just got an 05 TB and was wondering which grade of gas people tend to put in their TB? I have a Vette as my other car so using regular unleaded would be a welcome sight. Thanks!
There is a wonderful little booklet in your glovebox that has a ton of useful information..its called the Owners Manual.
The recommended octane is 87 octane.
There is a wonderful little booklet in your glovebox that has a ton of useful information..its called the Owners Manual.
The recommended octane is 87 octane.
dach95
11-10-2005, 10:49 PM
used to use 87 then 91, now 89.
balboasdelight
11-11-2005, 11:17 AM
There is a wonderful little booklet in your glovebox that has a ton of useful information..its called the Owners Manual.
I find Owners Manuals less useful with each model year. The OM used to be a thin little boolket with useful information like basic maintenance procedures, fastener torque specs, etc. Modern OMs contain no maintenance procedures and minimal specs, but 138 CYA warnings about potential death and destruction. Like an entire CHAPTER on how to wear the flarpin seat belt -- anyone to whom that information is "useful" has no business operating a motor vehicle.
.
I find Owners Manuals less useful with each model year. The OM used to be a thin little boolket with useful information like basic maintenance procedures, fastener torque specs, etc. Modern OMs contain no maintenance procedures and minimal specs, but 138 CYA warnings about potential death and destruction. Like an entire CHAPTER on how to wear the flarpin seat belt -- anyone to whom that information is "useful" has no business operating a motor vehicle.
.
GMMerlin
11-11-2005, 05:46 PM
I find Owners Manuals less useful with each model year. The OM used to be a thin little boolket with useful information like basic maintenance procedures, fastener torque specs, etc. Modern OMs contain no maintenance procedures and minimal specs, but 138 CYA warnings about potential death and destruction. Like an entire CHAPTER on how to wear the flarpin seat belt -- anyone to whom that information is "useful" has no business operating a motor vehicle.
.
I guess this information is useless
Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles (166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles (166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the life of this vehicle.
See Part B: Owner Checks and Services and Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections .
Footnotes
† The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle's useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See Brake System Inspection .
Engine Oil Scheduled Maintenance
Change engine oil and filter as indicated by the GM Oil Life System (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Reset the system.
Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system.
It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level.
If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. See Engine Oil for information on resetting the system.
An Emission Control Service.
See the mileage intervals following for additional services that may be performed with an engine oil change. After the services are performed, record the date, odometer reading and who performed the service on the maintenance record pages in Part E of this schedule.
7,500 Miles (12 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect filter or change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
22,500 Miles (37 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
• Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Replace engine air cleaner filter on vehicles without a restriction indicator. If equipped with a change indicator, inspect the indicator. If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
37,500 Miles (62 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect filter or change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
• Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
- In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
- In hilly or mountainous terrain.
- When doing frequent trailer towing.
- Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
• Automatic Transfer Case Only: Change transfer case fluid.
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
• Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Replace engine air cleaner filter on vehicles without a restriction indicator. If equipped with a change indicator, inspect the indicator. If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
67,500 Miles (112 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect filter or change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
82,500 Miles (137 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See Footnote †.)
• Replace engine air cleaner filter on vehicles without a restriction indicator. If equipped with a change indicator, inspect the indicator. If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
97,500 Miles (162 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
• V8 Engine Only: Inspect spark plug wires. An Emission Control Service.
• Replace spark plugs. An Emission Control Service.
• Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
- In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
- In hilly or mountainous terrain.
- When doing frequent trailer towing.
- Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
• If you have not used your vehicle under severe service conditions listed previously and, therefore, have not changed your automatic transmission fluid, change both the fluid and filter
• Automatic Transfer Case Only: Change transfer case fluid.
• V8 Engine Only: Inspect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. An Emission Control Service.
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
• Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service, whichever occurs first). See Engine Coolant for what to use. Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap. An Emission Control Service.
• Inspect engine accessory drive belt. An Emission Control Service.
.
I guess this information is useless
Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles (166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles (166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of this vehicle. The services shown at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km) for the life of this vehicle.
See Part B: Owner Checks and Services and Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections .
Footnotes
† The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle's useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See Brake System Inspection .
Engine Oil Scheduled Maintenance
Change engine oil and filter as indicated by the GM Oil Life System (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Reset the system.
Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system.
It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level.
If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. See Engine Oil for information on resetting the system.
An Emission Control Service.
See the mileage intervals following for additional services that may be performed with an engine oil change. After the services are performed, record the date, odometer reading and who performed the service on the maintenance record pages in Part E of this schedule.
7,500 Miles (12 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect filter or change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
22,500 Miles (37 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
• Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Replace engine air cleaner filter on vehicles without a restriction indicator. If equipped with a change indicator, inspect the indicator. If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
37,500 Miles (62 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect filter or change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
• Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
- In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
- In hilly or mountainous terrain.
- When doing frequent trailer towing.
- Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
• Automatic Transfer Case Only: Change transfer case fluid.
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
• Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Replace engine air cleaner filter on vehicles without a restriction indicator. If equipped with a change indicator, inspect the indicator. If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
67,500 Miles (112 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
• Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect filter or change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
82,500 Miles (137 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See Footnote †.)
• Replace engine air cleaner filter on vehicles without a restriction indicator. If equipped with a change indicator, inspect the indicator. If necessary, replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the change indicator (if equipped) at every engine oil change. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter for more information. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
97,500 Miles (162 500 km)
• Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
• Rotate tires. See Tire Inspection and Rotation for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
• V8 Engine Only: Inspect spark plug wires. An Emission Control Service.
• Replace spark plugs. An Emission Control Service.
• Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
- In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
- In hilly or mountainous terrain.
- When doing frequent trailer towing.
- Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
• If you have not used your vehicle under severe service conditions listed previously and, therefore, have not changed your automatic transmission fluid, change both the fluid and filter
• Automatic Transfer Case Only: Change transfer case fluid.
• V8 Engine Only: Inspect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. An Emission Control Service.
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
• Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service, whichever occurs first). See Engine Coolant for what to use. Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap. An Emission Control Service.
• Inspect engine accessory drive belt. An Emission Control Service.
GMMerlin
11-11-2005, 05:47 PM
I find Owners Manuals less useful with each model year. The OM used to be a thin little boolket with useful information like basic maintenance procedures, fastener torque specs, etc. Modern OMs contain no maintenance procedures and minimal specs, but 138 CYA warnings about potential death and destruction. Like an entire CHAPTER on how to wear the flarpin seat belt -- anyone to whom that information is "useful" has no business operating a motor vehicle.
.
The reasons for the 138 cya warnings is for our sue happy society :banghead:
.
The reasons for the 138 cya warnings is for our sue happy society :banghead:
maxwedge
11-11-2005, 07:35 PM
GMMerlin, boy you must have a lot of time on your hands to spend educating the owner of a 30k truck!?
ScarabEpic22
11-11-2005, 08:31 PM
I go by the book, 87 octane all the time. (At least until I get a Westers!)
GMMerlin
11-12-2005, 07:38 AM
GMMerlin, boy you must have a lot of time on your hands to spend educating the owner of a 30k truck!?
Thats because the owner can't educate themselves :loser:
Thats because the owner can't educate themselves :loser:
ScarabEpic22
11-12-2005, 08:51 PM
/\
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what he said :D
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what he said :D
balboasdelight
11-13-2005, 10:01 AM
I guess this information is useless
Scheduled Maintenance
I didn't say the manual was useless; I said it is increasingly less useful, compared to prior versions of the same. Of course a list of scheduled maintenance procedures is useful... more useful would be information on how to actually perform them (which used to be routine in owners' manuals, and still is in many European models). Basically, my gripe is that engineers used to write OMs that had actual value to the owner. Now they're written by lawyers, and in one post GMMerlin extracted 87% of the utility to be found in 200+ pages of CYA BS.
So people who actually work on their own vehicles can either shell out $150 for a shop manual, or just take it to the dealer like a good little customer.
.
Scheduled Maintenance
I didn't say the manual was useless; I said it is increasingly less useful, compared to prior versions of the same. Of course a list of scheduled maintenance procedures is useful... more useful would be information on how to actually perform them (which used to be routine in owners' manuals, and still is in many European models). Basically, my gripe is that engineers used to write OMs that had actual value to the owner. Now they're written by lawyers, and in one post GMMerlin extracted 87% of the utility to be found in 200+ pages of CYA BS.
So people who actually work on their own vehicles can either shell out $150 for a shop manual, or just take it to the dealer like a good little customer.
.
GMMerlin
11-13-2005, 11:31 AM
I didn't say the manual was useless; I said it is increasingly less useful, compared to prior versions of the same. Of course a list of scheduled maintenance procedures is useful... more useful would be information on how to actually perform them (which used to be routine in owners' manuals, and still is in many European models). Basically, my gripe is that engineers used to write OMs that had actual value to the owner. Now they're written by lawyers, and in one post GMMerlin extracted 87% of the utility to be found in 200+ pages of CYA BS.
So people who actually work on their own vehicles can either shell out $150 for a shop manual, or just take it to the dealer like a good little customer.
.
At no time was the owners manual designed to be a repair manual.
The owners manual was designed to inform the consumer on the operation and features of their vehicle.
The reason for all the CYA information is because people will not take responsibility for their own actions and look for someone with deep pockets to blame for their ignorance (what? coffee is HOT! :headshake )
What you fail to understand is that the more complex todays vehicles get, the less and less you and other DIYs will be able to repair on them (along with many untrained mechanics out there)
Intermodule communication strategies and communication protocals are presenting extremely difficult to diagnose concerns.
Would you believe that a fault with your DVD player could cause a no start condition on your vehicle?
How are you going to diagnose it? What tools and testing procedures are you going to use?
The technical information changes so fast that GM no longer keeps volumes of service information in paper form (some paper form is available, but it is obsolete before the ink dries).
All service information is PC based and updated daily to keep up with the changes.
The terminals and connectors used throughout the vehicle have become so small and fragile that improper testing techniques can cause catastrophic failures.
Testing circuits has gone to doing voltage drops and calculating results with OHMS law instead of measuring resistance with a meter.
Testing a circuit with the incorrect impedance test lamp can cause meltdown of a module.
You are going to see a major shift in the next years in the service of vehicles.
The homeowner and independant mechanic are no longer going to be able to do more than change oil.
Even the simple task of rotating tires is going to take some specialized equipment to reset the TPM.
So people who actually work on their own vehicles can either shell out $150 for a shop manual, or just take it to the dealer like a good little customer.
.
At no time was the owners manual designed to be a repair manual.
The owners manual was designed to inform the consumer on the operation and features of their vehicle.
The reason for all the CYA information is because people will not take responsibility for their own actions and look for someone with deep pockets to blame for their ignorance (what? coffee is HOT! :headshake )
What you fail to understand is that the more complex todays vehicles get, the less and less you and other DIYs will be able to repair on them (along with many untrained mechanics out there)
Intermodule communication strategies and communication protocals are presenting extremely difficult to diagnose concerns.
Would you believe that a fault with your DVD player could cause a no start condition on your vehicle?
How are you going to diagnose it? What tools and testing procedures are you going to use?
The technical information changes so fast that GM no longer keeps volumes of service information in paper form (some paper form is available, but it is obsolete before the ink dries).
All service information is PC based and updated daily to keep up with the changes.
The terminals and connectors used throughout the vehicle have become so small and fragile that improper testing techniques can cause catastrophic failures.
Testing circuits has gone to doing voltage drops and calculating results with OHMS law instead of measuring resistance with a meter.
Testing a circuit with the incorrect impedance test lamp can cause meltdown of a module.
You are going to see a major shift in the next years in the service of vehicles.
The homeowner and independant mechanic are no longer going to be able to do more than change oil.
Even the simple task of rotating tires is going to take some specialized equipment to reset the TPM.
maxwedge
11-13-2005, 02:53 PM
Well they better get some talent in the dealerships, I was Cadillac field troubleshooter and I am having all I can do to try to even scratch the surface with the newer technology, guys like GMMerlin are like gold to have involved on these forums. While the cars are getting ridiculously complex, the tech pool shrinks, nice scenario. If this keeps up I may have to " un retire".
Robert1010
11-13-2005, 03:33 PM
I also use 87 octane. But then I don't listen to the crap they always try to sell on TV. Gasoline companies can no longer say premuim will make you car run better (unless it is designed for premuim).
A few years ago, I had a customer that had a rough running condition when very cold outside. I went though all the normal diagnostics. I found nothing out of normal. I asked what grade of fuel was he using?
He said he heard the premuim grade was better for his engine. I had him change to regular. The cold drivabilty problem was gone!
The same compounds in premium that slow down the combustion on high compression engine, ALSO slows down combustion on cold lower compression engines.
How did I fine out about gasoline?
When we started to change over to oxygenated and reformulated fuels, a group of gasoline manufacturers sent out 2 books on fuel.
The books expained auto manufacturers view on the new fuels. The problems the fuel will cause. They also explained that per volume regular had more heat energy, than premium fuel.
Listen to GMmerlin he is correct!
Rob
A few years ago, I had a customer that had a rough running condition when very cold outside. I went though all the normal diagnostics. I found nothing out of normal. I asked what grade of fuel was he using?
He said he heard the premuim grade was better for his engine. I had him change to regular. The cold drivabilty problem was gone!
The same compounds in premium that slow down the combustion on high compression engine, ALSO slows down combustion on cold lower compression engines.
How did I fine out about gasoline?
When we started to change over to oxygenated and reformulated fuels, a group of gasoline manufacturers sent out 2 books on fuel.
The books expained auto manufacturers view on the new fuels. The problems the fuel will cause. They also explained that per volume regular had more heat energy, than premium fuel.
Listen to GMmerlin he is correct!
Rob
dach95
11-17-2005, 09:52 AM
I'm moving back to 87 now:) and see what happens. I agree, we are moving to a new generation where moding cars is just reprogramming the core, look at the Westers Tune... I'm seeing a new generation where hack would be available onine to fix problems. Look at trailvoy, they got a bunch of tech savvy young people talking about the trailvoys and finding ways to improve. I already have a ODBII scanner for my laptop recording details of the truck running.
baskerj
11-17-2005, 10:29 PM
So people who actually work on their own vehicles can either shell out $150 for a shop manual, or just take it to the dealer like a good little customer.
Is $20 for a Haynes/Chiltons too much?
Is $20 for a Haynes/Chiltons too much?
balboasdelight
11-18-2005, 11:34 AM
Is $20 for a Haynes/Chiltons too much?
I've never seen a Chilton manual worth $20. The quality of Haynes varies with the vehicle; some are good, others are crap. I haven't seen the Haynes TB manual. None of them are as good as the factory manual, the price of which is justifiable only if you're doing way extensive mods or repairing others' trucks for pay.
As GMMerlin pointed out, it's a largely useless investment anyway, unless you get a $12,000 computer to go with it.
.
I've never seen a Chilton manual worth $20. The quality of Haynes varies with the vehicle; some are good, others are crap. I haven't seen the Haynes TB manual. None of them are as good as the factory manual, the price of which is justifiable only if you're doing way extensive mods or repairing others' trucks for pay.
As GMMerlin pointed out, it's a largely useless investment anyway, unless you get a $12,000 computer to go with it.
.
ScarabEpic22
11-19-2005, 01:43 PM
Ive got a haynes 02-03 TB/Voy/Bravada repair manual, paid 15 bucks shipped and it has been worth it to me! It is actually very helpful when I pulled the dash the first time and it has pretty good engine how-tos. BTW, it only documents the I6, not the V8, so dont get it if you have the V8 unless you find one that has the V8 info in it.
GMMerlin
11-21-2005, 10:44 AM
I've never seen a Chilton manual worth $20. The quality of Haynes varies with the vehicle; some are good, others are crap. I haven't seen the Haynes TB manual. None of them are as good as the factory manual, the price of which is justifiable only if you're doing way extensive mods or repairing others' trucks for pay.
As GMMerlin pointed out, it's a largely useless investment anyway, unless you get a $12,000 computer to go with it.
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My $12000 computer is my brain :evillol:
As GMMerlin pointed out, it's a largely useless investment anyway, unless you get a $12,000 computer to go with it.
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My $12000 computer is my brain :evillol:
balboasdelight
11-21-2005, 01:15 PM
Ive got a haynes 02-03 TB/Voy/Bravada repair manual
That would be #24072. They don't seem to have a manual out for the 04.
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That would be #24072. They don't seem to have a manual out for the 04.
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hoganradial
11-26-2005, 06:01 PM
Plain old 87 octane.
I do buy it at the same local place at every fill up though.
I do buy it at the same local place at every fill up though.
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