'91 CRX B18A+DRAG turbo kit...

Check out my website for more info on my soon to be badass CRX. I've bought the motor, mount kit, turbo kit, internals, all I need is a tranny and the time to do all this stuff. I've got some cool pics of my new motor/turbo/intercooler and stuff so check it out.

My soon-to-be-badass CRX (http://www.cardomain.com/id/crxess)

Hey nice! I like that set up man! NICE ONE:)

Thanks, i'm putting more money in my new motor/turbo setup than the blue book value of my car but whatever. It's my goal to not necessarily beat all the mustangs and camaro's around here but atleast make them work for a win ;)

Originally posted by PFCfutrell
Thanks, i'm putting more money in my new motor/turbo setup than the blue book value of my car but whatever. It's my goal to not necessarily beat all the mustangs and camaro's around here but atleast make them work for a win ;)

Yeh i definatley agree with you. I do have similar goal:) Except i'm goin N/A though.:D

Originally posted by mellowboy


Yeh i definatley agree with you. I do have similar goal:) Except i'm goin N/A though.:D

N/A 0wnz j00!!!!



But it's too expensive:D

Originally posted by Marc-OS


N/A 0wnz j00!!!!



But it's too expensive:D

LOL. Too expensive? Nah it ain't bad man:) Boosting is alot more expensive. Well it really depends on what u want. I don't wanna go all out. I just wanna upgrade my WHOLE valve train with port and polish head. Stronger rods and 11:5:1 cr pistons. Stronger clutch and lighter fly wheel. I got my ecu chipped by mugen. Well thats about it rite now.Oh and v-tec controller. So yeh. I know its not gonna be more than 4 -5 g's though.:)

Dude all motor is the shit. I have way more respect for people that do all motor with thier honda's then people the F/I it. My brother has a 1st gen CRX with a B16 and he is going to all motor it as well. I am doing Turbo. There is no way I am going to all motor ad D16z6 SOHC VTEC. I am going to turbo that bitch up.

nice setup man!!! I was gonna go b18/turbo in my hatch as well, but decided on somethin else for the moment;)
let us know how it all works out:coolguy:

that means you're gonna need this....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t48011.html

I got a guy that can hook you up with an pre obd to obd1 jumper harness for cheap

Thanks for all the responses, a lot of people tell me "Why build and turbo a B18A? Why not a B18C1?". I have to explain that it's expensive enough buying and building a B18A for turbocharging and that I could make it almost as fast. I've decided to upgrade the entire valvetrain and everything, i've even been considering sleeving the block (the pistons are overbore so machine work would be necessary either way).

Originally posted by PFCfutrell
Thanks for all the responses, a lot of people tell me "Why build and turbo a B18A? Why not a B18C1?". I have to explain that it's expensive enough buying and building a B18A for turbocharging and that I could make it almost as fast. I've decided to upgrade the entire valvetrain and everything, i've even been considering sleeving the block (the pistons are overbore so machine work would be necessary either way). Wow that's gonna be a nice ride, man. The car looks pretty unassuming, innocent enough with the largely unmodified exterior. As you said its a little nerve racking to put more money into your car than the blue book value (been there, done that myself ;) ), but once you get it running it'll all be worth it. And I think your plan is great, building a B18A instead of the more typical B18C1. For me personally I like building a B18C1 instead of a B18A or B18B block because the B18C1 was built to handle higher rpms than the other B18 blocks from the factory, but I know of lots of people doing just fine with good old B18A and B18B blocks, including a couple 9-second cars.

I'd definitely sleeve your block (Golden Eagle sleeves are from what I've seen the best around, with nice water jacket designs and warrantied up to 60 lbs of boost), and replacing the valvetrain components is also a good idea, though I'd only bother replacing the valve springs and retainers. The fact is that stock Honda valves flow as good as or better than most afternmarket valves, so you would be upgrading for construction materials that may handle the heat and high boost conditions better (very few aftermarket valves offer lighter weight than Honda valves). If you are shooting for sub-11 1320's, then I think stainless valves by Ferrea or equivalent would be a good idea. And a CRX with a turbo B series built to handle 20 pounds of boost or more, 10 second passes are definitely a feasable possibility (although difficult on street tires/without wheelie bars).

Originally posted by Frostbyte
Dude all motor is the shit. I have way more respect for people that do all motor with thier honda's then people the F/I it. My brother has a 1st gen CRX with a B16 and he is going to all motor it as well. I am doing Turbo. There is no way I am going to all motor ad D16z6 SOHC VTEC. I am going to turbo that bitch up. My buddy's got a smoking LV/VTEC set-up. Unfortunately I have not been able to check it out yet to see what its got. He's using a '96 B18B1 bottom end with a GS-R head (not sure of what year) in his '96 Integra LS, 11 to 1 SRP pistons, ODB-1 conversion, Skunkworks reprogrammed ECU, and apparently the car hauls ass all the way through the rpm range. He beat a turbo Eclipse GTX (mods unknown) from a start to the end of second gear by about a car length before shifting into third.. and that's with giving the Eclipse driver a head start (he told him "don't worry, I'll catch up"). He's taking it to the drag strip at Lebanon, NH next weekend, and he's hoping for low 13's to maybe 13 flat (though I bet he's more likely to get mid 13's somewhere). I would miss turbo spool or supercharger whine too much to build mine for all motor, but it's definitely not a bullshit method for making power.

i heard ls motors are better for turbo.....i think the block was actually built more suitable for turbo applications....and i think the compression is lower too.....of course this won't matter just cuz you're gonna swap out the pistons.....but yea....but your crx is gonna be crazy man....w/ all that shit....i hope you save up for a rollcage soon!!:D :D

I only need a rollcage if i crash right? Who needs extra weight... just kidding, safety if high on my list of priorities (notice the brake/suspension mods came before big power gains). I've actually found a traction sollution I believe, there's a shop that makes a front crossmember for the CRX that acts like traction bars for a front-wheel drive. They make the front end squat down under hard acceleration minimizing wheelhop and rearward weight transfer, they gaurantee a reduction in 60' times and 1/4 mile times by at least 2 tenths.

you will only need a roll bar if you go 11.99 or faster... a 6 point bar will be suffice...

as for the radius rods, are you getting z10, MB, or competition engineering? I highly reccomend the z10....pricey, but it works..I know the guy who designed it.

i know you don't really NEED a rollcage.....it's just that a built up motor w/ turbo and nitrous in a light ass crx......that's pretty mother f**kin scary!!!....hahaha.....well, i'd be scared......it's just a thought.....i agree w/ you pvang that it's not really necessary, but it's cool.....
but how much does a rollcage cost to buy it and install it??....just a basic 4 point rollcage....let's say, in a 88-91 civic hatchback....anyone know??..or a website or something??

Originally posted by tenzoracerevovii
i know you don't really NEED a rollcage.....it's just that a built up motor w/ turbo and nitrous in a light ass crx......that's pretty mother f**kin scary!!!....hahaha.....well, i'd be scared......it's just a thought.....i agree w/ you pvang that it's not really necessary, but it's cool.....
but how much does a rollcage cost to buy it and install it??....just a basic 4 point rollcage....let's say, in a 88-91 civic hatchback....anyone know??..or a website or something??

4points are more for looks....they're not that expensive for Mild steel...but chormoly is spendy

My roll Bar is an 8 point in chromoly and it cost me 1200 bucks....if I was to do mild steel, it would have cost me 550...This Roll Bar is in my civic sedan....They are making it as we speak.

Originally posted by JD@af
My buddy's got a smoking LV/VTEC set-up. Unfortunately I have not been able to check it out yet to see what its got. He's using a '96 B18B1 bottom end with a GS-R head (not sure of what year) in his '96 Integra LS, 11 to 1 SRP pistons, ODB-1 conversion, Skunkworks reprogrammed ECU, and apparently the car hauls ass all the way through the rpm range. He beat a turbo Eclipse GTX (mods unknown) from a start to the end of second gear by about a car length before shifting into third.. and that's with giving the Eclipse driver a head start (he told him "don't worry, I'll catch up"). He's taking it to the drag strip at Lebanon, NH next weekend, and he's hoping for low 13's to maybe 13 flat (though I bet he's more likely to get mid 13's somewhere). I would miss turbo spool or supercharger whine too much to build mine for all motor, but it's definitely not a bullshit method for making power. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Since I already posted about this in this thread, I figured I would get back to you all with my buddy's astonishing results from today (by the way, I was misinformed - the drags I went to today were in fact held in Lebanon Valley, New York :rolleyes: ).

My buddy made six passes in his Integra today. The only lightening he did was to remove the passenger seat - the AC system, power steering, ABS, etc. are all still intact. He ran it with stock rear tires and slicks up front. With the aid of a 75-shot of nitrous, he was able to pull (sorry, no trap speeds, only ETs):
13.21
12.95
12.77
12.84
12.87
12.85
I was shocked, not only at the incredible times he was able to extract from the car, but the consistency. And his excellent driving was able to earn him first place in the import division today!! (There were faster cars, including an 11-second Mazda rotary - I think an RX-3? - but remember that after qualifying runs, the cars are started with handicaps, so that the best driver will usually come out on top.. seems to have been the case today :sun: )

I saw a '92 Integra GS (B18A powered) with a DRAG turbo kit run a 12.8 second 1/4 mile. My car weighs a LOT less than an integra and i'm building the motor for close to 20psi, i'm expecting some pretty fast timeslips when i'm done.

Originally posted by pvang31019


4points are more for looks....they're not that expensive for Mild steel...but chormoly is spendy

My roll Bar is an 8 point in chromoly and it cost me 1200 bucks....if I was to do mild steel, it would have cost me 550...This Roll Bar is in my civic sedan....They are making it as we speak.

really?......so a 4 point rollcage wouldn't really protect me if i were to, crash or something? Because 1200 bucks sounds VERY expensive for me. I do realize that chromoly is more expensive, i read that in turbo, but your car is going to get an 8 point. a 4 point would be cheaper. but if that doesn't do anything, i dont want it. Any companies you recommend in southern california?? I don't know if you've heard of monkey bars. They have cages and i was wondering if they were any good or if they're only for show.....thanks

MOnkey Bars are for show only...4 points are not leagal in any sanctions of racing at all....

What I would reccomend is taking your car to a chssis builder(with your carpet and passenger seat removed)and tell him what you want...that's what I did