yet another stalling prb

okay it started a few months ago, 96 blazer LS 4X4 S-10 .when i would drive home from college( 3 hour drive) and get off the highway the first red light i hit it would stall. this happened a few times once and while. Well last weekend i went half way home to meet a friend, drove fine all the way to i was about 15 miles from home, going up the moutian hills the truck began to drop rpm and hesistate when i gave it gas. next i come accross the bridge into town and stop at the light, stalls, i was able to throw it into netural and restart. Next light stalls and then crank crank crank, no start, waited a minute started then halled ass one block home. i was'nt about to push it again, pusing blazers anit fun. Well it runs fine small trips from home to school, but i have to go home this weekend and i am afraid it will not make it. I've read about this being caused by the ignition switch and would replaced it but , why would that cause me to have the hesitation and no power that i was having hitting the gas going up hill. Also if related i been having a random SES code "running to rich bank 1" but i just clear it out and it goes out for a few weeks and returns.

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? The other thing you should look at is your fuel pressure. It should be between 60 - 65 psi. See if that helps.

How many miles are on it?
Any other codes?
When was the last time that a tune-up was done?
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
PCV valve

How many miles are on it?
Any other codes?
When was the last time that a tune-up was done?
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
PCV valve

no clue bought the truck almost exatly a year ago. 127k on it right now. been making big 300 mile trips alot latey. i am going to replace these and do an oil change maybe that will help. never did cap/rotor though

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? The other thing you should look at is your fuel pressure. It should be between 60 - 65 psi. See if that helps.
i am not sure bought the truck last year no prior matanice knowledge. i've replaced radator,and altenator, and pcv vavle in past year. I am going to replaced all things listed in above post. Also how do i check this fuel pressure? and should i do it when it starts to die?

thanks

i am not sure bought the truck last year no prior matanice knowledge. i've replaced radator,and altenator, and pcv vavle in past year. I am going to replaced all things listed in above post. Also how do i check this fuel pressure? and should i do it when it starts to die?

thanks

Doing a complete tune up and service is a great idea. This will help you to pin point your trouble. Let us know how you progress.
Checking your fuel pressure: There is a shreder valve to the rear driver side of the plenum. With the ignition in the on position, you should have 60 - 65psi there. If not, I would first replace your fuel filter then test again.

Okay back after two months and problem still around. I've replaced plugs(a/c delco plat) Wires(bosch),Cap,Rotor,Fuel filter,PVC,Air filter,Coil. Check pressure at scredder and its in spec. The stalling/misifireing got so bad i broke down and took it to a shop. He found out there was a bad spark plug buy runing them on a scope, replaced and ran fine for a few days, now i am starting to have misfire at idle again and its starting to do it when cruising again. Water pump broke yesterday and had to replaced that and got a new serpentine belt and put the old on back on.No having good luck but hey i guess its a 10 year old truck. Just wish i could get this problem figured out. Any input would be helpfull. Thanks
-Tom

Not sure if you have tried this yet, or if it is even relevant but when i had my old '85 olds ciera the same thing would happen to me, long drive, get off the interstate, stop at the light and boom car would stall. So during regular maintenance i changed the tranny filter and fluid and drained out the cooler as well, and low and behold i accidently fixed the stalling issue. Who knows, if its been a long time id go for it. Cant lose, and you got fresh fluid in her. But its not likely to fix the engine performance issue.

I just remembered, i had the EXACT same problem as you. All the symptoms, mine had been going bad for a year before i figured it out. I was told everything you were too, lol, and i replaced, EVERYTHING engine performance wise. My buddy who drives a blazer mentioned that it might be my MAF sensor, so i put his in and it was like it just Got a whole new engine. So here is my advice, find someone, anyone to let you use their MAF sensor and see if it makes a difference. You will notice right off the bat. Its a 5 second repair. It's a very essentional engine monitor, but pricey, mine was around $120 bucks but worth every frikin dollar


here is a picture of it. Only cause i confuse MAF and MAP all the time
It basically looks like that, just not as flashy, in between the intake and air cleaner box.

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/images/artlr/350119small.jpg

To expand upon this MAF theory, try to clean 'er up. Get some electrical contact cleaner and clean up dirty area's. Just beware of the 2 wires in the middle.

To expand upon this MAF theory, try to clean 'er up. Get some electrical contact cleaner and clean up dirty area's. Just beware of the 2 wires in the middle.

hey thanks for the info, i tryed to call some buddys and no one has one laying around, so i am going to buy one and try it. Where did u get one from. I wish i still had my old eclipse i used to run a GM MAF on it but i sold it and my new one dont have one. Thanks again
-tom

hey thanks for the info, i tryed to call some buddys and no one has one laying around, so i am going to buy one and try it. Where did u get one from. I wish i still had my old eclipse i used to run a GM MAF on it but i sold it and my new one dont have one. Thanks again
-tom

I just got mine from Auto Zone, Just to make sure, you dont have the CMFI engine right? I think they were on some 94-95 models. Found out from an earlier post that they dont have a MAF. Also I only straight up bought one because i had a confirmation that it was bad, id hate for it to not fix your problem, plus you could still clean 'er up. Well good luck no matter what.

I just got mine from Auto Zone, Just to make sure, you dont have the CMFI engine right? I think they were on some 94-95 models. Found out from an earlier post that they dont have a MAF. Also I only straight up bought one because i had a confirmation that it was bad, id hate for it to not fix your problem, plus you could still clean 'er up. Well good luck no matter what.

i cleaned it a few times and it still acts the same. Its starting to get more frequent again. I cant find anyone localy that will let me borrow thier sensor. Also when on the turnpike today it though a code, cynder 5 misfire. pulled the plug it look perfect. Tommorrow i think i am going to take off the egr and clean it. Also talk around to see if i can get a sensor for a day or two.

BTW replaced so far:

Plugs(a/c delco plat) gaped to spec
Wireset
Cap/Rotor
Fuel filter
Air Filter
PVC Valve

i cleaned it a few times and it still acts the same. Its starting to get more frequent again. I cant find anyone localy that will let me borrow thier sensor. Also when on the turnpike today it though a code, cynder 5 misfire. pulled the plug it look perfect. Tommorrow i think i am going to take off the egr and clean it. Also talk around to see if i can get a sensor for a day or two.

BTW replaced so far:

Plugs(a/c delco plat) gaped to spec
Wireset
Cap/Rotor
Fuel filter
Air Filter
PVC Valve
...i did all the above including cleaning the MAF itself several times, replaced the MAP sensor, the CAT and the Muffler, (both due anyway) cleaned the throttle body and idle air canal, tested the EGR, tested the air cleaner temp sensor, and cleaned my K&N several times to no avail....
One test you could try is a burnout (just be careful on the burnout, dont tear up your engine: sorry but i have to disclaimer) If you hold the brake and gas but all it does is spit and sputter than you have exactly the same issue as i did. I really hope that you can somehow get a MAF to tryout. I hope it will fix your problem. especially before you do all the crap i did...it was such a headache, but the good thing was i replaced a lot of things that i may have tried to put off so it was both good and bad i suppose.

...i did all the above including cleaning the MAF itself several times, replaced the MAP sensor, the CAT and the Muffler, (both due anyway) cleaned the throttle body and idle air canal, tested the EGR, tested the air cleaner temp sensor, and cleaned my K&N several times to no avail....
One test you could try is a burnout (just be careful on the burnout, dont tear up your engine: sorry but i have to disclaimer) If you hold the brake and gas but all it does is spit and sputter than you have exactly the same issue as i did. I really hope that you can somehow get a MAF to tryout. I hope it will fix your problem. especially before you do all the crap i did...it was such a headache, but the good thing was i replaced a lot of things that i may have tried to put off so it was both good and bad i suppose.

Well it was a good idea but no luck again still getting a misfire at idle after driving the truck for about 30 minutes. Ans also a misfire after driving it for a while down the high way. i am really lost on what else to replace. Its getting reduclouis now.

Well it was a good idea but no luck again still getting a misfire at idle after driving the truck for about 30 minutes. Ans also a misfire after driving it for a while down the high way. i am really lost on what else to replace. Its getting reduclouis now.


...are you saying you replaced the MAF to no avail? If so im really sorry to hear that. Its just that every problem you have mimiced mine in every way. Maybee at this point it may be time for an indepth diagnostic from the dealer...but if you have allready done one than im stumped too. One last thing i can say is that about 3 months ago i started getting a misfire, and the check engine light flashed frequently, i thought i was getting a bad MAF again. When i took a closer look I found 2 plug wires fraying on an almost soft metalic coated heat shield on the passanger side near the coolant tank. Check and recheck your wires for grounding or fraying. But since you said you replaced your plug wires i dont think that can be relavent. I hope you figure out whats wrong because i remember the headache i had trying to figure out my problem. I sympathize with you though.

Well it was a good idea but no luck again still getting a misfire at idle after driving the truck for about 30 minutes. Ans also a misfire after driving it for a while down the high way. i am really lost on what else to replace. Its getting reduclouis now.I know it sounds stupid .but have ya checked to see if one of the wires have fallen and is laying on the exhaust?Also take the cover off where it says vortec and the little black round thing in the middle of ur intake.Look down in there to see if there are some real clean places.Like where guess might be leaking. Aslo called washout.you may have an injector,or your presssure regulator maybe leaking.Or maybe your regulator isnt adjusting for the decrease in speed and rpm?i dunno might be worth looking into.

Hey

I hate to bring this up again guys, some of you are probably getting sick of hearing me talk about the ignition control module, but really sounds like it to me, and its a fairly cheap part to replace. my truck always ran nice, then would heat up 15-20 in my commute, and start getting a misfire.

Jkdon