interior lights head lights
strotma
11-07-2005, 10:15 AM
97 GTP
Interior consol lights flash on and off. Head lights come on only when the brights are engaged. --Radio works ok --Fuses ok
Saw a post on headlight/ turn signal/ multifunction switch that might fix this problem.I was wondering where it is located on our cars and the part #.
Thanks guys
Interior consol lights flash on and off. Head lights come on only when the brights are engaged. --Radio works ok --Fuses ok
Saw a post on headlight/ turn signal/ multifunction switch that might fix this problem.I was wondering where it is located on our cars and the part #.
Thanks guys
BNaylor
11-07-2005, 12:36 PM
The multifunction switch is located on the steering wheel assembly. Also your problem could be caused by an ignition switch and harness assembly which wears out with age and use.
Also check the connections to the battery (positive and negative) make sure both are clean and tight.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
Also check the connections to the battery (positive and negative) make sure both are clean and tight.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
strotma
11-07-2005, 03:57 PM
Thanks
bnaylor3400
I'll try the battery cables first. If not, is the multifunction switch easy to replace? If so how.And are U talking about the harness assembly that connects this switch or the ignition switch?
bnaylor3400
I'll try the battery cables first. If not, is the multifunction switch easy to replace? If so how.And are U talking about the harness assembly that connects this switch or the ignition switch?
BNaylor
11-07-2005, 04:42 PM
Replacement of the multifunction switch is a tedious job but can be done DIY with patience. Here is the only procedure written up which should give you an idea of the work involved. It's for a Regal but the Grand Prix is very similar. See link below:
http://www.clubgp.com/cgi-asp/mods.asp?modid=141
On the ignition switch assembly: it consists of a small back module with the contacts and a harness which is part of it, all one piece. Let me know and I can post another procedure for it but it involves similar disassembly like doing the multifunction switch. See pic below:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/switch_igntion.gif
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
http://www.clubgp.com/cgi-asp/mods.asp?modid=141
On the ignition switch assembly: it consists of a small back module with the contacts and a harness which is part of it, all one piece. Let me know and I can post another procedure for it but it involves similar disassembly like doing the multifunction switch. See pic below:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/switch_igntion.gif
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
richtazz
11-07-2005, 04:51 PM
the AC-Delco turn signal/ mulitfunction switch number is D6274A(with cruise) and D6273A(w/o cruise). Your ignintion switch part number, which is what Bnaylor is referring to, is D1491D. The key cylinder isn't the problem, it's the electrical part of the switch.
BNaylor
11-07-2005, 05:11 PM
Here's the procedure for the ignition switch and harness. It was done on a Grand Prix. Maybe one of these days we can add pics but you can reference to the procedure for the multifunction switch.
BEFORE BEGINING THIS REPAIR REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DO THE REPAIR WITHOUT DOING THIS.
Look inside the slot where the tilt steering knob is located. There is a black metal piece where the knob inserts into the tilt mechanism. Pry it back slightly with a small screwdriver. One from an electronics tool set will work. While you have it pried, pull the knob out and it should release.
Remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and remove the cover.
Remove the two screws that hold the top steering column cover in place.
Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key clockwise to the start position. Nothing will happen because you have disconnected the battery prior to starting this project. Lift the top steering column cover being careful not to break it because it is still held in place by the ignition key cylinder. You will see with your mirror near the back end of the cylinder housing a small hole. Stick a small allen wrench in the hole, this will release the key cylinder so that it can be pulled out. Once the key cylinder is removed the column top cover is free to be removed.
The black box below the key cylinder with all of the wires coming out of it is the ignition switch that you are changing. Look at the switch you have purchased for this repair. Notice that the small white plug with two wires attached has a tab on the side that can be pushed down, this is the release for the plug-in. Using your mirror you will see that plug-in against the ignition switch housing where it plugs in. Using a small screw driver press the release tab in against the plug and rotate the plug 90 degrees to the right to remove it. To do otherwise may break the plug.
Remove the plug from the white key release device by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it.
Undo the two screws holding the ignition switch.
Undo the plug at the opposite end of the ignition switch by unscrewing the bolt in the center of the plug and unplugging it.
There is a black wiring plug on top and a gray one on the bottom of the ignition switch plug that need to be removed. This is done by prying the center of the plug case where it meets the ignition harness plug while sliding it forward.
Cut any tywraps holding the wire harness in place and feed it out of the dash.
To install do the reverse of the above, and tywrap the new harness into place. Be sure to properly align the key cylinder when replacing it in the housing and if the key will not come out of the cylinder there is a silver key release button at the bottom of the white device in front of the ignition switch. Press it and the key will come out. Also when replacing the ignition switch make sure that the slot in the switch is properly aligned with the corresponding part on the steering column that fits in the slot.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
BEFORE BEGINING THIS REPAIR REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DO THE REPAIR WITHOUT DOING THIS.
Look inside the slot where the tilt steering knob is located. There is a black metal piece where the knob inserts into the tilt mechanism. Pry it back slightly with a small screwdriver. One from an electronics tool set will work. While you have it pried, pull the knob out and it should release.
Remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and remove the cover.
Remove the two screws that hold the top steering column cover in place.
Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key clockwise to the start position. Nothing will happen because you have disconnected the battery prior to starting this project. Lift the top steering column cover being careful not to break it because it is still held in place by the ignition key cylinder. You will see with your mirror near the back end of the cylinder housing a small hole. Stick a small allen wrench in the hole, this will release the key cylinder so that it can be pulled out. Once the key cylinder is removed the column top cover is free to be removed.
The black box below the key cylinder with all of the wires coming out of it is the ignition switch that you are changing. Look at the switch you have purchased for this repair. Notice that the small white plug with two wires attached has a tab on the side that can be pushed down, this is the release for the plug-in. Using your mirror you will see that plug-in against the ignition switch housing where it plugs in. Using a small screw driver press the release tab in against the plug and rotate the plug 90 degrees to the right to remove it. To do otherwise may break the plug.
Remove the plug from the white key release device by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it.
Undo the two screws holding the ignition switch.
Undo the plug at the opposite end of the ignition switch by unscrewing the bolt in the center of the plug and unplugging it.
There is a black wiring plug on top and a gray one on the bottom of the ignition switch plug that need to be removed. This is done by prying the center of the plug case where it meets the ignition harness plug while sliding it forward.
Cut any tywraps holding the wire harness in place and feed it out of the dash.
To install do the reverse of the above, and tywrap the new harness into place. Be sure to properly align the key cylinder when replacing it in the housing and if the key will not come out of the cylinder there is a silver key release button at the bottom of the white device in front of the ignition switch. Press it and the key will come out. Also when replacing the ignition switch make sure that the slot in the switch is properly aligned with the corresponding part on the steering column that fits in the slot.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
mike561
11-07-2005, 09:14 PM
yea i had a simmilar issue with my 98 gp a few days ago, had my brights on then all of a sudden the outside lights just went out and the inside lights started blinking, when i switched the brights off everything came back to normal. it happens every now and then. could this be a simmilar issue too?
BNaylor
11-08-2005, 01:11 PM
yea i had a simmilar issue with my 98 gp a few days ago, had my brights on then all of a sudden the outside lights just went out and the inside lights started blinking, when i switched the brights off everything came back to normal. it happens every now and then. could this be a simmilar issue too?
It's possible but troubleshooting it is not that easy. All you can do is take an educated guess along with suggestions from the forum. The suggestions above are the only possibilities I can think of for now.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
It's possible but troubleshooting it is not that easy. All you can do is take an educated guess along with suggestions from the forum. The suggestions above are the only possibilities I can think of for now.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
mike561
11-08-2005, 01:29 PM
yea i know what you mean, i was just considering taking it to the dealer, even though i'll probably end up paying and arm and a leg, its so much of a pain in the a** to troubleshoot electrical problems like this
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