lsvtec help!
localboi23
11-07-2005, 01:54 AM
Hello all and greetings from Iraq! I will be finishing up my last 59 days here and will continue my build on my 97 custom Civic back in Hawaii, but need some input on an engine swap. I have been looking at a B18C5 but got distracted by a Dart B20 block with an 84.5mm bore, 2.2L eagle stroker kit, with a B16b head? Well now I don't think I want to spend that kind of money on the motor since I put alot of money into the rest of the car, so now I been checking out an lsvtec motor. I want to know if I purchase an engine build from TPR for $3,900 (brand new) if that is a good deal? Or should I just look around for a hand me down B16b and just throw on a turbo? Either way I want to run an lsvtec that will handle boost from a Drag GEN III turbo kit. Please help me out on making a motor purchase.
Schister66
11-07-2005, 11:18 AM
B18C1 (GSR) is my choice. Its more expensive than the B16b, but it has a little more power and a little more potential.
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civickiller
11-07-2005, 01:12 PM
hawaii huh. which island ?
anyways. just get a ls block, put on a vtec oil pump, get arp rod bolts. slap the vtec head on with the GE kit and your all good.
anyways. just get a ls block, put on a vtec oil pump, get arp rod bolts. slap the vtec head on with the GE kit and your all good.
Schister66
11-07-2005, 01:41 PM
i thought it was alot harder than that....that almost sounds kinda easy....:grinyes:
civickiller
11-07-2005, 01:59 PM
well the 2 main things you want to look out for is the ls oil pump which doesnt flow as much as the vtec oil pump so you might get oil starvation as the higher rpms. 2nd the ls's rod bolts will stretch at the higher rpms, now if they stretch and break will that will lead to a blown motor.
but also putting on arp rod bolts isnt that easy because of the torque required it can warp the rod, you are suppose to take your rods to a machine shop to get them rounded so you dont spin a bearing
but also putting on arp rod bolts isnt that easy because of the torque required it can warp the rod, you are suppose to take your rods to a machine shop to get them rounded so you dont spin a bearing
civickiller
11-07-2005, 02:00 PM
oh yeah then you need to bolt the head up which the oil lines, dowel pins and new hg. then you gotta wire up for vtec and run a vtec ecu
Schister66
11-07-2005, 02:22 PM
it sounds a little harder.....:grinyes:
but definatley doable...
but definatley doable...
Ace$nyper
11-07-2005, 10:01 PM
well the 2 main things you want to look out for is the ls oil pump which doesnt flow as much as the vtec oil pump so you might get oil starvation as the higher rpms. 2nd the ls's rod bolts will stretch at the higher rpms, now if they stretch and break will that will lead to a blown motor.
but also putting on arp rod bolts isnt that easy because of the torque required it can warp the rod, you are suppose to take your rods to a machine shop to get them rounded so you dont spin a bearing
amen
rods and bolts are the key to a LSVTEC lasting *other then pump*
but also putting on arp rod bolts isnt that easy because of the torque required it can warp the rod, you are suppose to take your rods to a machine shop to get them rounded so you dont spin a bearing
amen
rods and bolts are the key to a LSVTEC lasting *other then pump*
S13wanabe
11-15-2005, 02:46 PM
I get my built LS/Vtec back on Friday. garanteed 210+ wheel horsepower NA. I'm incredibly anxious. Oh yeah 91 octane too.
Ace$nyper
11-15-2005, 02:54 PM
I get my built LS/Vtec back on Friday. garanteed 210+ wheel horsepower NA. I'm incredibly anxious. Oh yeah 91 octane too.
setup and pics
at 12:01am friday !!!
setup and pics
at 12:01am friday !!!
civickiller
11-15-2005, 10:15 PM
true dat
if you claim whp numbers, you should put up your setup with pics
if you claim whp numbers, you should put up your setup with pics
Schister66
11-15-2005, 11:39 PM
:useless:
S13wanabe
11-16-2005, 01:37 AM
Yeah I know. I will get it all up ASAP. I will pick the motor up Friday and start to put it in early Saturday but probably won't finish getting it in until Monday afternoon just because of my lack of time because of shitty work. But I will post picks of the motor ASAP. As far as what's done to it: fully blueprinted and balanced, micropolished crank, ITR pistons, Portflow prepped head with slight port & polish and three angle valve job, all portflow accessories in head, Skunk2 stage 2 cams, all basic bolt-ons including the intake manifold which will get me a whole 2 hp, Mugen chipped ecu, aluminum flywheel, act unsprung 6-puck clutch and pressure plate. When I get more money I will get Hondata and squeez a little more hp out of it. All the work was done by Power Pros in Westminster. You guys should hit him up if you want an NA motor built. The guys name is Doug and I can post a phone # tomorrow.
My car is a 1993 Civic 4-door, fully stripped including all power steering, ac, heater, and any little bit of anything I could take out. I even took out that black shit under the seats with a chissle, energy suspension bushings everywhere possible, Skunk2 strut bars (got them for dirt cheap), 15" Rota Slipstreams, Falken Azenis RT615, RS*R race springs, KYB AGX shocks, 2.5" exhaust with high flow cat and ES tuning muffler, gay altezza tail lights from the previous owner of car (if you have stock lights please send), soo to have a 5 or 6 point roll cage. When I have more money seats and harnesses will follow roll cage.
My car is a 1993 Civic 4-door, fully stripped including all power steering, ac, heater, and any little bit of anything I could take out. I even took out that black shit under the seats with a chissle, energy suspension bushings everywhere possible, Skunk2 strut bars (got them for dirt cheap), 15" Rota Slipstreams, Falken Azenis RT615, RS*R race springs, KYB AGX shocks, 2.5" exhaust with high flow cat and ES tuning muffler, gay altezza tail lights from the previous owner of car (if you have stock lights please send), soo to have a 5 or 6 point roll cage. When I have more money seats and harnesses will follow roll cage.
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