98 Bravada Dash Gauges Out, Wont get out of 3rd

Hello, i know their are some other posts concerning this, but i'm still not sure what to tell the mechanic. About a month ago the lights all flashed on my dash. Now it is mostly off and flips on every once in a while. At the same time that this started my car started staying in third gear. Every once in a while this problem will stop for about two minutes and it will shift normally. I noticed that when the car starts the dash goes on normally and then shuts off. If I put it in drive and take it to about (what i think is 30 mph) the dash comes back on and sometimes will stay on, but still no shifting. Also, the service engine soon light has been on since this happened.

I hope someone can help me, i really dont have the money to fix the trans.

Thanks.

Check with a local chain type auto parts store and get a free computer scan...we'll discuss it.

Hello and thank you for your responce. I went to Autozone and the codes came up as follows. P0740, P0753, P0785, P0787, P0973, P1860. They said these are transmission codes. I hope you can tell me something. Thanks again.

P0740 - TCC Enable Solenoid Circuit Electrical...torque converter circuit.

P0753 - 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical...1-2 shift solenoid circuit.

P0785 - 3-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical....3-2 shift solenoid circuit.

P0787 - Shift/Timing Solenoid Low....computer's not seeing a shift after it sends shift command.

P0973 - PCM detects an open or short to ground in the 1-2 SS valve circuit...computer sees shift solenoid circuit trouble.

P1860 - TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical...torque converter apply circuit.

All these point to the 20 wire pigtail connector on the passenger side of the transmission. I've wiggled this connector without raising the car by going under the passenger side at the front door, reached and found the connector and wiggled it a few seconds. It's mounted vertically down on the side of the trans that sticks out and makes a horizonal plane or shelf.
Has this car been in a wreck or took a violent ride off-road?

After re-reading your post, I wonder about the voltage supply...the battery connections. You might try cleaning and re-connecting the battery cables. Might look at the fuses too.

Hello and thank you for your quick reply. Not sure if the car was in an accident, I bought it used but I did order a carfax report on it and it never said anything about an accident. As far as the battery it's pretty new and I did unhook it, clean the terminals and reconnect it at first, to see if resetting the computer would help. What should I do if it is the pigtail connector. Thanks. - Joe

a whole lotta of error codes there that when combined with the dash light problems seem to indicate a wiring problem.

Chris is probably right, check the tranny connector first. Wiggle it or if you can disconnect it, do so and clean it before reconnecting. As far as the dash lights going out and coming back on you may have a weak short to ground. Check all the wiring you can visualy for wear points, shifting all the cables a bit. Fuses will not come back on. You might want to check or replace the relays

Ok, so I went under the car and looked around the transmission. I'm not sure which wires I should be looking at. There's a big plug (big enough to stop a sink drain), going in face down, near the front of the door, with a few wires coming out of it. Then there is a another plug, going in side ways, more towards the back of the door. My guess is that it is the big plug near the front of the door. I did jiggle it, but, it is difficult to get to, so, i couldnt remove it or clean it. Should I get in closer. What is the best way to remove it and should I disconnect the battery.
Thank You.

I had a trans code right after buying my '97 Bravada. I had bought a scanner and service manual so I could do some work myself and after getting the code, I pulled & wiggled the 20 wire connector then ran my hand between all the wires and the trans in case the insulation on a wire had worn on a piece of casting flash. I didn't disconnect the connector, just worked it to get the pins to move in the sockets and hopefully got a better connection. I then reset the trouble code and drove the car without another episode for a few years. Since, I've had a troublesome O2 sensor code come in every few months although I haven't found the cause. The scanner has paid for itself a few times just on this car but it's good on friends cars too. www.autotap.com

Hello, I am just finding this site, so the info may be too late. It may help others in the future. If the gages and trans problems start about the same time, the ignition switch is probably defective. Usually, when the gages come back on, it looks as if you just started the car. The dash indicator lights come on momentarily, but the check engine light stays on. the trans is electric therefore causes shifting problems, hope this helps.

Thanks for all the help. If it is the ignition switch. Does anyone know how I remove it and replace it. I would like to do this myself. I've taken the steering column apart but do not see the screws holding it on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Most of the time, the ignition switch is mounted on the steering column under the dash. It'll have a long, multi wired pigtail attached.

Hey Chris, thanks for the reply. What I really need to know is how to remove it. I've already taken the cover off the steering column. But, I don't see any screws for the ignition switch. Can anyone tell me the right way to remove and replace this. Thanks.

Try this...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=287636&highlight=SWITCH+REPLACEMENT

Thanks Sfrid073, NizZ8, Recurve and our ol' buddy Blazee

Thanks, I think that's gonna help out just fine. I'll report back when I have tried it out. Appreciate the detective work there, Chris.

I'm sorry that I didn't see this thread sooner. I would agree with the others about the ignition switch being the most likely cause. A lot of people have had problems with them. Check fuse number 24 for voltage.

More info listed under problem 3 here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=461182

I'd just like to thank everyone who was able to help me on here, I've finally had the ignition switch replaced and my Bravada seems to be running just fine again. Wish I would have just done that in the first place, but, live and learn. So, thanks again, this site and it's members have been a huge help and saved me some money. - OLDSJOE

I'd just like to thank everyone who was able to help me on here, I've finally had the ignition switch replaced and my Bravada seems to be running just fine again. Wish I would have just done that in the first place, but, live and learn. So, thanks again, this site and it's members have been a huge help and saved me some money. - OLDSJOE

thanks for posting your fix. this thread has over 250 views, hope you helped out a few of them.

The last time that this thread was posted in was over 4 years ago and it has been of huge help to me.

I recently purchased a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 109550 miles on it. It was working fine for a bit before I noticed that the gauges started to flash and the shifting was very temperamental... maybe not even getting out of... THIRD.

So, after I became greatly concerned with the possibility of needing to have the automatic transmission. I went nuts, being a college student - money is not really a luxury that I have. I bought the truck for $3,000 and I figured that I would probably have to invest close to $500 for various things that it needs.

A set of ball joints and tie rod ends got me an inspection sticker, but set me back around $400. In the mean time, the gauges went out randomly. Sometimes they would work; generally by wiggling the key and hitting the steering column, I could get them to work. Always, after I would get them working, the truck would really just stay in third gear. I had almost no power taking off from anywhere, but that didn't limit me from getting up to a pretty decent speed.

It was very difficult for me to gauge my speed, because my... gauges weren't working.

Like I said, I thought I was faced with replacing an automatic transmission - which would easily run me $1500. So, I started looking around and I came across this jewel. This thread saved me so much money, it's not even funny.

Guess what the problem was? Yup, the ignition switch. It cost almost nothing to do, and the results are fantastic. The car shifts fantastically, I have a ton of power in all gears and it works great.

The only guess from the guy that I had the thing repaired by was that since the ignition switch signals the transmission when to work, some of the electrical wiring doesn't signal the solenoids properly and that's where you get the codes from.

I got 3 out of the 5 codes that "oldsjoe" got, so don't be concerned if you don't have the exact codes that he does.

Just some important notes, my Bravada has a remote starter and power locks (as do all others) which are connected to the ignition switch - so be mindful if you do this yourself. Even if you're a little bit off doing anything on the switch, you could run into a problem like I had.

Of course, this is also relevant to the GMC Jimmy and Chevrolet Blazer generally from 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001. I'm trying to get some tags here, so that if anyone has the same problem - they can easily find the information.

The Service Engine Soon (SES) light went off, and I am completely satisfied!!!

Thank you guys!

Hey, thanks sparts308 for sharing your experience with the site!
The Bravada is a fine vehicle but knowledge at the shops may be clouded by the service needs of newer vehicles which leaves sites like this one to be a knowledge base and site members to pass this knowledge along.


While we're at it, have you replaced the transfer case fluid for the blue Autotrac II fluid yet?

Yes!

When I first bought the truck, I had my mechanic do a complete service. He checked all fluids and lubricants, including the Autotrac II, transfer case lube... ball joints etc.

In addition, the SES came back on. A P0410 code, which comes up as "Secondary air intake malfunction".

I was talking to my mechanic about this and he told me that it's the air pump. So, I went with his best judgement. As he was on the phone with me, he noticed that the hose going to the air pump had been improperly installed. He went out and got a new one, as well as the valve connecting it ($35) and he installed it for me. Apparently, the improper installation of the previous hose had caused it to lean against a very hot part of the engine and actually melt - so if anyone ever has this problem, make sure you've checked the hoses to make sure they haven't melted.

It's just about perfect now! The only thing left is seeing if I can seal the leak in the compressor, if so then I'm all good.

No SES light, full power, and good-standing emissions.

Thanks again guys!