96 3.5 Intrepid wont stay running

I'm having trouble getting my 1996 3.5L to stay running after startup. Sometimes it doesn't want to turn over at all. After looking into previous messages in the forum I'm almost convinced the problem is a timing belt that has skipped a tooth. I dont want to get into this if I don't have to. I've switch around some of the relays (fuel pump, Auto Shutdown, Exc Shutdown) and unplugged the cam and crank sensors to see if I could keep it running but no luck. It doesnt want to even fire up with the sensors unplugged (I heard that the computer goes to default when the sensors are unplugged). When I can get the car to fire up it sounds terrible. The motor is running but it sounds like an old ford tractor at the farm and you have to keep on the gas pedal so that it doesnt die out. I can't even cripple the car home in the condition its running. I find it quite strange that one moment the car is running great with no apparent symptoms and then suddenly dies after crossing a bumpy intersection. I'd initially thought that one of these sensors had unplugged on its own but everything appears to be in place. I've also heard this could be a coil problem, though I dont know what to look for- Is the coil pack the six pack connector on the pass side in place of a dist. cap? Also how would I check that before buying a replacement?

If anyone can help me with this diagnosis it would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks

It's not that hard to check the timing belt. I've found the easiest way is to drain the radiator, take the front fender crossmember (that the hood latches to) off, pull out the fans, remove the belts, remove the alternator belt tensioner and remove all the bolts that hold the front engine covers (the large tin cover and the smaller cast cover that covers the driver's side cam sprocket). The last 2 bolts are located behind the harmonic dampener, but can be accessed through the dampener without removing it. The small cover will come completely off, but the large cover will have to be pryed away as much as you can without bending it to improve visibility. With a long ratchet and a short 15mm socket, rotate the engine clockwise until the arrow on the crank pulley matches the mark on the block and check both cam sprockets to see if the single dots on the pulleys fall between the 2 dots above each of the sprockets on the housing. It sounds like a lot, but it's only about an hour of labor.

there's an easier way to tell if the timing belt is broken; take off the oil filler cap and have someone try to turn the engine over. If you don't see the camshafts turning, then you have a broken timing belt. From what you are describing, it sounds like your fuel pump is getting weak, these happen quite often, especially if it's working fine one minute and dead the next. If you had a tooth skip on your timing belt, it would cause the CEL to illuminate, but since you mentioned that it's not on, it would appear that your belt is not the problem. Also to see if you have had a tooth to skip on the t-belt, another easier way is to do a simple compression test. That will eliminate any questions you may have about the integrity of the belt.

I was thinking the belt may be stripped like mine was, it still had decent compression and my cel light did not light. I can't think of an easier way to verify that the belt itself is bad but not broken, but if there is an easier way I'm all ears. I never had my car before it wouldn't start at all, but the previous owner described the problem similarily to the thread above.

cooberpedy if it.s not too late it sounds like you have a faulty EGR valve as you say sometimes it runs good then next time like crap when it runs bad just touch the tubes momentarily at the rear of the intake plenum they will be warm but should not boil water on them or vaporize water if you spray them if really hot this indicates egr fault and needs replacing or check wiring because if no power or ground to valve backpressure trandeucer allows vacuum to valve at all times