700 & 705 Codes

This may be common knowledge but, a 700 code for the trans with a 705 code, shifter position means that the nuetral saftey switch or shift indicator switch is not working. You may not have the back-lights, mine didn't work but they just started.

The point of mentioning this is that the part is $367.00 dollars "cost", over $500 list. A similar Ford or GM part is between $40 and $70 bucks. Anybody else run into this ?

This may be common knowledge but, a 700 code for the trans with a 705 code, shifter position means that the nuetral saftey switch or shift indicator switch is not working. You may not have the back-lights, mine didn't work but they just started.

The point of mentioning this is that the part is $367.00 dollars "cost", over $500 list. A similar Ford or GM part is between $40 and $70 bucks. Anybody else run into this ?

You can rebuild/clean it. Do a search on NSS and there have been articles written on this.

Try this:
http://www.jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp

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My check engine light came on and when Auto Zone checked it for me it said PO705 and says that a malfunction exists in the electrial circuit for hte transmission range sensor (PRNDL input). Would this be the same thing?

My check engine light came on and when Auto Zone checked it for me it said PO705 and says that a malfunction exists in the electrial circuit for hte transmission range sensor (PRNDL input). Would this be the same thing?

Yep, the dealer people call it a "prindle" switch (PRNDL-park, reverse, neutral, drive and low)....people on this forum call it by the older name, Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).

I got that P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input) at my 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport.

I found this, and I hope to be usefull for you

http://www.cherokee-jeep.com/1-2swremov.htm

I send my Jeep to a suposed transmission specialist, and he told me that my trans. was broken. Lol. I repair it by my self and I did't pay a cent.

How's it going everyone. I'm new here and have the same DTC's. I also have a couple more. In all I had 1694, 0705, 0700 and 1899 the Neutral Safety switch thats costs over $300.00. I bought a used 1998 Jeep Cherokee for $1500.00 has 130k. I was stupid to buy a vehicle with the check engine light on hoping it was just a quick fix without looking into what the codes were first, before buying.
Anyhow I replaced the NSS and immediately the reverse lights started working. I got the codes reset at autozone and the codes 0705, 0700 and 1899 came back. but not the p1694 which is a no signal to ECM I know the jeep also had a windsheild leak which I'm wondering if some wires got shorted out etc. I'm going to try cleaning the connections to the ECM and look around for other plugs that could be cleaned. I'm getting really fed up. I know that the NSS has a slight adjustment that can be done but I thought once I saw the reverse lights working that I was all set. The autozone description of the p1899 says that the ECM detected the trans in P/N while the vehicle was in motion, possible causes Failed park/Neutral switch which I already replaced or Open or shorted circuit.

I think I'm going to trade this puppy in.

Can anyone shed some light on this for me. If not maybe this will help someone else out that's having the same problems.

PS. The vehicle runs fine, just won't pass inspection


Thanks
John

Try Ebay. I bought a new one for $149.00 The guy deals with jeep/truck parts from the MFG. He had 10 on hand.

Hey...did you see the sticky I put on top of this forum about engine codes for OBDII???

Everybody here does some mechanical work to keep their XJs running.

There is a lot of posts on rebuilding the NSS instead of buy a new one. Here is one:

http://www.jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp

The easiest way to clear all codes is to disconnect the battery and then reconnect it after waiting about 5-10 seconds.

Try that....

Thanks AlohaBra. I have it fixed now. After replacing the NSS I found the reason it was still starting in other gears. It was intentionally grounded out from the wire harness so it would start in any gear because one of the prior owners didn't want to replace the switch.

I can't tell you how stoked I am to havefound the problem. After one drive around the block the check engine light went out on ot's own. I'm going for re-inspection tomorrow.

Now I can concentrate on som other things i need to fix. I'm sure I'll posting for some help in the future.

BTW I did find out about cleaning it, which would have been great but I cracked the back ceramic part prying it off

Yep....there is a tip for how to do that. Screw the nut back on partly and use that to pry it out.