Cabin Air Filter

Okay, I had to get oil change to avoid going too much over 3k. Of course, the normal garages I trust were full so I reluctantly went to the lovely shop with an attached "upsell" Quick Lube place.

Anyways

They said I didn't have a cabin air filter and unsuccessfully tried to sell me one for like $32. My questions is:

Is one needed in the first place?


I am almost positive they were trying to sell me something I didn't need. From what it sounds like, GM never installs one in the first place. I would like your input though if they are beneficial and if so, if they are cheaper at retail outlets (that's almost a stupid question I know)?

Thanks!

Okay, I had to get oil change to avoid going too much over 3k. Of course, the normal garages I trust were full so I reluctantly went to the lovely shop with an attached "upsell" Quick Lube place.

Anyways

They said I didn't have a cabin air filter and unsuccessfully tried to sell me one for like $32. My questions is:

Is one needed in the first place?


I am almost positive they were trying to sell me something I didn't need. From what it sounds like, GM never installs one in the first place. I would like your input though if they are beneficial and if so, if they are cheaper at retail outlets (that's almost a stupid question I know)?

Thanks!


A lot of GPs did not come with a cabin air filter. However, one from a similar year Buick Regal should fit. The filter is installed on the passenger HVAC intake cowling. It filters air drawn directly into the blower system in normal AC mode and vent mode. Personally I believe it is better and beneficial. It also helps keep debris and leaves out of the blower motor assembly. I installed one in my GTP back in 1998. Both of my Regals have them standard equipment. I believe the cost is around $25 - $30.









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

This link should give you an idea of how to install a cabin air filter:

http://www.mccgp.com/upgrades/cabinairfilter/air_filter.php






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.[/QUOTE]

this is totally not any advise or help but was the potential seeler jiffy lube by chance? lmao they always try the cabin filter sell. on everyone jiffy lube is worthless. in my opinion...;. sorry just had to add that. good luck :evillol:

this is totally not any advise or help but was the potential seeler jiffy lube by chance? lmao they always try the cabin filter sell. on everyone jiffy lube is worthless. in my opinion...;. sorry just had to add that. good luck :evillol:



Good point! They're all like that not just Jiffy but Lube n Go, etc. The one that gets me is the fuel filter recommendation. They want $25 for a $10 part and then attempt to charge $25 to replace it. Total $50.00? :screwy: The second biggest rip off is the ones that do the bogus tranny flushes, charge you $80 bills or so and the following week the tranny crashes.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Hi jessup28 - I just installed a cabin air filter on my '02 GP last weekend. I went to Advance Auto Parts and bought a Purolator #C25245. It cost me $17.99 + tax. Works well, perfect fit. They wanted $37 for the AC Delco brand. The dealer sells those for $20.

It ain't just the quick lube joints, even the dealers and the indy shops are big time into the "upsell" biz. Easier to get a higher bill on each vehicle serviced than to service more vehicles

My wife won't take her car for any maintenance or service anymore because of the high pressure salesmanship. Don't know what the single gals do, maybe i should offer my services?

I don't know about you guys but I'm a tight wad and considering once installed you're supposed to change the cabin air filter out every 15K miles or annually. If you have a Checker/Kragen/Schucks in your area they have a brand called Air Qualitee Part Numbr AQ1001 that goes for $11.39 plus tax. It looks good quality wise and works as well as any Fram, Purolator, Deutsch, or AC Delco.









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

No, it wasnt a Jiffy Lube. Similar setup though. I went to the Tuffy's in the older part of town (service chain). I go in to talk to them and they are like "pull around to the back" and you see the 5 people standing around...I should have backed out then and there.

That's what I get for not wanting to deal with used motor oil and not changing it myself.

Speaking of which, my company's owner is building a Jiffy (scam) Lube right next door to where I work. I apparently can get a "discount" there if I would ever choose to take it to those idiots.

It was funny...they had the filter out and were unscrewing the plate to fit the filter in and I was like no, I can do that myself if you can.

In the end I knew better and didn't get overcarged :).

If you see ones out there called "Three Stooge's Oil & Lube" stay away from those guys they can really mess you up.
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If you see ones out there called "Three Stooge's Oil & Lube" stay away from those guys they can really mess you up.
.
.

Is that for real? :lol2: Or are you referring to the Pep Boys - Manny, Moe & Jack.









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Is that for real? :lol2: Or are you referring to the Pep Boys - Manny, Moe & Jack.

Ya, Moe thats one of them I think Larry lives next door to me.Hes been working on the dry wall in his house for about six yrs.
I wish I could have gottin video of the lube shop around the corner I swear their related to the Stooge's
As a courtesy they'll clean your windshield with a greasy rage.
.
.

my experiences with the chain stores is also terrible...the last time i took my old car for an oil change, i was waiting for TWO hours for them to do it....the car was on the ramp the whole time...

The manager told me "Oh you came just before breaktime, you will have to wait"...

During that time i was calculating costs, and it came to me that for 30$ they will change the oil and filter, oil from an unmarked barrel, and the cheapest filter they have, or for 10$ i can buy castrol GTX and for 5$ a fram filter. So basically i save 15$ each time, around 45$ a year. Im so used to the procedure now it only takes my 30 minutes including jacking up time so get the whole thing done...

My advice, spend the time to do these simple jobs. You know you are doing it right, and you save a bundle of cash too.

-Steve

PS oh i saw that FRAM sells a "quick-change oil kit". its basically a valve you screw in inplace of your oil pan plug, then when you want to change the oil you just click on a hose and it drains out cleanly, anyone tried one of these, im wondering if it could further reduce my oil change times ??

IMO...the new quick change oil valve could be asking for trouble. I would wait a few years for other people to test it. Something may malfunction after long term use and cause all the oil to drain. Besides an oil change usually doesnt take more than 10 minutes the old fashioned way. The only advantage of Frams system is that it may be a little neater.