Stalling?

This is kind of an odd problem. I go to start my car and for the first couple seconds it seems ok, but then the RPM's start going mad and the car keeps sounding like it doesn't get gas for a second then it starts going again. If I don't let it warm up (and sometimes even when I do) for more than like 30 minutes or so then once I put it in gear it dies right away. Sometimes it even dies before that and I have to restart it. It even dies when I am driving it but it only happens when I don't have my foot on the gas at all. If I do have it on the gas then it just keeps feeling like the engine quits for a sec then goes again (even at higher speeds this happens) kinda like it stutters? Strange thing is some days (usually hotter ones) it does not give me any troubles and drives perfect. I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, plugs and wires, retimed the engine because of the dist. cleaned connections on the fuel pump relay, and put in new air filters. Any ideas on what this could be would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Oh yeah, it's an 85 305 TPI in case that helps.

intriuging....

no codes? I'd love to say it's a coolant temp sensor issue, they're cheap at like 8 bucks, but if it's that bad it should throw a code 14 I think.

yeah most likely a sensor problem. has the car been garaged lately, like not driven for a year or something

hmm do the rpms jump up and down like crazy.. it could be your o2 sensor. thats just a symptom that makes me think so.. could be your coolant temp sensor as well

Actually I replaced the CTS. Yes the RPM's do jump up and down alot, never thought of O2 sensor but I did figure it was a sensor. I kinda figured this might have been a common problem. Seems weird that it happens only in the cold though... but it still happens when it's hot but not as often.

Oh yeah, no codes either. CEL does come on after it stalls, but I think that is just beause the engine is no longer running.

OK, I replaced the O2 sensor and the CTS and it still does the same thing. Anything else you might know of that would do this?

my car is doing the same thing....it runs like a champ in the summer but right when this cold comes it craps out if the engine is not over 180.

is it a MAF equipped car?

Its running lean. Check the plugs for signs of white stuff. Or you have a pretty significant vacuum leak. See how much vacuum it pulls with a vacuum gage (should be 20 in) Maybe bad 02 sensor 9replace anyway it will save on gas) or the ignition module or knock sensor+ timing problems.

is it a MAF equipped car?I was thinking that same thing, I had a bad MAF and it use to cause stalling all the time and stuttering due to not giving a accurate reading of the air that was entering the manifold so the injectors were getting pulsed with a inadequate amount of fuel which caused stuttering but there could be other causes as well.

MAF doest it, but in this case its probably a combination of things, because when maf is bad perfomance goes down, but the vechile is still good to drive, because it substitutes last known setting of maf and uses 02 mostly

Yes it is a MAF equipped car but I don't think that is the problem because the car works great when it is hot most of the time. Plugs just replaced and looked all good. Not sure on vacuum leak but I don't believe it has one. The car does not throw codes and I just retimed it too. None of the stuff seems to help it. I know the car is able to be driven year round and not supposed to have to be warmed up for 30-45 minutes with multiple restarts (even in warm weather). It just sucks because I love the car but I feel unsafe driving it because it keeps stalling.

doesn't the maf on these also double as a intake air temp sensor (in a way)?

It might pick up the density of the air, and since cold air is more dense..? I dunno.. I hate to have to buy a new MAF and then not have it fix the problem.

My car is having a near-identical problem. In fact, last night it died about a half-mile from home. About half of the time upon startup, it idles at 600rpm, then jumps to 1,100rpm, and repeats. It also stalls when putting it into gear from park. I'm in the middle of calling up a buddy with an OBD tool, but from what I can tell from the current symptoms and cross referencing my haynes manual, I've come to the conclusion that it's a faulty EGR valve, mostly likely with carbon build-up around the intake, but possibly a sticking diaphragm. My car is a 1989 Iroc-Z28 5.7L, and it cost me $54.95 for a new one from Advance Auto Parts. I truly hope that this helps; I know how much stress this can cause. I love my car and it just had to start acting up with my wife and 12-day-old son in the car with me.

-Eric Green

The previous owner unhooked the EGR valve and it does not make any difference weather it is hooked up or not, it still does the same thing. I have also thought that this could be the problem, but could not figure out why it would only do it in cold temps.