coolant

Hi,
When I had a shop replace the water pump two years ago, they flushed the orange stuff out and replaced it with green, Because they have had bad luck with the orange coolant.
Fine with me, But yesterday I was taiking to a mechanic and he said that is bad and will cause acid erosion in the system.
Maybe even erode the intake manifold and cause leaks.
Any thoughts on this?

Also on the Caddy discussion list, they really advocate using Bars Leak Gold in the system to avoid leaks. GM even adds it on the assembly line.
I realize the caddy northstar is aluminum, and my engine is still iron, (97 5.7) (aluminum intake though?) But I think I might add it to the coolant when I put the manifold back on.
Any thoughts on this topic?
Thanks, Bob B

Imo , if it leaks it leaks for a reason and needs to be fixed not patched. It is like this muffler tape or putty you can buy to patch a hole in your exhaust , sure it will work for a bit , but eventually the hole will get so large it will need to be fixed and if a hole internally in the engine gets to that point it could get more costly than simply fixing the leak in the first place. With regards to what your mechanic told you about the green coolant causing acid erosion, i have never heard that.

Imo , if it leaks it leaks for a reason and needs to be fixed not patched. It is like this muffler tape or putty you can buy to patch a hole in your exhaust , sure it will work for a bit , but eventually the hole will get so large it will need to be fixed and if a hole internally in the engine gets to that point it could get more costly than simply fixing the leak in the first place. With regards to what your mechanic told you about the green coolant causing acid erosion, i have never heard that.

He said that from switching from orange stuff to green stuff will cause acid in the system.
BTW he's not my mechanic, I almost always am. Was just talking to him since I may need a retime of the dist after replacing the manifold gaskets.
thoght it looks like the mani will lift without messing with the dist.
Bob B

He said that from switching from orange stuff to green stuff will cause acid in the system.
BTW he's not my mechanic, I almost always am. Was just talking to him since I may need a retime of the dist after replacing the manifold gaskets.
thoght it looks like the mani will lift without messing with the dist.
Bob B
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Hi,
I had to re register, Was Sherman69 so now I'm Bob B.
I was wrong about not removing the distributor. It definitely had to come out.
Those stupid little screws that hold the cap are NOT captive. Lots of fun finding them after they fell out.
It was immaculate There is no erosion/corrosion so the guy I talked with was full of it or talking worse case.
Bob B

Hi,
(97 K1500 5.7 truck.)
Well I put the truck back together yesterday. All went well. (I took my time and was slow because I have my wife's car to drive and also my old 1969 Land Rover named Sherman).
The fuel pump fixed the pressure leakdown, I left the new fuel pressure regulator in, and I replaced the manifold gaskets to fix the coolant drip that started up about the same time.
I've cut the opening in the bed and made a temporary cover using the piece I cut out and some plates on the edges. It drops right in, But I plan to make a real cover from a junkyard part. The local selfserve will take $10.00 for a piece of bed floor, but I haven't figured out how to cut it out yet.
Even got the distributor back in with my marks and have no error codes.
And wonders! no left over parts. There sure are a lot of sensors and wiring and brackets on the manifold.
I had one question when I got done about a little hose to nowhere on a solenoid for the fume vapor cannister (forgot its name). So I looked at a friends 97 Tahoe and it had the same hose to nowhere. So I figure it is a venting opening.
It smelled a bit rich at first, but the computer had to do a relearn.
No drips and it runs fine.

Bob B (was Sherman69)

Switching from Dexcool to green is not the best idea.
If it came out with Dexcool stay with it.
Dexcool is made for the newer aluminum engines and rad and heater cores. It does better at holding down corrosion.
Some GM factory engines like cad. have pellets installed to help on stoping leaks. Do not use bars liquid in place of them.
If it has been changed over to green you might as well stay with it now.
The main thing is to keep it changed ever 3-3 years.
Even the Dexcool will go bad in 3-4 years Not as good as GM says the 7 year 70K 100K is bull on it.
MT-2500