starter or relay or cable problems?
elvisload
11-01-2005, 08:07 PM
92 Taurus 3.0... Has been cranking slowly with some initial clicking noises. Replaced battery... it wasn't the battery... now the starter relay clicks but starter won't turn at all. My question is: What's the order of things to do next? I will jump the relay terminals to see if the starter turns... if it does... does that point to the relay or possibly the bat cables?
Anyway, an overall approach to this problem is what I'd like to hear about. Just assume your Taurus quit turning over and you knew your battery was good and you could hear your relay click when the ignition was turned. What's the next best series of moves?
Thanks in advance, I know there are a lot of good people on this forum, they have helped me with some really nasty Taurus problems in the past!
Anyway, an overall approach to this problem is what I'd like to hear about. Just assume your Taurus quit turning over and you knew your battery was good and you could hear your relay click when the ignition was turned. What's the next best series of moves?
Thanks in advance, I know there are a lot of good people on this forum, they have helped me with some really nasty Taurus problems in the past!
shorod
11-01-2005, 10:59 PM
I would next remove the battery cables from the battery and thoroughly clean the terminals and the cables. Inspect the cables for corrosion. If you have the temporary bolt-on ends, remove them and inspect for corrosion. Throw them away at your first opportunity and replace them with proper cables. Inspect where the cables terminate for corrosion.
With the connections clean, reattach to the battery, making sure you have a good snug connection. Try to start the car again. Anything seem different? If not, have the battery load tested. You don't know how long the "new" battery has been sitting on the shelf. Sulfate can build up on the plates of the battery sitting on a shelf, reducing its storage capacity.
If all those prove fine, I would next suspect the starter motor. As the brushes in the motor wear down with use, they get to a point where the tension springs don't force them to make a good connection with the commutator and that's why you get the click, the solenoid is engaging but the starter motor isn't turning. Tapping on the starter motor housing jostles the brushes enough that that make contact with the commutator and the starter runs for another start or two.
-Rod
With the connections clean, reattach to the battery, making sure you have a good snug connection. Try to start the car again. Anything seem different? If not, have the battery load tested. You don't know how long the "new" battery has been sitting on the shelf. Sulfate can build up on the plates of the battery sitting on a shelf, reducing its storage capacity.
If all those prove fine, I would next suspect the starter motor. As the brushes in the motor wear down with use, they get to a point where the tension springs don't force them to make a good connection with the commutator and that's why you get the click, the solenoid is engaging but the starter motor isn't turning. Tapping on the starter motor housing jostles the brushes enough that that make contact with the commutator and the starter runs for another start or two.
-Rod
elvisload
11-01-2005, 11:27 PM
Thanks Shorod. I'll do all that and report back tomorrow. Thanks again.
mstamerjohn
11-04-2005, 08:51 AM
Hey Elvisload,
I have the EXACT same problem with my 92 Taurus 3.0. I wanted to know if replacing the starter worked for you. Also, and this is a newbie question... where is the starter located? Thanks for your help!
Matt
I have the EXACT same problem with my 92 Taurus 3.0. I wanted to know if replacing the starter worked for you. Also, and this is a newbie question... where is the starter located? Thanks for your help!
Matt
elvisload
11-04-2005, 09:31 AM
mstamerjohn
YES IT WAS THE STARTER! THE STARTER IS LOCATED IN THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE UNDERNEATH, ABOUT DEAD CENTER, (YOU'LL NEED TO JACK UP THE FRONT END A FEW INCHES, YOU'RE GOING TO ATTACK THIS PROBLEM LAYING ON YOUR BACK).
THERE ARE 2 MOUNTING BOLTS, BOTH ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE STARTER. THE MOUNTING BOLT TOWARD THE REAR CAN BE REMOVED WITH A 13MM SOCKET OR WRENCH. THE ONE IN FRONT IS COMBINATION MOUNTING BOLD AND STUD FOR THE NEGAVITE WIRE, REMOVE THE OUTTER NUT, TAKE THE WIRE(S) OFF, THEN REMOVE THE ENTIRE STUD WITH THE SECOND NUT. YOU ALSO NEED TO REMOVE THE 2 WIRES ON THE OTHER END (PASSENGER SIDE) OF THE STARTER, ONE HAS A PLASTIC RED CAP OVER IT (JUST PULL OFF THE CAP AND TAKE THE NUT OFF THE STUD, REMOVE THE WIRE), THE OTHER IS A PUSH-ON WIRE CLIP (JUST PULL IT OFF). NOTE: REMOVE ALL THE WIRES BEFORE YOU TAKE OUT BOTH MOUNTING BOLTS! THE STARTER WILL LOWER STRAIGHT DOWN EASILY BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE LOWER FRAME.
IT'S VERY SIMPLE TO DO, SLIGHTLY CRAMPED UNDER THERE WITH WIRES AND HOSES HERE AND THERE BUT JUST PUSH THAT CRAP TO ONE SIDE AS YOU WRENCH ON THE BOLTS. AS STARTERS GO, ITS FAIRLY SMALL AND LIGHT, EASY TO HOLD IN PLACE WHILE YOU PUT THE 2 MOUNTING BOLTS BACK IN. A REBUILT ONE AT THE PARTS STORE WILL RUN YOU AROUND $100, A NEW ONE $200, I GOT THE REBUILT. (TAKE THE OLD ONE IN WITH YOU) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLES FROM THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU START.
YES IT WAS THE STARTER! THE STARTER IS LOCATED IN THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE UNDERNEATH, ABOUT DEAD CENTER, (YOU'LL NEED TO JACK UP THE FRONT END A FEW INCHES, YOU'RE GOING TO ATTACK THIS PROBLEM LAYING ON YOUR BACK).
THERE ARE 2 MOUNTING BOLTS, BOTH ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE STARTER. THE MOUNTING BOLT TOWARD THE REAR CAN BE REMOVED WITH A 13MM SOCKET OR WRENCH. THE ONE IN FRONT IS COMBINATION MOUNTING BOLD AND STUD FOR THE NEGAVITE WIRE, REMOVE THE OUTTER NUT, TAKE THE WIRE(S) OFF, THEN REMOVE THE ENTIRE STUD WITH THE SECOND NUT. YOU ALSO NEED TO REMOVE THE 2 WIRES ON THE OTHER END (PASSENGER SIDE) OF THE STARTER, ONE HAS A PLASTIC RED CAP OVER IT (JUST PULL OFF THE CAP AND TAKE THE NUT OFF THE STUD, REMOVE THE WIRE), THE OTHER IS A PUSH-ON WIRE CLIP (JUST PULL IT OFF). NOTE: REMOVE ALL THE WIRES BEFORE YOU TAKE OUT BOTH MOUNTING BOLTS! THE STARTER WILL LOWER STRAIGHT DOWN EASILY BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE LOWER FRAME.
IT'S VERY SIMPLE TO DO, SLIGHTLY CRAMPED UNDER THERE WITH WIRES AND HOSES HERE AND THERE BUT JUST PUSH THAT CRAP TO ONE SIDE AS YOU WRENCH ON THE BOLTS. AS STARTERS GO, ITS FAIRLY SMALL AND LIGHT, EASY TO HOLD IN PLACE WHILE YOU PUT THE 2 MOUNTING BOLTS BACK IN. A REBUILT ONE AT THE PARTS STORE WILL RUN YOU AROUND $100, A NEW ONE $200, I GOT THE REBUILT. (TAKE THE OLD ONE IN WITH YOU) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLES FROM THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU START.
mstamerjohn
11-07-2005, 09:30 AM
Sure enought it was the starter... and now the car is running again. Your directions were perfect, but you forgot 1 important detail. You need some WD40 to get the bolts off the engine block. Mine were so rusted on!! But i guess that happens after 207k miles.
elvisload
11-07-2005, 09:33 AM
CONGRATULATIONS! FEELS GOOD DON'T IT?
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