Help Wanted: Resin casting experience, apply within

OK.

I used up all of my alumilite stuff. I'm ready to start looking for a new system. preferably something that is high polymer and flexible so that I can cast full motors with out much trouble.

My original plan called for casting a line of products marketable to pro touring builds, however, my recent engagement with Top End Miniatures, I plan to use this for personal use only.

I would like to be able to cast and re-use modern engines and components so as not to have to buy complete kits....I can't tell you how many times I would have rather dropped an LS1 or a modern blue oval mod motor in an old car without having to buy a whole model to get one and end up with TONS of parts left over.

So, here is what I'm looking for, recommendations from people with experience, as to what products would be good, and relatively affordable. specific products would be nice.

Thanks In Advance
Russell

http://www.smoothon.com

I've used both Alumilite and Smooth On and Smooth On makes Alumilite look cheap and amateur quality.

I used their smooth cast 300 system, but the number you use depends on what type of setting time you require.

My opinion is the exact opposite of Rays. I love Alumilites High Strength II RTV.

Most professional volume resin casters use Vagabond resin ( www.vagabondcorp.com).

Silicones Inc. in High Point NC (www.silicones-inc.com) is a good source for RTV in bulk. I used the GI-1100 formulation as it has a high persentage of elongation (400%) and a high enough durometer (firmness) to support itself without needing reinforcement. Be sure to order the long library life catalyst. It doesn't cost anything additional and it will legthen the shelf life of your molds.

I bought resin in 10 gallon kits and RTV in 50 lb kits. You will go through a lot of both. Remember, resin absorbs water like brake fluid, so buy only what you can use in a month or so and store it well.

If you want truely professional results, in addition to the materials, you will need a vacuum chamber to de-air RTV before pouring your molds and a pressure chamber for curing resin after filling the molds. The vacuum and pressure chambers can be made from relatively cheap materials, but you will not get the high quality parts you see from the major resin manufacturers without them.

Some people are going to be very angry with me for posting these sources. :grinno:

And here I was casting parts the old-fashioned way this weekend, in an open mold w/crappy 2 year old Alumilite resin which was kind of like working with molasses or maple candy. But now I have the '69 Lincoln grille section I needed (that Modelhaus doesn't offer) and a nice supply of disc brakes :biggrin:

So, are you saying I don't know what i'm talking about, Bob? :grinno:

I know you've personally seen the process first hand..........

So, are you saying I don't know what i'm talking about, Bob? :grinno:

I know you've personally seen the process first hand..........

Yep, I've seen the right way to do it (and many resin casters could use the experience you got), and yet there I was doing it the way most newbies go about it, and the results weren't too bad considering.

Mike should use you as a consultant considering all the casting he intends to do.

I think I'll go downstairs and brush paint a Ferrari tonight after biting the parts off the trees with my teeth :eek7: :evillol:

I swear, someday I'm gonna write a tell-all book. It'll be the inside story on the resin business. All the sorted details. I'll name names and let all of the secrets out of the bag. I have to find a secure hideaway first though.

I've been using Smooth-On, and was blessed to have beginners luck.
But the more I use it, the less satisfied I am. Partly due to increasing standards on my part, partly due to reaching the limits of the product.
I just got some Alumalite to try. If it is better but costs more, so be it. I need the quality. If it turns out to be the same, I'll go back to Smooth-On.
If you are just starting out, the Smooth-On may be the way to test the waters so to speak, and see if you really want to get into it, I get it from my local Pearl craft store... - Mark

I havn't found a local supplier for anything other than alumilite. and that was found at the hobby lobby. My goal is to be able to cast things such as engine blocks, complete with heads and all in one peice. so i need an RTV that has a high elasticity. I have emailed both vagabond and silicones inc. I beleive I am going to give their products a try and see how it works.....what types of casts can be expected without the pressure pot? that will be something that I add later.

Smooth-On claims you don't need a vacuum or pressure pot. To get the quality I want so I don't spend a ton of time on clean up and filling air holes, I think you do, at least the pressure pot for casting the resin. I have no complaints about the RTV they sell. - Mark

The nice thing about Vagabond is they are a small company and they can tailor resin for your application. They offer their standard resin in slow, medium and fast gel times. You can start with slow to give yourself some working time and as you improve your skills youcan move on to faster resins for speed.

If you need a special resin like a color pigment added, or a more flexible resin, they can do it quickly and easily.

I havn't found a local supplier for anything other than alumilite. and that was found at the hobby lobby. My goal is to be able to cast things such as engine blocks, complete with heads and all in one peice. so i need an RTV that has a high elasticity. I have emailed both vagabond and silicones inc. I beleive I am going to give their products a try and see how it works.....what types of casts can be expected without the pressure pot? that will be something that I add later.

Engine blocks would need to be at least a two part mold. Whats wrong with having more mold parts? Some 1/8 scale engines require as much as a 5 piece mold.

So why are does it have to be a one piece mold?

I cast complete engines in one piece molds. It's easy with the right RTV. I'll draw it out for you at the Nov. meeting. I can even show you how tires can be cast without a visible part line.

I cast complete engines in one piece molds. It's easy with the right RTV. I'll draw it out for you at the Nov. meeting. I can even show you how tires can be cast without a visible part line.

OutaFocus, is this OutaPocketMolds? I need a refresher on that process as well.

We need the sordid details :biggrin:

http://www.smoothon.com

I've used both Alumilite and Smooth On and Smooth On makes Alumilite look cheap and amateur quality.

I used their smooth cast 300 system, but the number you use depends on what type of setting time you require.


We have a friend who has been casting with the Smooth On resin, it's very strong and is more stable long term after it's cured.