New GTP. DIES OUT????

I just bought a 2001 GTP and occationally when deaccelerating the engine dies. The previous owner put a cheap cold air intake (made from PVC pipe) that take air in from the fender. there was also a sub system in the trunck but he took that out and left the wiring, could he have messed up the electrical?

Please help, This is turning out to be a real pain in the butt.

How many miles on it? When the problem occurs do you lose any electrical such as instrument panel lights, etc.? Check your battery connections and the grounding.

Other symptoms or details may be helpful for people to weigh-in on your problem.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

There are 37,000 miles on it. When it dies no other instruments are off that i can see, but i am concentraiting on getting it started as fast as possible.

The car doesn't die out all the time, but when it does the engine seems to loose power until i give it a lot of throttle.

There are 37,000 miles on it. When it dies no other instruments are off that i can see, but i am concentraiting on getting it started as fast as possible.

The car doesn't die out all the time, but when it does the engine seems to loose power until i give it a lot of throttle.

Wow, 37K miles. Just out of bumper to bumper warranty?

Sounds like a possible fuel delivery problem. Has the fuel filter ever been replaced? Try it or get the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) tested. Range of 45 - 55 psi. Should be tested with the vacuum line to the FPR connected and disconnected.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Well the check engine light just came on during lunch. Time to see what it says is wrong wiht my car.

Well the check engine light just came on during lunch. Time to see what it says is wrong wiht my car.

Great! Get it scanned and let us know if you need any further assistance.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

If it happens while decelerating, do you think it could be a TCC solenoid Bob? At what speed does it try to stall?

If it happens while decelerating, do you think it could be a TCC solenoid Bob? At what speed does it try to stall?

Anythings possibe Rich but he finally got a SES light. Maybe the codes will give us further insight. :dunno:






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

The engine would cut out or run rough (if i caught it) at about 20 MPH, But i will see what the error code gives me.

I got the error code last night. p0101 - MAF performance fault. Would this cause the problems that i described above and also surging during acceleration?

I got the error code last night. p0101 - MAF performance fault. Would this cause the problems that i described above and also surging during acceleration?

Yes. Try cleaning it first. If not it will need to be replaced.

BTW - Use only electrical/electronics cleaner only.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I agree with Bnaylor, try cleaning the MAF with electronics parts cleaner. Do not use carb cleaner or you'll ruin it. If the previous owners cheap CAI includes a re-usable air filter element, there is a good chance excess oil from the filter mucked up you MAF.

I agree with Bnaylor, try cleaning the MAF with electronics parts cleaner. Do not use carb cleaner or you'll ruin it. If the previous owners cheap CAI includes a re-usable air filter element, there is a good chance excess oil from the filter mucked up you MAF.

Hey Rich, can you give him a cost on the MAF sensor. Expensive little bugger. Thanks.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Gladly Bob, AC-Delco part # 213-1617, runs $129.99 plus a $60 core deposit for the old one.

Where can i get that cleaner at?

Where can i get that cleaner at?

I got my cleaner at Radio Shack. It's safer than automotive type contact cleaners. Around $9.00 per can but lasts a long time. Good luck!


Only clean the bottom part the pen points to which are the hot wire elements.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/maf.jpg





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

thank you

Nice pic BOb, did you not have enough coffee that morning? :evillol: Just kidding, I've seen that pic from and earlier post and know you took it with your camera phone.

Nice pic BOb, did you not have enough coffee that morning? :evillol: Just kidding, I've seen that pic from and earlier post and know you took it with your camera phone.


lol. :lol2: Yeah Wylie got me on the blurry aspects last time. It's the spare one from my GTP. But now I don't have to worry about about the stock MAF sensor. I have a Granatelli cold air tuneable MAF mounted off the throttle body midstream between the CAI and TB intake. Similar to the way a MAF mounts in a LS1 and the '04 and up Grand Prixs.

BTW - Just another hot rodder trick to keep ahead of the competition. :biggrin:






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

got my cleaner at autozone.

37000 miles...not even broke in yet...must be nice.

still young enough for a few mods hehehe...

I didn't have the right torx driver to take the sensor out, but i cleaned what i could see until i can get one. It didin't die as much today. hopefully it will work. $11.00 much better then $130.00.

I didn't have the right torx driver to take the sensor out, but i cleaned what i could see until i can get one. It didin't die as much today. hopefully it will work. $11.00 much better then $130.00.

Sounds good. Just a suggestion but check to make sure the throttle body screen is installed and clean too. Some previous owners remove them for whatever reason but I recommend keeping it installed.

Also, if the MAF sensor cleaning doesn't work and you get big time driveability problems you can run with the MAF sensor disconnected for a short period of time. Comes in handy and could prevent a towing bill. All the PCM will do is detect the MAF signal missing and switch over to internal pre-programmed parameters based on TPS position, rpms and MAP pressure. The only side effect is the idle will be a little erratic until the engine warms up and the PCM switches over to closed loop mode. Good luck!







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I cant see a screen isn't is supposed to on the end of the throttle body?

Thnaks for the tip about removing the connector.




:newbie:

I cant see a screen isn't is supposed to on the end of the throttle body?

Thnaks for the tip about removing the connector.




:newbie:


Sounds like it's been removed. It helps diffuse and smooth out the air flow coming in to the MAF sensor, etc. Normally it's installed at the opening of the throttle body by a big c-clip.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

where can you get a screen and is it hard o install?

where can you get a screen and is it hard o install?

Probably at a GM dealer or a salvage yard. You'll need the screen and the big c-clip. The screen will just slip in at the throttle body opening, then you install the c-clip to hold it in. You'll see a groove where the c-clip fits in.

BTW - The screen will also help catch any excess oil from the K&N style air filter installed on most CAIs.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Now i and really lost and REALLY pissed.

I Cleaned the contacts inside the MAF, but shortly after that the same problems continued. Earlier i had unhooked the MAF and drove for a half hour with no problem. The idle was around 900-1000 (700-800 before), the engine never stalled out, and the accelleration seemed to be a little better.
After I cleaned the MAF I took out the car and less than fiveminutes later the same problems started back up. Even after I unhooked the MAF agin it didn't run "normal" again, it actually wouldn't idle at all and occationally a t cruising speed it would loose power for a second.

List of Problems:
1. Random dying while deaccelerating
2. Random dying while idling, it would idle fine sometimes, but then die or idle rough.
3. While "the problem" was occuring acceleration suffered also.
4. Occational loss of power while cruising under 73 MPH (didn't loose power while cruising at 73 MPH for several hours.)


These are all the problems that I have encoutered so far, PLEASE HELP.

Certain 2001 - 2002 Grand Prixs and other GM "W" bodies are known to have defective CAT convertors. The CAT convertor emissions warranty was extended out to 10 years/120K miles, whichever comes first.

You might consider taking it to a dealer and have them check out the CAT convertor. If found bad they will replace it for free.

You should call Pontiac customer service, give them your VIN and see if your car qualifies. See copy of letter below:

**************************************************

This is a special policy that raises warranty coverages on the converter in case you experience a failure.

Dear General Motors Customer:

As the owner of a 2001-02 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix; or Buick Regal model vehicle, equipped with a 3.4L or 3.8L V6 engine, your satisfaction with our product is very important to us.

This letter is intended to make you aware that some 2001-02 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix; and Buick Regal model vehicles, equipped with a 3.4L or 3.8L V6 engine, may have a condition where the catalytic converter is replaced due to complaints of lack of power or illumination of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). This may be due to the front endcone insulation from the catalytic converter breaking away and blocking the front of the first catalyst brick and preventing the free flow of exhaust gas through the converter.

This is not a recall. Do not take your vehicle to your GM dealer as a result of this letter unless you believe that your vehicle has the condition as described above.

What We Have Done
General Motors is providing owners with additional protection for the Catalytic Converter. If this condition occurs on your 2001-02 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix; or Buick Regal model vehicle, equipped with a 3.4L or 3.8L V6 engine, within 10 years of the date your vehicle was originally placed in service or 120,000 miles (190,000 km), whichever occurs first, the condition will be repaired for you at no charge .

What You Should Do
Repairs and adjustments qualifying under this special coverage must be performed by a General Motors dealer. You may want to call the service department at your dealer to find out how long they will need to have your vehicle so that you may schedule the appointment at a time that is convenient for you. This will also allow your dealer to order parts if they are not already in stock. Keep this letter with your other important glove box literature for future reference.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Hey bnaylor3400: Thanx for the fussy pic again I won't adjust my screen this time.
Just would like to clear up some confusion I have about the MAF sensor.
I haven't replaced mine yet because in the warmer weather the symptoms weren't as bad but now that the cold is here its worse.
Anyhow if I buy a new one and replace it I have to disconnect the battery. why?
And if I pull the old one and clean it I don't? plus the cleaner is an petroleum base product,thats OK?
.
.

Hey bnaylor3400: Thanx for the fussy pic again I won't adjust my screen this time.
Just would like to clear up some confusion I have about the MAF sensor.
I haven't replaced mine yet because in the warmer weather the symptoms weren't as bad but now that the cold is here its worse.
Anyhow if I buy a new one and replace it I have to disconnect the battery. why?
And if I pull the old one and clean it I don't? plus the cleaner is an petroleum base product,thats OK?
.
.


Hi Wylie. The battery does not have to be disconnected to replace a MAF sensor. Just undo the electrical connector plug before removing the MAF.

The cleaner should not be petro based. Diluted alcohol or electrical contact cleaner is best.

What problem are you having? Maybe we can help? :dunno:








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Thanx its the same problem I posted once before when your diving under load say uphill the power fluctuates if you tap the brake or throttle down it goes away for 100 feet or so then starts again.
On flat ground you don't notice it.I was told it was the MAF sensor but I would have to disconnect the battery to put a new one in?
.
.

Thanx its the same problem I posted once before when your diving under load say uphill the power fluctuates if you tap the brake or throttle down it goes away for 100 feet or so then starts again.
On flat ground you don't notice it.I was told it was the MAF sensor but I would have to disconnect the battery to put a new one in?
.
.

Oh yeah, I vaguely remember. It's called the old chug or chuggle. May be torque convertor clutch (TCC) related or maybe not.

It could be the MAF sensor but it could be a host of other things too. Are you running the OEM AC Delco 7mm plug wires and AC Delco platinum spark plugs?

Now that it's acting up you might consider taking it to a tranny shop that has tranny scan capability and see if any DTC error codes are showing up. A lot of tranny codes will not trigger a SES light but the code is stored for retrieval. "A" codes will trigger the SES light. "B" codes trigger SES after two consecutive trips (drive cycles). "D" codes do not trigger the SES light.

I've seen and heard of people replace a lot of parts and still have the chug. :dunno:








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

After reading all posts I've seen here about MAF I'll really think thats what the problem might be I'll try the cleaning method and see what happens.
I had in at the tranny shop a while ago for fluid/filter and asked them to scan it about the hard shifting and he said every thing was OK.

I wish I had the space at home I'd love to take this thing of the road for the winter,the winters here are brutal on cars.
.
.

After reading all posts I've seen here about MAF I'll really think thats what the problem might be I'll try the cleaning method and see what happens.
I had in at the tranny shop a while ago for fluid/filter and asked them to scan it about the hard shifting and he said every thing was OK.

I wish I had the space at home I'd love to take this thing of the road for the winter,the winters here are brutal on cars.
.
.

Yeah it figures on the prior tranny scan. That's typical. Doesn't hurt to try the MAF sensor. At least you can rule it out....simplest and easiest.

Also, there are suggestions to try Sea Foam or Lubegard tranny additive. That stuff will do wonders for marginal and sticky solenoids and clean up the valve body. Under $10.

Winter....what winter? :lol2: Luv the snow and cold but not what it does to the car. At least it's FWD.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

do not use a petroleum based cleaner, it will leave a residue that will short out the MAF. You need to disconnect the battery to eliminate any chance of damaging the new sensor while unplugging/replacing it.

do not use a petroleum based cleaner, it will leave a residue that will short out the MAF. You need to disconnect the battery to eliminate any chance of damaging the new sensor while unplugging/replacing it.

I disagree on the MAF sensor. The 5 v reference signal to the MAF is not present when the ignition is off. Messing with the battery when you don't have to causes a higher risk of damaging the PCM and any emissions electronic component.

What I would recommend after cleaning or replacing the MAF is resetting the PCM and remove any possible stored DTC error codes that did not trigger the SES light and put the PCM in re-learn mode.


BTW - My recommendation not to disconnect the battery for MAF is consistent with the GM Grand Prix service manual. For example: to troubleshoot DTC P0101, 102, 103 (MAF error codes), all that's recommended is to make sure ignition is OFF. It doesn't say anything about disconnecting the battery. The same is applicable to the TPS and IAC on the throttle body. Plus disconnecting the battery would make troubleshooting those type of components very difficult. Just my common and 2 cents. :2cents:









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I agree that it's not required, but I always disconnect power when working on anything PCM/ECm related, just to be extra safe.

I agree that it's not required, but I always disconnect power when working on anything PCM/ECm related, just to be extra safe.

It's a matter of personal preference and the situation at hand. If you really want my two cents on electronic components I enforce a wrist grounding strap rule to cut down on static electricity discharge (ESD) at work. Thats where the real damage occurs. In reality, there are no exceptions to automotive electronics either.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.