More timing belt questions
Marauder2004
10-26-2005, 08:00 AM
Well it's all ready to go but I'm still waiting on a new (hydraulic?)tensioner to arrive. I was putting on the new belt and both cam sprockets line up great with the belt marks, but down below on the crank appears a little different from what the Haynes book shows. There are green paint marks on all three sprockets and they line up perfectly on the cam sprockets with the tick marks on the rear cover, but the green paint mark is 180 degrees off on the crank sprocket when I dial it in as stated by the book. The book shows lining up the woodruff key on the crank sprocket with the tick mark on the block, but that puts the green paint mark 180 off.
When the woodruff key is lined up with the tick mark on the block, it points to the driver's side of the truck. So, for those of you who have done this before, does this sound right, or should I dial the crank around 180 degrees so the paint mark lines up with the tick on the block?
When the woodruff key is lined up with the tick mark on the block, it points to the driver's side of the truck. So, for those of you who have done this before, does this sound right, or should I dial the crank around 180 degrees so the paint mark lines up with the tick on the block?
php
10-26-2005, 08:24 AM
Marauder- There are two marks on the crankshaft pulley. One on the back side, closest to the engine, is supposed to line up with the timing mark on the oil pump. The other is 180 degrees opposite that mark on the outside of the pulley. This mark on the outside is where the alignment mark on the belt is supposed to line up.
Marauder2004
10-26-2005, 11:50 AM
I'm still a little unsure about this. I haven't checked the backside of the crank timing belt pulley, but the front of it has a mark on it that also has green paint on it. The marks on the cam pulleys also have paint on them. The cam pulley marks line up perfectly with the lines on the belt, but the mark on the front side of the crank pulley is 180 degrees off from the line on the belt and the mark on the oil pump (assuming the oil pump is the thing bolted in directly behind the crank pulley).
So, does it sound like I need to spin the crank around 180 degrees so the mark on the front side of the crank pulley lines up with the oil pump mark and the line on the belt?
And when the cam marks and belt lines are both lined up, should the line on the belt at the crank be on the driver's or passenger's side ofthe vehicle?
I know this cannot be as complicated as it sounds!
Marauder- There are two marks on the crankshaft pulley. One on the back side, closest to the engine, is supposed to line up with the timing mark on the oil pump. The other is 180 degrees opposite that mark on the outside of the pulley. This mark on the outside is where the alignment mark on the belt is supposed to line up.
So, does it sound like I need to spin the crank around 180 degrees so the mark on the front side of the crank pulley lines up with the oil pump mark and the line on the belt?
And when the cam marks and belt lines are both lined up, should the line on the belt at the crank be on the driver's or passenger's side ofthe vehicle?
I know this cannot be as complicated as it sounds!
Marauder- There are two marks on the crankshaft pulley. One on the back side, closest to the engine, is supposed to line up with the timing mark on the oil pump. The other is 180 degrees opposite that mark on the outside of the pulley. This mark on the outside is where the alignment mark on the belt is supposed to line up.
php
10-26-2005, 11:56 AM
The mark on the back side of the pulley is just a notch, like a half circle removed from the lip of the pulley. This is the mark that is supposed to line up with the oil pump. You don't have to take the pulley off to see it.
2eyefishclaw
10-26-2005, 06:40 PM
belt may be marked wrong I have seen it before if you lined your timing msrks up before removing the old belt and did not turn any of your pulleys after then just be sure all of your timing marks are correct and install the new belt. start the vehicle before reinstalling the timing covers if it runs good youve got it right if it runs rough start all over
Marauder2004
10-27-2005, 06:15 PM
php and 2eyefishclaw, you guys rock!
I learned that it helps if you have the belt turned so that the belt markings can be read from the front of the engine. Once I figured out the notch on the backside of the crank pulley and lined up the belt mark with the notch that's 180 degrees from the notch, everything fell into place. Of course the cam pulley notches and belt lines were already lined up. After moving everything out of the way, but before putting the timing covers and other belt driven accessories back on, I fired the old thing up, and it purred like a kitten! A couple of hard romps on the pedal assured me that the timing was just right.
The main problem with this truck was the tensioner, which I had been waiting on for a week, and it arived today. The new belt is much more snug than the old belt was with the old tensioner on it.
Per the suggestions of this forum, I also replaced the idler and tensioner pulleys, water pump, crank seal, and opted to also replace the coolant line to and from the oil filter/pump/cooler, or whatever that thing is down below that the filter screws into. Is that the pump or just a factory remote mount with a built-in oil cooler?
Anyway, all is well and tomorrow after work I'll put it all back together and take her for a spin around the block.
Thanks folks for your wealth of help!
I learned that it helps if you have the belt turned so that the belt markings can be read from the front of the engine. Once I figured out the notch on the backside of the crank pulley and lined up the belt mark with the notch that's 180 degrees from the notch, everything fell into place. Of course the cam pulley notches and belt lines were already lined up. After moving everything out of the way, but before putting the timing covers and other belt driven accessories back on, I fired the old thing up, and it purred like a kitten! A couple of hard romps on the pedal assured me that the timing was just right.
The main problem with this truck was the tensioner, which I had been waiting on for a week, and it arived today. The new belt is much more snug than the old belt was with the old tensioner on it.
Per the suggestions of this forum, I also replaced the idler and tensioner pulleys, water pump, crank seal, and opted to also replace the coolant line to and from the oil filter/pump/cooler, or whatever that thing is down below that the filter screws into. Is that the pump or just a factory remote mount with a built-in oil cooler?
Anyway, all is well and tomorrow after work I'll put it all back together and take her for a spin around the block.
Thanks folks for your wealth of help!
surferfletch
10-27-2005, 07:49 PM
Glad to read the summary. I'm waiting for my tensioner to show up. Should be here tomorrow. I have the belt, water pump, and pulleys. For some reason the tensioner didn't come with the timing belt change kit. So I ordered it from St. Charles. That'll be the weekend job...
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