intake manifold

ok im going with a 351 with tfs twisted wedge heads, i was woundering if i could get this http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=BBK5001+01
one or do i have to get a 351 intake manifold.
also what rocker arms should i get does it matter are they all the same.
and i need a oil pan and oil pump to, ive seen kits that come with every thing but they all say "not stroker deep' or something like that.

what size harmonc blancer should i get.

You can't use that manifold you need to use one made for a 351W cause the block is wider.

As far as what dampner do you mean what weight? That would depend on what you used for internals and if you had it balanced what you had it balanced for. Also remeber the flywheel/flexplate needs to be of the same balance.

I have never seen the term "not stroker deep"... I think you would need to be running a very larger than stock block stroke to really have that be an issue. Having the oil pan that fits your Mustang k-member would be of bigger conern.

Pimp I haven't been around much and looked through what your up to but I'll be honest from these questions I think you should rethink if your ready to start tackling this.

What he said.

Look into the canton pans. They have a large variety. Thats who I got my pan from.

that is what i thought about the intake but i just wanted to make sure, http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=+-58965+-59014+-42367
my bad its Stroker Clearanced, and ill ask the people that are bilding my block about the blance thanks.

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefikb&GHOME=www.holcomania.com&TITLE=Holcomb_Motorsport_Parts
i found this stage 3 clutch its the 10 or 11 one down , is this a good clutch, also can i get a 5.0 clutch or not i dont think ive ever seen a clutch that said 351, thanks

If I'm not mistaken the 302/351w use the same flywheel/flexplate with the differences being the counter weight. Both engines have used 28oz, 50oz, and 0 or internal balance. Just depends on the year. But if you are buying a complete aftermarket shortblock then like you said I would just ask the people who are building it. Then you will have to get a clutch thats the right size for your specific flywheel, in your case the clutch will probably be 10" or 11" disk. You will probably need a 164 tooth flywheel. I'm not sure if there is a choise of 157 or 164 tooth flywheel like there is with flexplates. But if there are then your bellhousing will require one or the other. As far as your clutch manufacturer goes I would suggest a Spec. I have heard alot of stories about centerforce clutches not being all they are cracked up to be, the dual friction disk I've heard is good, but the pressure plates are supposed to be fairly weak. Just a few heads up for ya.

http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefikb&GHOME=www.holcomania.com&TITLE=Holcomb_Motorsport_Parts
i found this stage 3 clutch its the 10 or 11 one down , is this a good clutch, also can i get a 5.0 clutch or not i dont think ive ever seen a clutch that said 351, thanks

Stage 3, have fun driving it :eek7: on the street.

o i will thanks

o i will thanks

If your idea of fun is stalling the car at every light, thats a little :screwy:

Stage 3 is a real Grab-N-Go clutch.

Stage 3 is a real Grab-N-Go clutch.

Well said.

I would never run one for a street car, but that is because I am a wuss. Oh, and I don't like to embarass myself stalling the car all the time, or haveing to take off like a bat out of hell every time at a stop light. Cop is next to you, what do you do? Just put it in park:evillol:

like what do you mean its a real grab and go clutch, like it engages fast.

will i need any other little parts to put this on my 351 and tko600,

The stage 3 clutch will either be engaged or disengaged. There is no kinda sorta. It is or it is not. So when you go to let out on the clutch pedal you better be ready to give it some gas, or stall out. I'd say you will have limited tire life as well :tongue:

yeah but what if you take off in second gear. and what about the the things i might need, do i need a new clutch fork or bearings or any thing.

Pimp,

Not to be mean, but you have no idea what you are doing.

Pimp,

Not to be mean, but you have no idea what you are doing.


:1:

Pimp I think you should just hold off and a lot more reading/research. Learn to walk before you crawl try just getting a nice 306 shortblock and doing some H/I/C to get some expirence under your belt.

Or just pay a shop to do all of it cause your right now from these questions are def showing your in over your head. I mean you can't even figure out what clutch to order for a 5.0 or 351W and then if you figure that out. You now want to throw in a TKO600 but don't know that the input and output spline count are now gonna be different and you need a different clutch disc and tranny yoke.

Let alone explian things like 302 roller blocks are 50oz inbalance, 302(non-roller), 351W are 28.8 balance then moving on to 302(roller) stroker motors change to 28.8 balance cause balancing a 50oz on a stroker would make swiss cheese of your crank. then moving on to inetrnally balanced. And the shit just gets deeper...

You really need to rethink this....

Basically Pimp, they're telling you that you can not ride that clutch or ease out that clutch. Either in or out, either let that clutch out fast and give it alot of gas or STALL! I haven't had to shop for clutches before but I would go with a Cobra clutch, or check out some advertizements in 5.0super fords and Muscle Mustang and Fast Fords magazines. You want a clutch that will grab at the track but also one you can be happy with on the street. I don't blame you for wanting the best stuff you can buy, but, unless this is going to be an all out drag car, just get parts that performance wise are a couple notches above stock. I hate to say this, but you know the old saying, (KISS) KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!

Well said GTStang. We are not trying to team up on you pimp. But you do need to figure out what you want, what you are able to get, and what you are capable of doing. Just trying to save you a small fortune, as well as your sanity.

i know i can put it all to gether for a fact, i mean the suff other then the internals of the block, wich i could probully do but dont want to. i just dont know what parts im going to need to make this work, if i could find i list of the parts i will need that would be great, that is why im asking all these dum questions to find out wich parts i should get and are the best to use, and i know what i want all i want is a 393 fuel inject engine that will if i want to be able to handle lots of power so when i do start turning this car in to a mainly drag car can handle the supercharger with a trans that can handle the power that ill be making mainly i dont want any more then 600hp right now, i have any were from 10 to 15 thousend to spend till may then i will have more after may, im 19 live withe my parents have no bills and have a vary good job so i have the money. and i do read muscle mustangs and fast fords. thanks

Pimp,

You might have the money, but you need an idea of what you are doing. From your post, that is blatantly not there. You need to read and understand a lot more, than just a list of parts that cost a lot of money. What you are trying to build, will not work well together.

What Skyline is trying to tell you is that you can buy the biggest and the best of everything and end up with an absolute dog. Where you could do a little research and save some cash but make a boatload of power.

ic then what would be a good setup that you would recomend,

would a 347 be alot easer, and how much hp would a 347 make just the engine, and how much would a 393 make.

347 vs 393. Well you have a 8.2" deck 302 based stroker and a 9.5" deck 351 based stroker. ~50ci is not really that "key". I'f it where me I'd do just like I'm doing and keeping a 3.5" stroke in my 351. But thats because I'm hoping to make this car a weather dependant daily driver.

Anyway back to your question. I hate to say it but...Asking how much power the strokers will make is just another way to basic and very begginer newbish kinda question. If you are asking questions like that then you need to do alot more digging. Search the archives in "motor building" forums. Try google searches. Just dont beleive everything you hear. We can help you to build a nice motor for the right amount of money. But you need to do some looking and see what you really want to get out of this thing.

well whith the trans will i have to get a differnet clutch disc and tranny yoke like gt stang siad if i have a 347 rather then a 393 with the tko600, i cant find any other trans that can handle 600hp other then the c4 but that is only 4spd i have the mustang and fast fords, they bilt a 347 and show you ecactly what they used and they made 420hp with no power adders, i mean 420hp not blown that is enough for me, i thought the 393 would make that much but if a 347 can make that the a 393 has to be a little bit more.

could you explain a little bit on the tko600 haveing different input and output spline count i thought the tko600 and 500 and t5s were the same and they could be used on any 302 or 351. or is he talking about the old stuff in my car, not realizing that im getting every thing new.

Since I have never used a TKO600 I really cant tell you. But your best bet is to call spec for the flywheel & clutch stuff. Then call any well know vendor that carries the tko stuff. Just ask the people that work with the stuff everyday what you will need. Asking us what you personally need is like asking a tire salesman to design you a custom cam.

I went with a 351w, because it can handle more power than a 302 block. If you go 347, and are planning on adding a power adder later, the stock block is going to pushed to the limit. So, you might want to look into one of the aftermarket blocks for the 302, if you go that route.

well i did some reasearch and i found out that i will need a 26 spline clutch disc witch i found a kit on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPEC-STAGE-3-TKO-FORD-MUSTANG-GT-CLUTCH-TKO483_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33733QQitemZ8010 266731QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
and a 3.5 drive shaft that is 45.5 and that is it.

just a esimate how much hp do you think ill be making with the 393 with this setup
this block and these people bilding the all the internals. http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_393w.htm
kB dished pistons
H-beam super racing rods
twisted edge at 58cc 9.0:0.
TFS Stage 2
Trick Flow 351 intake manfold
TKo 600 Trans
75 mm tb and egr
60lb injectors,
bbk mustang 351 swap headers shortys
bbk X pipe with flow masters no cadalic converter.
msd 6++ inition and blaster coil
aluminum radiator
75mm mass air flow meter
A1800 fuel pump and fuel kit off of summit
80mm mass air meater
Stage 3 clutch
and all the other odds and ends

60lbs? why?

What is going to control your ECU?

Also, I could not find on there where a 58cc head = 9:1? If that is the case, that is a good set up for boost applications, but if your not running boost the 60lbs injectors will kill your engine.

To answer your question, around 425lbs,425hp(ballpark) with a good tune. Drop down to 42lbs, if your gonna stay N/A, I would also increase your comp ratio to at least 10.5:1, that would put you around 500/500 then.

yeah my bad that is what i ment 9:1, as for the fuel injectores i will eventully be boosting it, how will it kill my engine, i found a set of 60lb for like 400, if i use a fuel pressure regulator cant i turn down the fuel pressure. and what do you mean comp ratio to at least 10.5:1 how would i do that,

how is it that the power i mean, i just read in the muscle mustangs and fast fords they bilt a 347 with
3.40 stroker crank
forged pro i beams measuring 5.40
forged flat top pistons
7 quart oil pan
a fps cam with 0565/.569 lift split and a 224/234 duration split on a 112 degree lobe seprations angle
fps avenger heads 206c intake ports flows 276cfm 62c combustions chamber with 9.9:1 compression ratio
750cfm four barrel carb
they tell you ecactly how to bild it and it made 429hp at 6,000 and 425lb at 5,000rpm
and that was on 87 octane fuel
i just thought an extra 46 cubis would make a little more power.

hears the 42lb
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Racing-Bosch-42lb-hr-42-lb-Fuel-Injectors-8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38634QQitemZ801086439 8QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
hears the 60lb
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SIEMANS-60LB-INJECTORS-MUSTANG-CAMARO-LT1-LS1-8-NIB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQitemZ8011034 562QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

how is it that the power i mean, i just read in the muscle mustangs and fast fords they bilt a 347 with
3.40 stroker crank
forged pro i beams measuring 5.40
forged flat top pistons
7 quart oil pan
a fps cam with 0565/.569 lift split and a 224/234 duration split on a 112 degree lobe seprations angle
fps avenger heads 206c intake ports flows 276cfm 62c combustions chamber with 9.9:1 compression ratio
750cfm four barrel carb
they tell you ecactly how to bild it and it made 429hp at 6,000 and 425lb at 5,000rpm
and that was on 87 octane fuel
i just thought an extra 46 cubis would make a little more power.

That is at 9.9:1, there is the difference. And they have a bigger cam than you.

should i get a diffent cam then, also should i go rollers or flat top, and what about rocker arms, any suggestions.

Just run some 1.7s then it will be bigger.

Cam Style:Hydraulic roller tappetBasic Operating RPM Range:2,500-6,000 RPMIntake Duration 050 inch Lift:224Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift:232Duration at 050 inch Lift:224 int./232 exh.Advertised Intake Duration:286Advertised Exhaust Duration:294Advertised Duration:286 int./294 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.542Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.563Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.542 int./0.563 exh. liftLobe Separation (degrees):112

Which block are you going to use?

Exctra cubes can actually give you less HP.

Since you don't care about the cars streetability, go with the biggest cam you can get. CHP is going to be installing the cam for you right? They will take care care of the PTV clearances. If your buying from them, they should be able to answer all your questions.

Don't wrapped up in numbers, they don't mean squat :D What the car can put on the ground, is where its at.

ic, im going to go with the 392

ok so your telling me that is what would be a good choice in cam, now were would i start to look for the cam you discribed.

That is the TFS cam specs

Which short block or long block are you getting from CHP? There are 3 on that page.

with the 393W Street Fighter-Pro Street with out the heads tho. should i get the Blower Dish pistons, also i just took apart my 302 in my car and when i got to the rollers they are in good condition could i use them in the 393 or do i have to get new ones, same with the timeing chain, i can see the timeing chain not working its like this one the gear ones
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=+-58965+-59014+-42367
also back to the clutch thing, what clutch will handle like 500hp to 600hp the only ones i can find that handle that much are the stage 3 to stage4 clutchs, and the cam is there a better one i could get, i mean i know what all the numbers are and do and how its the opening and closing of the valvs and stuff, but i dont understand how or witch numbers are better for my apliction, thanks.

like what numbers do you recomend for the cam

like what numbers do you recomend for the cam

Talk to Cammotion, Comp, Crane, ect.

Talk to Cammotion, Comp, Crane, ect.

They will all give you different cam profiles for what you want, strange but true ;)

which numbers are better for my apliction, thanks.

There is no such thing as which is better. Its all give and take when it comes to cams. Too much cam, and your car is a dog on the street, but will have lots a high end HP. Look at other combos around the net, and see what you like, but you should only look at the engines with the same displacement.

ok i will call them, and what about the clutch and timeing gears

what about the timeing gears and lifters

Is it a roller block?

I thought all that would come with the engine.

not if i get a short block, i have no idea its a stock 302 but the timing gears and lifters are in realy good condition.

302? Aren't you getting the 393? Ask them!

302? Aren't you getting the 393? Ask them!


:lol2: You have the patience of a saint.

Its getting thin :)

Hey Pimp, look in your magazines and look for an ad for Anderson Ford, they are in Clinton, Illinois. Ask for Ford performance. Tell them what your ultimate goal with this car is and they can help. Sorry Pimp I don't mean to start this again...however....What is your experiance with cars? What mods do you have on your Mustang now or any in the past? I agree with the guys, it sounds like you're swinging for the fences but insted of having a baseball bat it sounds like you have a wiffle bat. I have only done the basic bolt-on stuff to my Mustangs, you know exhaust, pulleys, air inlet (K&N), plugs/wires. I wanted to do more, just never got around to it before I sold my car. Most of the stuff GT stang was talking about I understand, but then some of the parts he was talking about I have no idea. With the basic stuff done to my 92 5.0 it was probably pushing around 275hp. That was plenty of power! If you can get 400hp in a Fox body Mustang, that should be one fast car! Hell even 300-350 with some bolt-on stuff in a Fox body is one fast car. I'm not telling you what to do but I guess we are all wondering what kind of experiance you have with cars, not to mention high horsepower cars. Also is this car a daily driver or just for the track? Start off small, do one thing at a time, and go from there. What if you get this car built and it has 600hp but you can't stand to drive it on the street. Then all that work and $$$$$$$ is wasted. ONE THING TO REMEMBER IS....IT'S NOT HOW MUCH POWER THE CAR CAN PRODUCE IN THE 1/4 MILE BUT HOW QUICK THE CAR IS IN THE 1/4 MILE. You could have 600hp but get beat all day by a car that has 400hp. You have to have parts that work together not just the best of everything. Good luck man.

no im getting the 393 short block i was woundering if my 302, off of my stock car engine right now, if the timeing gears and lifter would work on the 393, the timeing gears are like thease ones
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...5+-59014+-42367

i dont have any experience on major stuff, but miner on bolt on stuff, but im a person that can put any thing together, i know for a fact that i could do this, i just need to know the best parts that i could get and would give me the best performance, its going to be mabey a weekend driver in the summer, to car showes. It will also be a track car so performance is a must. Lets put it this way im a fricking computer dork i sit in my room and tinker with my computer taking it apart and making it faster, ive always ben able to take stuff apart and rebild it again, and like i said my stock 302 is no thing more then a block and pistons and a crank shaft, and i know i could put it back together and make it work, that is just the way i am, so if i could have a compleat list of part and specs that would be great, and at the end of winter i will post pics and vidoes of the car and being fast.