horseshat
88B18aHB
05-22-2002, 09:32 PM
man this autometer oil presure gauge is been a pain what should the normal reading be i'm getting 0 psi at idle which doesn't seem right an then when driving it goe's to 25 an hits 50psi then jumps back down to 25 an stay's there pretty much there need some help on this one :bloated:
Moppie
05-23-2002, 01:10 AM
A reading of zero it idle is quite alright, and quite normal.
There are very few guages acurate enough to measure the very low oil pressure that should be at idle.
Approaching redline getting about 50psi is very good, any more can begin to damage the engine. (unless its a B16a) then about 60 is good.
25psi sounds about right for just crusing at a few thousand rpm.
But you do need to discribe your problem with a little more detail.
How quickly does it the guage jump around? does the pressure go up and down to match the revs of the car, or is just jumping around randomly?
And what sort of Guage is it? Is it an electronic one and use the standard sender unit on the block, or does it have an oil line run into the back of the guage.
There are very few guages acurate enough to measure the very low oil pressure that should be at idle.
Approaching redline getting about 50psi is very good, any more can begin to damage the engine. (unless its a B16a) then about 60 is good.
25psi sounds about right for just crusing at a few thousand rpm.
But you do need to discribe your problem with a little more detail.
How quickly does it the guage jump around? does the pressure go up and down to match the revs of the car, or is just jumping around randomly?
And what sort of Guage is it? Is it an electronic one and use the standard sender unit on the block, or does it have an oil line run into the back of the guage.
88B18aHB
05-23-2002, 06:22 AM
thanks moppie it's a autometer electronic doesnt jump alot when i first start the car it sits on 0 then when i drive it will rise to 50 if i gun it but soon as it goes to 50 it will jump back to 25 an stay there pretty much i downshift into a lower gear to shot my rpm up an that really didnt do anything either just pretty much chills on 25 give or take a few so this is right?
also with the sender from auto meter soon as i installed that my oil light came on an wont go out what is the best way to fix that?
:bloated:
also with the sender from auto meter soon as i installed that my oil light came on an wont go out what is the best way to fix that?
:bloated:
sastanley
05-23-2002, 09:28 AM
Originally posted by 88B18aHB
also with the sender from auto meter soon as i installed that my oil light came on an wont go out what is the best way to fix that?
:bloated:
Dude...did u remove the sensor for the oil light when you installed the new gauge? If so, that will cause the oil light to come on. Below is a link on how to install both. I like this idea and plan to use it when I put my ZC in. - HTH
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/
also with the sender from auto meter soon as i installed that my oil light came on an wont go out what is the best way to fix that?
:bloated:
Dude...did u remove the sensor for the oil light when you installed the new gauge? If so, that will cause the oil light to come on. Below is a link on how to install both. I like this idea and plan to use it when I put my ZC in. - HTH
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/
88B18aHB
05-23-2002, 03:24 PM
yeah u half to remove the stock one an replace it with the one that came with the gauge
i just think it suck's autometer should of found away to use there oil sender without causing the oil light to come on
i just think it suck's autometer should of found away to use there oil sender without causing the oil light to come on
Moppie
05-24-2002, 02:27 AM
I find it strange that auto meter wants you to use thier own sender.
But even so, you can simply make a T section and stick your orginal oil sender on one end, and the Autometer on on the other.
This will mean you can have the factory oil light working, as well as the Autometer guage.
Oil pressure guages are never very acurate, and will certianly jump around a lot.
Oil pressure in your engine is governed by engine speed, engine temp, relife valve pressure, and of course how worn the engine is.
So with all of that happening you can expect your oil pressure to be raising and falling all the time.
An electronic sender unit will never be able to keep up with sudden changes, and is really only good for monitering pressure at a constant RPM.
Your guage should hold a steady pressure at a steedy RPM. And it should show progesivly more pressure as you increase the RPM. (go in 1,000rpm increacments)
If its still reading 25psi at 5,000rpm then you have either a major problem with your engine, or a problem with either the gauge or the sender.
Since your not complaining about odd knocking noises indicating run bearings my guess would be theres a fault with either the sender or the guage.
Start by checking your install thoughraly. Check all the wiring, and make sure you have used a good Earth, and wired it all up correctly.
And prehaps pull the sender out and compare it with the factory one. Make sure it sits in the block the same distance, and oil hole in the end is clear from crap.
If all that fails then get hold of Autometter and find whats required to send it back and get another one. :)
But even so, you can simply make a T section and stick your orginal oil sender on one end, and the Autometer on on the other.
This will mean you can have the factory oil light working, as well as the Autometer guage.
Oil pressure guages are never very acurate, and will certianly jump around a lot.
Oil pressure in your engine is governed by engine speed, engine temp, relife valve pressure, and of course how worn the engine is.
So with all of that happening you can expect your oil pressure to be raising and falling all the time.
An electronic sender unit will never be able to keep up with sudden changes, and is really only good for monitering pressure at a constant RPM.
Your guage should hold a steady pressure at a steedy RPM. And it should show progesivly more pressure as you increase the RPM. (go in 1,000rpm increacments)
If its still reading 25psi at 5,000rpm then you have either a major problem with your engine, or a problem with either the gauge or the sender.
Since your not complaining about odd knocking noises indicating run bearings my guess would be theres a fault with either the sender or the guage.
Start by checking your install thoughraly. Check all the wiring, and make sure you have used a good Earth, and wired it all up correctly.
And prehaps pull the sender out and compare it with the factory one. Make sure it sits in the block the same distance, and oil hole in the end is clear from crap.
If all that fails then get hold of Autometter and find whats required to send it back and get another one. :)
sastanley
05-24-2002, 11:21 AM
If you check out that link above from my previous post, it has some instructions on how to "T" both senders safely so that your gauge and your idiot light both work.
My old '78 Civic would run about 25 PSI at idle and 55 at highway speed (anything over 1,500 RPM) - When oil is cold the pressure will be higher and it goes down a little as it warms up and thins out.
I hope the Autometer gauge isn't crappy, because I just ordered one yesterday :-\
My old '78 Civic would run about 25 PSI at idle and 55 at highway speed (anything over 1,500 RPM) - When oil is cold the pressure will be higher and it goes down a little as it warms up and thins out.
I hope the Autometer gauge isn't crappy, because I just ordered one yesterday :-\
88B18aHB
05-24-2002, 02:49 PM
thanks that was very helpful im bout to hook up this t section an check my grounds i think that might be a prolbrem
my thing is if autometer knows u need a t section to run the gauge right why dont they include that in the package to me thats like giving me the gauge with no sender unit or at least write it in the intructions.
my thing is if autometer knows u need a t section to run the gauge right why dont they include that in the package to me thats like giving me the gauge with no sender unit or at least write it in the intructions.
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