here we go......

Just bought a 93 Civic Hatch DX. I've been doing a little research, the K20 is too damn expensive right now for me, and the idea of putting an h22 in my car doesn't sound very appealing, to me at least. I've heard so many different things regarding 16's and b18's. I'm a mechanic and I am just now getting into the whole sport compact scene. I know the basics on engine swaps and compression,etc. I've never messed around with turbos on any of my vehicles and i would definetly like to do something with one... which is the best head and block to get the best compression for a turbo? I heard a guy at work talking about a C1 or a C2 block, and i have no idea what that is. Anyone mind walking me through the basics on engine internals and compression on civics, and what the most effective swap is? Also, are the performance blocks that you can order online really worth it or could i just buy a stock block and redo the internals? I saw in a magazine someone getting 500 hp out of a stock block and if i can go higher than that with a performance block I might consider it...

Thanks Fellas

You should read this first if you haven't already: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=19176 It really depends on what kind of power you're looking for and how much you're willing to spend. If you want to go full on, sleeve the block, pistons, and rods. I'd say forget about the b16a and jump to any of the b18's or even the b20 (CRV engine, which is a bored out LS[b18b] block). The b18b1 (from an Integra LS, GS, and RS) is a good engine because it comes with lower compression, but doesn't come with a vtec head. You can also buy a kit from Golden Eagle, where you can mate a vtec head onto the block. The B20 is also good, especialy for torque, but will need to be sleeved if you add aftermarket pistons (sleeves are made of different material than the other B-series engines). The C1 you heard about is the b18c1, it's the engine found in the Acura Integra GS-R. But for the head I'd recommend the b18c5, the Integra Type R. It comes with a mild P&P and more aggressive cams than the c1. When people build an engine for turbo, most of the time they go for lower compression pistons. But if you want a ton of power, higher compression would be better (but would need a much better tune for safety). Those premade performance blocks are not worth it. You could build a better block for cheaper and have more power. It's hard to believe that anyone was making 500hp on a stock block, it had to have had built internals. The rods would have snapped like chicken wings, even some aftermarket rods would have been maxed out (or close to it). If you're looking for around 500hp, then when it's all built and bought; it will cost almost as much as a K20 swap.

for turbo people usually use the b18c1 but i heard that a well built ls/vtec n crv-tec's are monsters but they have to be built perfectly or the engine ends up blowin up

i'd go with the k20 now just a suggestion..

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=400333+312760&autoview=sku

I've heard these aftermarket blocks are built to last

For more than 2G's that bastard better last...

Don't think that even comes with a head, so it's a rip off. If it came with the head, it wouldn't be that bad of a price. But it could be built for cheaper (and actually have a head).

Okay, I'll cover the motors you mentioned or eluded to first...

*B18C1- this is a GSR motor. This is a USDM motor. There was a B18C4 in Europe, this was the same as the B18C1. It came in a 1.8 civic. 1797cc. It has a power output of 170hp @7600rpm and 128ft-lbs @6200rpm. 10.0:1 c/r. 8100rpm redline. Came both OBD-I and OBD-II

*B18B1 - This is a motor out of an Integra LS, GS, or RS. 1834cc. Non-Vtec. It has a power output of 142hp @ 6300rpm and 127 ft-lbs of torque @5200rpm. 9.2:1 c /r. It came both OBD-I and OBD-II. The OBD-I version had 2 more hp, 142 vs 140. Rod-Stroke ratio of 1.54

*B18A1 - This motor is from non-vtec 90-93 Integras. 1834cc. 90-91 B18A1: 130HP, 121 ft/lbs of torque. 92-93 B18A1: 140HP, 127 ft/lbs of torque. 9.2:1 c/r. non-OBD and OBD-I. All B18A1's uses a cable tranny and mechanical speedo, versus a hydro tranny and electronic speedo like the B18B1.

*1st Gen JDM B16A/ European B16A1 - This motor is same output for both. It either came in an 88-91 JDM car (B16A) or a 1.6/Vti in Europe (B16A1). 1595cc. It has a power output of 158hp @7600 and 111ft-lbs of torque @ 7000rpm. 10.2:1 c/r. This is a non-OBD motor. Rod-Stroke ratio of 1.74

*USDM B16A2/3 - This is a USDM B16A. The B16A2 came in the OBD-II Del Sol Vtec and came in the 99-00 Civic Si. The B16A3 came in the OBD-I Del Sol Vtec. 1595cc. It has a power output of 160hp @7600 and 111ft-lbs of torque @ 7000rpm. 10.2:1 c/r. This motor was OBD-I and OBD-II. Rod-Stroke ratio of 1.74

*2nd Gen JDM B16A - this motor is a JDM B16A, from 92+ JDM cars. 1595cc. It has a power output of 168hp @7800 and 116 ft-lbs of torque @ 7300 RPM. 10.4:1 c/r. 8500 rpm redline. Came OBD-I and OBD-II. Rod-Stroke ratio of 1.74.

*JDM B18C, Integra Type-R - Has a Red Valve cover. 10.6:1 c/r

*JDM B18C, SiR - Has a Black Valve cover. 1797cc. It has a power output of 176 HP @ 7600 rpm and 129 lbs-ft of torque @ 6200 rpm. 10.6:1 c/r. OBD-I and OBD-II.

*B18C5 - USDM Type-R motor. 1797cc. 195hp @ 8000 rpm and 130 ft-lbs or torque @ 7500 rpm. 10.6:1 c/r. OBD-II

*B20B: USDM 97-98 CR-V. 126hp @ 5400rpm and 133 ft-lbs of torque @ 4300rpm. 8.8:1 c/r. You can throw LS cams into this motor to bump the power output up a bit.

*JDM B20Z: came in 99+ JDM CR-V's with the B series in them. 146hp @ 6200rpm and 133 ft-lbs of torque @ 4500rpm. 9.6:1 JDM SMX, 10.2:1 JDM CRV (99-01).

*I'll cover frankinstein motors quick.

You can also do a LS/Vtec or CR-Vtec. This is where you put a B16A/B18C1/B18C/B18C5 head onto an LS block or CR-V block. You get the added torque and displacement of those motors and the upper-end vtec power of the vtec head. The B16A head flows better than the B18C1 head by 5.25%.

When you put a Vtec head on the B20 Block, there isn't a lot of piston to vavle clearence. The Vtec heads have larger 33mm Intake valves vs the B20's 31 mm valves. When Dyno tuning, contact will occur between the pistons and valves if the cam is advanced much more than 4 degree's. It's advisable to not advance the timing of the Intake Cam at all. Also, with the B20's, remember the B20B (97-98 CRV) is the low compression one (8.8:1). The B20Z (99-01 CRV) has a much higher c/r (I've seen both 9.6:1 for the JDM SMX and 10.2:1 for the 99+CRV listed).

Also, with cams, if you run larger lift and duration aftermark cams on a CR-Vtec, the piston's valve pockets should be modified and the piston to valve clearence checked before the head is final and attached onto the block. Also, the B20 sleeves have been know to crack under the high compression caused by boost. Remember, a B20 is basically a bored out B18B1 block. That thins the sleeves a bit. Re-sleeve it and close the deck, and your good to go in that sense. The LS block can handle more boost stock than the CRV block (the LS can handle 12psi on stock internals, more than the other motors, where 8psi is usually the limit).

Now, for transmission gear ratios, check out this site
http://www.allmotorhonda.com/techpages/B-series_Tranny_specs.htm

This covers all types of Honda Trannys, lists what cars they came in, and gives ALL the gear ratios.

I wouldn't bother buying a Dart Block and Head. Overpriced if you ask me, so are the new Honda Crate motors. Price it too high. The Dart blocks though are stock, and come bascially already re-sleeved and with a closed deck, etc, and their heads are bascially a brand new stock B18C1 head that is CNC port and polished to their specs. Remember that Dart blocks arn't sanctioned for use if you are going to drag race in a circut. The NHRA requires OEM blocls, though you can re-build them and bulletproof them.

If you are serious about boost, you'll want to build up the motor. You'll want to re-sleeve it and close the deck. Darton, AEBS, Benson Performance Machining and Golden Eagle all are reputable when it comes to clsoing the deck and re-sleeving a block. As for pistons, Arias, Weisco, and JE Pistons are all reputable. Look for some low compresion ratio pistons. Arias has some nice ones. As for the rods, I perfer the I-beam design over the cheaper H-beam design. Strong rods. Crower makes some killer 4340 steel billet I-Beam connecting rods. I also like crower for valves, springs and retainers, though Ferrera is not a bad choice either. For cams, crower makes so killer turbo cams also.

As for Engine Management, I suggest Hondata with Boost control for your turbo'd motor.

Here are some sites you can check out for parts...

AEBS
http://www.aebsracing.com/main.pl

Darton Sleeves
http://www.dartonsleeves.com/

Crower
http://www.crower.com/

JE Pistons
http://www.jepistons.com/

Hondata
http://www.hondata.com/