Power Locks
B33p3r
10-21-2005, 10:11 PM
This is an issue I just experienced on my 98 Explorer 4.0 SOHC and thought I'd post the fix.
Scenario is the drivers and passenger door lock button will not lock doors. The unlock buttons work fine. The remote lock does not lock the doors but does set the alarm and it's unlock works fine. The door lock button back by the hatch locks and unlocks the doors fine.
Solution: There is a wire splice in a cable tray just inside the rear driver side door. Remove the trim piece that also extends across the drivers door and pull back the carpeting. Pull open the plastic cable tray. There are 4 pink/yellow wires factory spliced in this tray. One is the 12 volts from the lock relay mounted in 1/4 panel where the jack is stored. Another comes goes to the RAP module in the same location. One goes to the passenger door lock switch and the last one goes to the drivers lock switch. The factory splice was corroded and the door lock wires were no longer making a connection. Obviousl the RAP module wire was still connected because the alarm still worked.
The hatch lock switch is a seperate wire out of the same relay contact so it still worked.
The unlock function is a seperate circuit of another contact.
Hope this saves someone some time some day.
Scenario is the drivers and passenger door lock button will not lock doors. The unlock buttons work fine. The remote lock does not lock the doors but does set the alarm and it's unlock works fine. The door lock button back by the hatch locks and unlocks the doors fine.
Solution: There is a wire splice in a cable tray just inside the rear driver side door. Remove the trim piece that also extends across the drivers door and pull back the carpeting. Pull open the plastic cable tray. There are 4 pink/yellow wires factory spliced in this tray. One is the 12 volts from the lock relay mounted in 1/4 panel where the jack is stored. Another comes goes to the RAP module in the same location. One goes to the passenger door lock switch and the last one goes to the drivers lock switch. The factory splice was corroded and the door lock wires were no longer making a connection. Obviousl the RAP module wire was still connected because the alarm still worked.
The hatch lock switch is a seperate wire out of the same relay contact so it still worked.
The unlock function is a seperate circuit of another contact.
Hope this saves someone some time some day.
ahnold2
11-15-2005, 11:49 PM
This was exactly the probelm I was seeing with my 97 Explorer. Thanks for taking the time to post this. You just saved me a big repair bill at the local Ford dealer. Thank you, thnak you, thank you!!!
B33p3r
11-16-2005, 09:38 PM
Seeing one person save time and money just made the whole thing worth while. Thanks for posting back.
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