yikes dont know 84 ranger
seniorcrzy70
10-17-2005, 10:58 PM
ok firing order i assume is 142536 with 1 being left fron spark plug and 6 right rear for 2.8/2.9 v6 ford ranger i replaced upper timing gear and lined dot up with lower gear dot wont start gas is there great spark dont get it engine is cranking distributor is turning any ideas ???
Psychopete
10-18-2005, 11:45 AM
ok firing order i assume is 142536 with 1 being left fron spark plug and 6 right rear for 2.8/2.9 v6 ford ranger i replaced upper timing gear and lined dot up with lower gear dot wont start gas is there great spark dont get it engine is cranking distributor is turning any ideas ???
2.8L? The firing order looks correct for a 2.9L. I really don't know a whole lot about the 2.8L, but I do know the cam operates in the opposite direction. The reason is that the 2.9L has a timing chain, and the 2.8L has 2 big direct drive gears. Maybe the wires need reversed? I would double check the diagram.
And the cam/crank dots were lined up face to face? Cam dot down, crank dot up?
Are you getting anything at all? If it were 180 off, you would get a pop out of the exhaust about 5-6 cranks in, engine dry.
Pete
2.8L? The firing order looks correct for a 2.9L. I really don't know a whole lot about the 2.8L, but I do know the cam operates in the opposite direction. The reason is that the 2.9L has a timing chain, and the 2.8L has 2 big direct drive gears. Maybe the wires need reversed? I would double check the diagram.
And the cam/crank dots were lined up face to face? Cam dot down, crank dot up?
Are you getting anything at all? If it were 180 off, you would get a pop out of the exhaust about 5-6 cranks in, engine dry.
Pete
seniorcrzy70
10-18-2005, 11:53 AM
ok firing order i assume is 142536 with 1 being left fron spark plug and 6 right rear for 2.8/2.9 v6 ford ranger i replaced upper timing gear and lined dot up with lower gear dot wont start gas is there great spark dont get it engine is cranking distributor is turning any ideas ???
well i put the upper gear on and dot was at about 1o'clock so i lined up the lower gear with ratchet turning it to 1 o'clock probably my problem ehh my dads truck and hes disabled vet so ive done chains and belts before swapped engines and trans just probably made error on aligning dots ehh?
well i put the upper gear on and dot was at about 1o'clock so i lined up the lower gear with ratchet turning it to 1 o'clock probably my problem ehh my dads truck and hes disabled vet so ive done chains and belts before swapped engines and trans just probably made error on aligning dots ehh?
Psychopete
10-19-2005, 12:39 PM
well i put the upper gear on and dot was at about 1o'clock so i lined up the lower gear with ratchet turning it to 1 o'clock probably my problem ehh my dads truck and hes disabled vet so ive done chains and belts before swapped engines and trans just probably made error on aligning dots ehh?
That would suck man, but I did a little math to figure out where the cam timing probably is. Sorry, the pic sucks, but it a good figure. Please let me know if I screwed something up in the calculations. We all make mistakes :).
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/823000-823999/823081_13_full.gif
To get to where we need to be, I moved the cam dot 150 degrees 180-(n*(360/12)) = 150 (n=1)
Since the crank turns 2 times per 1 cam revolution, I multiplied to get the crankshaft movement 150*2 = 300
We move the crank 180 degrees and that leaves on the seven o'clock position with 120 degrees remaining which leaves us on the 11 o'clock position. (120/(360/12))+7 = 11
Now, I am pretty sure this is correct (Been busy today). We move another 60 degrees on the crankshaft and end up back in our 1 o'clock position. ((360-300)/(360/12))+11 = 13 (1 o'clock again)
You may want to recheck, it looks right on paper, but it may not actually reflect what's there.
There a way to check the intake valve on #1 with a dial indicator to make sure the cam timing is right, but that's something you would need to look into. I am not sure when the intake valve is suppose to open on that, but it begins to open right before the piston is @ the T.C. position.
Pete
That would suck man, but I did a little math to figure out where the cam timing probably is. Sorry, the pic sucks, but it a good figure. Please let me know if I screwed something up in the calculations. We all make mistakes :).
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/823000-823999/823081_13_full.gif
To get to where we need to be, I moved the cam dot 150 degrees 180-(n*(360/12)) = 150 (n=1)
Since the crank turns 2 times per 1 cam revolution, I multiplied to get the crankshaft movement 150*2 = 300
We move the crank 180 degrees and that leaves on the seven o'clock position with 120 degrees remaining which leaves us on the 11 o'clock position. (120/(360/12))+7 = 11
Now, I am pretty sure this is correct (Been busy today). We move another 60 degrees on the crankshaft and end up back in our 1 o'clock position. ((360-300)/(360/12))+11 = 13 (1 o'clock again)
You may want to recheck, it looks right on paper, but it may not actually reflect what's there.
There a way to check the intake valve on #1 with a dial indicator to make sure the cam timing is right, but that's something you would need to look into. I am not sure when the intake valve is suppose to open on that, but it begins to open right before the piston is @ the T.C. position.
Pete
seniorcrzy70
10-20-2005, 12:52 PM
well i put the upper gear on and dot was at about 1o'clock so i lined up the lower gear with ratchet turning it to 1 o'clock probably my problem ehh my dads truck and hes disabled vet so ive done chains and belts before swapped engines and trans just probably made error on aligning dots ehh?
well thx again my knee blew out but we shall see gave couple days rest on it going to tear her down again see what happens thanks for all the info hopefully i will get it this time will keep ya posted
well thx again my knee blew out but we shall see gave couple days rest on it going to tear her down again see what happens thanks for all the info hopefully i will get it this time will keep ya posted
seniorcrzy70
11-02-2005, 04:23 PM
well thx again my knee blew out but we shall see gave couple days rest on it going to tear her down again see what happens thanks for all the info hopefully i will get it this time will keep ya posted
hey finally got it together that was right got firing order put new plug wires in and fired right up only thing looks like the seal for crankshaft is bad ugh just when i thought i was done the other thing is i did oil change as well and where it is leaking the oil is creamy which obviously means water in there i know all the timing cover gaskets are sealed just not sure on this one so we shall see thanks for help
hey finally got it together that was right got firing order put new plug wires in and fired right up only thing looks like the seal for crankshaft is bad ugh just when i thought i was done the other thing is i did oil change as well and where it is leaking the oil is creamy which obviously means water in there i know all the timing cover gaskets are sealed just not sure on this one so we shall see thanks for help
Psychopete
11-03-2005, 10:51 AM
Ah man. That's awful. :(
The front seal or the rear main seal? Rear seal is a major pain. I've never really had the oppertunity to deal with a 2.8L, so I really cannot think of a good cause to where/why that might be leaking. Could it have been a problem before the work was done?
Sounds like there was quite a bit of water in there. I had a lower intake manifold gasket leak on me once because of a machine shop error, and there really wasn't too much water getting into my oil. To loose that much water that quickly is making me think that it's possibly something else. Possibly something over time. Do you have or have access to a compression tester (leak down tester for best results) and/or a cooling system pressure tester? I think it may be a good idea at this point to find the source of the leak, then repair it. It sounds like you already know the effects of water in the oil - fried bearings. Though, I had a 2.9L with a cracked head for 6 months. Oil pump eventually went, all down hill from there.
Pete
The front seal or the rear main seal? Rear seal is a major pain. I've never really had the oppertunity to deal with a 2.8L, so I really cannot think of a good cause to where/why that might be leaking. Could it have been a problem before the work was done?
Sounds like there was quite a bit of water in there. I had a lower intake manifold gasket leak on me once because of a machine shop error, and there really wasn't too much water getting into my oil. To loose that much water that quickly is making me think that it's possibly something else. Possibly something over time. Do you have or have access to a compression tester (leak down tester for best results) and/or a cooling system pressure tester? I think it may be a good idea at this point to find the source of the leak, then repair it. It sounds like you already know the effects of water in the oil - fried bearings. Though, I had a 2.9L with a cracked head for 6 months. Oil pump eventually went, all down hill from there.
Pete
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