95 Grand Am Bad Idle
MCYTWO
10-17-2005, 06:42 PM
Engine Suddenly Began To Shake Violently And No Power While Driving As Well As Stopped. Checked:spark-crankshaft Sensor-fuel Pressure Regulator-compression-fuel Filter-o2 Sensor-knock Sensor-map Sensor-evaporative Fuel System -fuel Injectors All Were Ok. Replaced-fuel Filter-fuel Pump-spark Plugs-fuel Pressure Regulator And Problem Still Exists. No Engine Codes Were Displayed Or Found. 88000 Miles No Past Problems
skibum1111
10-17-2005, 07:35 PM
Welcome. Did you check your oil and coolant? Did you check the ignition module and the coils? You could have a failing ignition control module, its located under the cover with the coils, autozone can test it unless you live in california (something to do with liability). Also, did you check your throttle position sensor?
MCYTWO
10-18-2005, 11:02 AM
Welcome. Did you check your oil and coolant? Did you check the ignition module and the coils? You could have a failing ignition control module, its located under the cover with the coils, autozone can test it unless you live in california (something to do with liability). Also, did you check your throttle position sensor?
OIL - COOLANT AND THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR OK, WILL HAVE MODULE CHECKED.
OIL - COOLANT AND THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR OK, WILL HAVE MODULE CHECKED.
gmack221
10-18-2005, 11:33 AM
Sounds like you have a quad 4, 2.3L
Probably easier to just check for spark on all 4 cylinders, easiest way is to remove the coil housing cover, plug it back in upside down, use a spark tester and 4 regular plug wires, hook 3 wires from coil housing to plugs, hook 4th to spark tester and coil. Now check all of the cylinders. If you have spark on 2 of the 4 its probably a bad coil (1&3 are on one coil, 2&4 on the other). If your not getting spark on 1 cylinder its most likely a coil housing problem. Sounds like your getting spark on atleast one of the cylinders, but if you get no spark you should have your ignition control module tested.
Probably easier to just check for spark on all 4 cylinders, easiest way is to remove the coil housing cover, plug it back in upside down, use a spark tester and 4 regular plug wires, hook 3 wires from coil housing to plugs, hook 4th to spark tester and coil. Now check all of the cylinders. If you have spark on 2 of the 4 its probably a bad coil (1&3 are on one coil, 2&4 on the other). If your not getting spark on 1 cylinder its most likely a coil housing problem. Sounds like your getting spark on atleast one of the cylinders, but if you get no spark you should have your ignition control module tested.
phantomracerGA95
10-18-2005, 04:49 PM
also try to check the fuel injectors...they might be plugged up with something. I had the same problem with my 95 3.1 and ran through the whole ignition system to find out that my girlfriend ran it outta gas and plugged up the whole fuel system. Check the fuel filter also. Hope this helps
MCYTWO
10-19-2005, 11:49 AM
Welcome. Did you check your oil and coolant? Did you check the ignition module and the coils? You could have a failing ignition control module, its located under the cover with the coils, autozone can test it unless you live in california (something to do with liability). Also, did you check your throttle position sensor?
OIL AND COOLANT ARE FINE. IGNITION MODULE CHECKED YESTERDAY AT AUTO ZONE AND WORKING FINE.
OIL AND COOLANT ARE FINE. IGNITION MODULE CHECKED YESTERDAY AT AUTO ZONE AND WORKING FINE.
MCYTWO
10-19-2005, 11:52 AM
Sounds like you have a quad 4, 2.3L
Probably easier to just check for spark on all 4 cylinders, easiest way is to remove the coil housing cover, plug it back in upside down, use a spark tester and 4 regular plug wires, hook 3 wires from coil housing to plugs, hook 4th to spark tester and coil. Now check all of the cylinders. If you have spark on 2 of the 4 its probably a bad coil (1&3 are on one coil, 2&4 on the other). If your not getting spark on 1 cylinder its most likely a coil housing problem. Sounds like your getting spark on atleast one of the cylinders, but if you get no spark you should have your ignition control module tested.
ALL FOUR PLUGS SPARKING FINE. IGNITION MODULE CHECKED AT AUTO ZONE AND WORKING FINE.
Probably easier to just check for spark on all 4 cylinders, easiest way is to remove the coil housing cover, plug it back in upside down, use a spark tester and 4 regular plug wires, hook 3 wires from coil housing to plugs, hook 4th to spark tester and coil. Now check all of the cylinders. If you have spark on 2 of the 4 its probably a bad coil (1&3 are on one coil, 2&4 on the other). If your not getting spark on 1 cylinder its most likely a coil housing problem. Sounds like your getting spark on atleast one of the cylinders, but if you get no spark you should have your ignition control module tested.
ALL FOUR PLUGS SPARKING FINE. IGNITION MODULE CHECKED AT AUTO ZONE AND WORKING FINE.
MCYTWO
10-19-2005, 11:54 AM
also try to check the fuel injectors...they might be plugged up with something. I had the same problem with my 95 3.1 and ran through the whole ignition system to find out that my girlfriend ran it outta gas and plugged up the whole fuel system. Check the fuel filter also. Hope this helps
FUEL FILTER REMOVED AND CLEAN - ALSO INJECTORS APPEAR TO BE FINE. PROPER OHM READING AND NONE ARE LEAKING. NEED TO KNOW HOW TO HOOK UP FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE, NO SCHRADER VALVE ON THIS ENGINE.
FUEL FILTER REMOVED AND CLEAN - ALSO INJECTORS APPEAR TO BE FINE. PROPER OHM READING AND NONE ARE LEAKING. NEED TO KNOW HOW TO HOOK UP FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE, NO SCHRADER VALVE ON THIS ENGINE.
MCYTWO
10-19-2005, 11:56 AM
also try to check the fuel injectors...they might be plugged up with something. I had the same problem with my 95 3.1 and ran through the whole ignition system to find out that my girlfriend ran it outta gas and plugged up the whole fuel system. Check the fuel filter also. Hope this helps
FUEL INJECTORS APPEAR TO BE FINE. PROPER OHM READING AND NONE ARE LEAKING
FUEL INJECTORS APPEAR TO BE FINE. PROPER OHM READING AND NONE ARE LEAKING
gmack221
10-19-2005, 12:37 PM
You checked your compression and it checked out ok right? So you have sprark, fuel, compression right? Does the jerking happen only when your stopped? (I assume you said no, but if yes unplug the transmission electrical connector to see if your converter is locking up on you). If the answer was no try disconnecting your exasut before your cadalitic converter, maybe you have a plugged converter restricting the exhaust flow. If its not a cadalitic converter isssue the next place i'd look is the air intake system, is there something restricting the air coming in?
if its only at idle maybe your idle control motor took a crap on you, clean it and see if that helps.
Are you positive you have the right compression, if its a bit off there is the possibility you had a timing chain jump a tooth or two on a cam, check that if nothing else jumps out at you, haynes manual tells you how, maybe the tensioner is taking a crap on you.
I have a 95 dohc 2.3l too, and nothing else is jumping out at me, I ran my car for 10k after a motor rebuild with the exhaust cam one tooth off, it would shake violently at idle, but would straighten out once it got above 1500 rpm, had a slight loss of power but nothing major.
if its only at idle maybe your idle control motor took a crap on you, clean it and see if that helps.
Are you positive you have the right compression, if its a bit off there is the possibility you had a timing chain jump a tooth or two on a cam, check that if nothing else jumps out at you, haynes manual tells you how, maybe the tensioner is taking a crap on you.
I have a 95 dohc 2.3l too, and nothing else is jumping out at me, I ran my car for 10k after a motor rebuild with the exhaust cam one tooth off, it would shake violently at idle, but would straighten out once it got above 1500 rpm, had a slight loss of power but nothing major.
MCYTWO
10-20-2005, 11:39 AM
You checked your compression and it checked out ok right? So you have sprark, fuel, compression right? Does the jerking happen only when your stopped? (I assume you said no, but if yes unplug the transmission electrical connector to see if your converter is locking up on you). If the answer was no try disconnecting your exasut before your cadalitic converter, maybe you have a plugged converter restricting the exhaust flow. If its not a cadalitic converter isssue the next place i'd look is the air intake system, is there something restricting the air coming in?
if its only at idle maybe your idle control motor took a crap on you, clean it and see if that helps.
Are you positive you have the right compression, if its a bit off there is the possibility you had a timing chain jump a tooth or two on a cam, check that if nothing else jumps out at you, haynes manual tells you how, maybe the tensioner is taking a crap on you.
I have a 95 dohc 2.3l too, and nothing else is jumping out at me, I ran my car for 10k after a motor rebuild with the exhaust cam one tooth off, it would shake violently at idle, but would straighten out once it got above 1500 rpm, had a slight loss of power but nothing major.
I DID CHECK EVRY ITEM YOU MENTIONED WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE TIMING CHAIN. I AM GETTING COMPRESSION OF 135 TO 140 OVER EACH OF THE 4 CYLINDERS. I THOUGH IF THE TIMING WAS OFF THE COMPRESSION WOULD ALSO BE OFF.
if its only at idle maybe your idle control motor took a crap on you, clean it and see if that helps.
Are you positive you have the right compression, if its a bit off there is the possibility you had a timing chain jump a tooth or two on a cam, check that if nothing else jumps out at you, haynes manual tells you how, maybe the tensioner is taking a crap on you.
I have a 95 dohc 2.3l too, and nothing else is jumping out at me, I ran my car for 10k after a motor rebuild with the exhaust cam one tooth off, it would shake violently at idle, but would straighten out once it got above 1500 rpm, had a slight loss of power but nothing major.
I DID CHECK EVRY ITEM YOU MENTIONED WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE TIMING CHAIN. I AM GETTING COMPRESSION OF 135 TO 140 OVER EACH OF THE 4 CYLINDERS. I THOUGH IF THE TIMING WAS OFF THE COMPRESSION WOULD ALSO BE OFF.
gmack221
10-20-2005, 02:29 PM
Get the car started and spray car cleaner on the intake near the head, maybe you have a bad intake gasket, you will know if the car changes idle, misses, ect when you spray it on the leak.
Vacume leak somewhere? That may give simular symptoms.
The last thing I can think of would be a bad ground connection on the motor. Seems like you have all of the major components checked.
Vacume leak somewhere? That may give simular symptoms.
The last thing I can think of would be a bad ground connection on the motor. Seems like you have all of the major components checked.
MCYTWO
10-21-2005, 11:28 AM
Get the car started and spray car cleaner on the intake near the head, maybe you have a bad intake gasket, you will know if the car changes idle, misses, ect when you spray it on the leak.
Vacume leak somewhere? That may give simular symptoms.
The last thing I can think of would be a bad ground connection on the motor. Seems like you have all of the major components checked.
THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTIONS. THIS ONE IS A MAJOR HEADACHE. IT MAY TURN OUT TO BE SOMETHING SO SIMPLE THAT WAS LOOKING AT US ALL THE TIME. I HOPE SO. RAN OUT OF THINGS TO CHECK.
Vacume leak somewhere? That may give simular symptoms.
The last thing I can think of would be a bad ground connection on the motor. Seems like you have all of the major components checked.
THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTIONS. THIS ONE IS A MAJOR HEADACHE. IT MAY TURN OUT TO BE SOMETHING SO SIMPLE THAT WAS LOOKING AT US ALL THE TIME. I HOPE SO. RAN OUT OF THINGS TO CHECK.
MaDz1980
10-23-2005, 09:52 PM
I'm currently experiencing similar problem w/ my grand am 95 quad4 2.3L... But engine chokes, turn not well and turn off when idle or when I'm not pressing the gas pedal...When I'm riding and I press the gas pedal, everything goes right and after 3-4 seconds, I have no more power and the only way to have power is to press the pedal to the floor. So I'm driving like a crazy dude, always tire burning and always restarting my car on every stop. Easy to restart. Help plz! (Sorry I'm french so try to decript this text)
MCYTWO
10-25-2005, 12:54 PM
I'm currently experiencing similar problem w/ my grand am 95 quad4 2.3L... But engine chokes, turn not well and turn off when idle or when I'm not pressing the gas pedal...When I'm riding and I press the gas pedal, everything goes right and after 3-4 seconds, I have no more power and the only way to have power is to press the pedal to the floor. So I'm driving like a crazy dude, always tire burning and always restarting my car on every stop. Easy to restart. Help plz! (Sorry I'm french so try to decript this text)
SORRY BUT MY PROBLEM HAS NOT BEEN RESOLVED YET. DO NOT KNOW OF ANY MORE ITEMS TO CHECK OR REPLACE. THINKING OF HAVING IT TOWED TO A DIAGNOSTIC PLACE AND RUN FROM THERE.
SORRY BUT MY PROBLEM HAS NOT BEEN RESOLVED YET. DO NOT KNOW OF ANY MORE ITEMS TO CHECK OR REPLACE. THINKING OF HAVING IT TOWED TO A DIAGNOSTIC PLACE AND RUN FROM THERE.
gmack221
10-25-2005, 01:44 PM
SORRY BUT MY PROBLEM HAS NOT BEEN RESOLVED YET. DO NOT KNOW OF ANY MORE ITEMS TO CHECK OR REPLACE. THINKING OF HAVING IT TOWED TO A DIAGNOSTIC PLACE AND RUN FROM THERE.
MCYTWO you have me stumped, the only thing I can tell you to check would be the timing, takes time, but thats free if you want to look into it, the key on the crank should line up with a marker on the block, and the cam shaft sprockets have holes in them an m8 (i believe) bolt goes thru into holes in the cam housing (if everything is in time).
the only reason I could think of you have good compression and the timing could be off is if the exhaust valves are staying closed longer then they should, but im not positive that can happen.
last winter I completely rebuilt mine, every part came off, and it bothers me I can't think of anything else for you to check.
maybe I just thought of one thing, on the timing chain (accessory side of the motor) there is a rubber hose that runs to a black plastic box (mounted on the intake) that is your PCV hose, if by chance that hose or PCV box is clogged up it might be choking the motor.
last thing I can think of is cleaning your idle control motor (not sure if we mentioned that yet or not) its on the thoratle body, should have 2 screws holding it in, and an electrical connector attached to it, should be on the top side of the thoratle body. (by the way don't twist the end of the motor or you will end up buying a new one like I did)
MCYTWO you have me stumped, the only thing I can tell you to check would be the timing, takes time, but thats free if you want to look into it, the key on the crank should line up with a marker on the block, and the cam shaft sprockets have holes in them an m8 (i believe) bolt goes thru into holes in the cam housing (if everything is in time).
the only reason I could think of you have good compression and the timing could be off is if the exhaust valves are staying closed longer then they should, but im not positive that can happen.
last winter I completely rebuilt mine, every part came off, and it bothers me I can't think of anything else for you to check.
maybe I just thought of one thing, on the timing chain (accessory side of the motor) there is a rubber hose that runs to a black plastic box (mounted on the intake) that is your PCV hose, if by chance that hose or PCV box is clogged up it might be choking the motor.
last thing I can think of is cleaning your idle control motor (not sure if we mentioned that yet or not) its on the thoratle body, should have 2 screws holding it in, and an electrical connector attached to it, should be on the top side of the thoratle body. (by the way don't twist the end of the motor or you will end up buying a new one like I did)
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