omfg..someone... PLEASE HELP ME

Okay! The crx has been a bitch to me the last 2 weeks. Died at stop light and won't start up. Cranks over and over but no spark, no spark from the coil. Coil test fine with test light all connections good..put in new coil same thing, New Ignitor..same thing. It's code 15 Ignition output signal. It turns over and the rotor spins so the belt is fine..rotor is on tight, all wires to ecu are in and secured/unsevered. New battery, all fuses fine. I'm stumped my dads stumped my girlfriends dad and his mechanic are both stumped and I have no car and it's really interfereing with my getting to work! someone PLEASE tell me your ideas. :(

Almost forgot, Crx dx 1.5 dpfi

ok this may seem way out there but did you blow your timing belt?

Okay! The crx has been a bitch to me the last 2 weeks. Died at stop light and won't start up. Cranks over and over but no spark, no spark from the coil. Coil test fine with test light all connections good..put in new coil same thing, New Ignitor..same thing. It's code 15 Ignition output signal. It turns over and the rotor spins so the belt is fine..rotor is on tight, all wires to ecu are in and secured/unsevered. New battery, all fuses fine. I'm stumped my dads stumped my girlfriends dad and his mechanic are both stumped and I have no car and it's really interfereing with my getting to work! someone PLEASE tell me your ideas. :(

Almost forgot, Crx dx 1.5 dpfi

It is your distributor or should I say inside your dizzy. Your computer is not seeing a tdc signal (PIP) You need to check your hall effect switch

If you look in the dist. you will see a thin metal plate with holes all the way around it. It spins and the HES recieved the signal with light through the holes. Double check your connections. Might be that instead.

Let us know

SH

take your dizzy apart and clean all the connections with steel wool.
That could help it.

ok this may seem way out there but did you blow your timing belt?

I don't think so because the rotor still spins when I crank it over, and it was just put in a year ago anyways.

Also about the TDC signal or w/e it was. How do you fix that peice exactly? Can it be bought seperate or do I need a whole new dizzy?

Thanks guys.

Probably need a whole new dizzy... Same bs happened to me and the dizzy was only a year old (warranty but that didn't alleviate my headaches and towing fees). GL

swap dist and if that doesnt fix it, try swap ecus and see if that fixes it

swap dist and if that doesnt fix it, try swap ecus and see if that fixes it

oh sure no prob. I'll just go buy a new dizzy and ecu..oh wait I'm broke as fuck and I can't do that.

And what is this hall sensor thing the one guy was talking about? I have the Haynes manual and that's not anywhere in it.

damn dirty...shouldda bought a dodge :iceslolan

jk! That sucks your having problems. I would check/redo your timing. I had my timing screwed up once so bad, it wouldn't even run until I fixed it.

I don't freaking know.. I just took off the cover and inspected the whole belt. Every tooth was perfect. and it was running just fine as always when it died idling at a stop light.. I just don't know, I'm thinking suicide is a viable option at this point. Going out and buying a new dizzy sounds great, but what if that doesn't do crap and i'm 300 bucks in the shitter and still no vehicle. This is already becoming way to expensive, I owe like 2 people money already.

And that plate with the holes, as far as I can see it's not even in my dizzy. Plz keep the advice coming guys.

http://stores.ebay.com/DISTRIBUTOR-KING_W0QQssPageNameZviQ3asibQ3astoreviewQQtZkm

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1302312

type in hondatech in the promo and you get 10% off on the price.


And what is this hall sensor thing the one guy was talking about? I have the Haynes manual and that's not anywhere in it.

the haynes is a POS. go get a helms next time.

It is your distributor or should I say inside your dizzy. Your computer is not seeing a tdc signal (PIP) You need to check your hall effect switch

could also be the grounds to it. the ground is shared with a few other sensors in and out of the dizzy. if your wondering what the hell we are talking about, get a helms and put the diagrams in front of you.

if it were me and im broke. i really dont have a choice. id have to either, buy the helms and have the diagrams in my face to shoot the wiring problem and/or swap out the dizzy. if its not the dizzy, then swap out the ecu. if its not the dizzy or ecu, im back to square 1, which is having the helms in my face to find the wiring problem and then resell the parts to get my money back. in the end, your in a tight hole. life sucks.

all wires to ecu are in and secured/unsevered.

PS: you checked actual continuity and battery voltage to the wires or you just gave it a visual?

The Haynes manual is crapparific for wiring diagrams. You could download the OEM manual, say from: http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/ or http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/workshopmanuals.html

The Hall sensor is like the original post said.
Basic info: http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-291.htm

Look at the position of yours when you take the rotor out you should see this & the plate in line with it. If your metal plate is warped or broken, that could be it.

I don't know if this would cause the error code, but it is a no-start: bad main relay (http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm). Maybe someone else could comment on the likelihood of this?

i didnt mean go buy new parts, do you know someone else with a dpfi civic ?

k so i was lookiing in my book. im hoping you have a voltmeter.

take off the 2 pin connector from the dist, it should ahve a blue wire and a blk/yel wire. now turn the ignition on and measure the voltage of the blk/yel wire on the chassis side, is there battery volts ? please respond and i can help you further

Helms in pdf http://www.crxpower.net/~silverkorn/manuals/CRX_Workshop_Manual.pdf

A new distributor from Advance Auto won't cost that much and it's warrantied. So if it doesn't work, bring it back.

well I will check the voltage like you said tonight civic killer, unfortunatly nobody I know around here has a dpfi and none of the junkies have any either :( I have to go to work now so tonight I'll try that stuff and let everyone know again.

And about the main relay. I can hear my fuel pump buzzing on when i turn the ignition on so that would mean the relay is good right?

I own a '90 Civic LX with a 1.5 and am having exactly the same problem.
I was driving about 20mph and heard a slight popping noise from the engine compartment.
All of the sudden my car's engine lost almost all of it's power, and when i let off the gas the car went dead.
I cleaned the contacts on my distributor and checked for spark to no avail.
But I have yet to remove the timing belt cover and check the belt.
If you find the solution to your problem please let me know.
Thank you and good luck.

Sound similar to a problem I one had. I took it to Honda to have the find out exactly what it was because I was stumped. They said it was my dizzy housing. Replaced the dizzy and it starte right up.

change the dizzy...it's bad...or get a can of gas an a match

I can't claim this as my own but it's still good information:
Take the cap off and you will see the coil. On the coil there are two connections. Get a 12v test light and hook it up to the connections on the coil, and have a friend try to start the car. If the test light flashes everything up to the coil is working.

That being said I think you need to replace the dizzy too. GL

on my CRX i could drive it for about 10-15 mins then it would die. when it died i could not start it back up for about 10-45 mins. then after it did start back up the same thing would happen. it turned out to be my ignition module. it is located in you D cap. Maybe yours went bad like mine.

I got the helms info and my crappy haynes info and checked the voltage to everything with a gauge..says it's all fine. I towed it into this mechanic my g/fs dad knows who's gonna look at it for free, I"m tired of looking at the damn thing.

I did the same thing... brought my car to an "import specialist" and he didn't charge me but couldn't figure it out... had the car towed a mile down the road to redneck honda guy and he said it was dizzy. GL

if you properly checked all the wiring, then, the problem lies in the dizzy housing or the ecu.

since you say you got a new coil and ignitor. and if you are getting battery power at the blk/yel wire. did you check the volts at B15 and B17 and get 10 volts ? if you did get 10 volts then it points toward ecu, if you didnt get 10volts then it points to a wiring problem because you said you replaced the ignitor

I Had The Same Problem Like About Two Months Ago. I Went And Bought And A New Dizzy......problem Solved!!!

I guess no one was reading when i posted :shakehead ...so whats the point on askin if you dont listen to the advice :dunno:...and this one everyone has the same answer, its unanomous

yeah but a new dist might not fix his problem if his ecu is band. thats why i am telling him steps to do to find out whats wrong.

if sargento replaced his dist and that fixed it, it might have been just a bad ignitor or coil, if he was getting a code 15.

just replacing big parts is an expensive way to fix a problem thats you might not need to replace

if a simple check with a multimeter of the wires turn out fine, start with the dizzy or either the ecu. i personally would start with the dizzy first.

its a easy part to come by i have like 4 in my garage plus ecus and no use for em{dpfi is usless for racin}...and cheap...im not saying cause im guessing it's cause i know...i build hondas for a living, replace the dizzy...

dude chill bigs, I don't have time to answer posts that much. The reason I'm taking it to the guy is cause he might find something besides the dizzy..like a wiring thing i missed, i'm tired of fucking with it like i said. If he doesn't find anything else THEN i'll buy the damn dizzy.

http://www.crxpower.net/~silverkorn/manuals/CRX_Workshop_Manual.pdf

you and your buddy can use that for the wiring diagrams. if all is well, try the dizzy and ecu.

well he's had it about a week and he still can't find anything.

And turtle I checked the advance auto site like you suggested..and the cheapest dizzy on there is still like $275 :/

They go on ebay for 150 but is that safe?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-New-88-91-HONDA-CIVIC-CRX-1-5L-Distributor_W0QQitemZ8006282156QQcategoryZ33690QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohostin g

Advanced and Autozone cut more off when you turn in your core. Mine was right at $180

Advanced and Autozone cut more off when you turn in your core. Mine was right at $180

That's right and it's got a limited lifetime warranty.

You might PM Ami and see if they have extra dizzies to get rid of...

try the HT and dizzy king link above. great guy. great deals. flying_pat is his user name on honda-tech.

why dont you try going everything over step by step, measuring volts everywhere. now you say you did but did you measure the right wires ?

theres alot more steps you could do to help rule out some things.