turbo questions
skriFF
10-17-2005, 01:39 PM
So I'm new to all of this stuff, I'm selling my V6 camaro (I know its a V6 and its slow, thats why I'm selling it) and Ive decided to with a KA24 and turbo it. My goal is to have all the parts at my house and ready to install by this winter when I have a a week long break from school. Since its my first instal I especially want to take my time and make sure I do everything right, thats why I'm taking the full week to do it.
Im having problems already though. I cant seem to find a good turbo online anywhere. As far as I'm aware the parts Im going to need are:
turbo, manifold, downpipe, wastegate, fuel managment, injectors, intercooler and piping, BOV, oil lines, fuel pump, and preferablly a full 3" exhaust to top it off.
My goal is to have a really mild turbo running about 7-10psi and I'm hoping to have around 225-250whp if its possible.
Can anybody give me some links on where I can find this stuff. If you guys could give me and good sites on where to find this for a good price, or maybe even any shops in the Seattle/Renton/Issaquah area that would help me a lot. I would really prefer to buy all my stuff in person versus buying it online. Also, if I'm missing anything on the list, let me know.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Im having problems already though. I cant seem to find a good turbo online anywhere. As far as I'm aware the parts Im going to need are:
turbo, manifold, downpipe, wastegate, fuel managment, injectors, intercooler and piping, BOV, oil lines, fuel pump, and preferablly a full 3" exhaust to top it off.
My goal is to have a really mild turbo running about 7-10psi and I'm hoping to have around 225-250whp if its possible.
Can anybody give me some links on where I can find this stuff. If you guys could give me and good sites on where to find this for a good price, or maybe even any shops in the Seattle/Renton/Issaquah area that would help me a lot. I would really prefer to buy all my stuff in person versus buying it online. Also, if I'm missing anything on the list, let me know.
Thanks a lot in advance.
TatII
10-17-2005, 02:04 PM
www.import-autoperformance.com has full kits for very reasonable price esp if your a member of www.nicoclub.com.
www.cheapturbos.com sells turbos for cheap.
you can get manifolds from ebay. try to look for cast iron manifolds. and make sure the flanges fits ( if your gettin a T3/T4 make sure your gettin a manifold with a T3 flange etc ) and only buy cast iron manifolds and stay away from SSautochrome crap. also stay away from XYZ turbos ofr whatever brand that is, there are a few members who guys this turbo thinkin its a good deal and the turbo's compressor blades broke off and went into the engine with only 7000 miles on it. remember you get what you pay for.
injectors you can get from detschwerks not sure of the exact spelling, nissanfanatic can link you to his site.
intercooler you can get from precision turbos.
wastegate and other random junk you can browse online.
www.cheapturbos.com sells turbos for cheap.
you can get manifolds from ebay. try to look for cast iron manifolds. and make sure the flanges fits ( if your gettin a T3/T4 make sure your gettin a manifold with a T3 flange etc ) and only buy cast iron manifolds and stay away from SSautochrome crap. also stay away from XYZ turbos ofr whatever brand that is, there are a few members who guys this turbo thinkin its a good deal and the turbo's compressor blades broke off and went into the engine with only 7000 miles on it. remember you get what you pay for.
injectors you can get from detschwerks not sure of the exact spelling, nissanfanatic can link you to his site.
intercooler you can get from precision turbos.
wastegate and other random junk you can browse online.
skriFF
10-17-2005, 04:14 PM
Thanks a lot. So a couple more questions:
1. The car that I'm gonna be turboing has fairly high miles, so I'm assuming I'll need to rebuild the motor. Approxamently how much is that gonna cost?
2. What is the lifespan on a T3/T04 turbo'd KA24? Or better, what is the lifespan on that turbo?
3. Assuming I'm putting down around 230whp, what kind of 0-60 and 1/4 mile times would I be pulling?
1. The car that I'm gonna be turboing has fairly high miles, so I'm assuming I'll need to rebuild the motor. Approxamently how much is that gonna cost?
2. What is the lifespan on a T3/T04 turbo'd KA24? Or better, what is the lifespan on that turbo?
3. Assuming I'm putting down around 230whp, what kind of 0-60 and 1/4 mile times would I be pulling?
lilskyline240
10-17-2005, 04:22 PM
Thanks a lot. So a couple more questions:
1. The car that I'm gonna be turboing has fairly high miles, so I'm assuming I'll need to rebuild the motor. Approxamently how much is that gonna cost?
2. What is the lifespan on a T3/T04 turbo'd KA24? Or better, what is the lifespan on that turbo?
3. Assuming I'm putting down around 230whp, what kind of 0-60 and 1/4 mile times would I be pulling?
1. i wouldnt worry about the miles on the motor unless they are really that high...and if u dont intend on runnin more than 10psi u should be fine. but if u want to rebuild the engine, that will be in the price range of $6500 including the turbo kit....
2. That turbo should be good for longer than u are dirvin your car
3. 1/4 miles times and 0-60 times vary from person to person...it all depends on driver skill....when i drive my 240 with a RB swap, i do about a full second better in the quarter than my friend does drivin my car....
1. The car that I'm gonna be turboing has fairly high miles, so I'm assuming I'll need to rebuild the motor. Approxamently how much is that gonna cost?
2. What is the lifespan on a T3/T04 turbo'd KA24? Or better, what is the lifespan on that turbo?
3. Assuming I'm putting down around 230whp, what kind of 0-60 and 1/4 mile times would I be pulling?
1. i wouldnt worry about the miles on the motor unless they are really that high...and if u dont intend on runnin more than 10psi u should be fine. but if u want to rebuild the engine, that will be in the price range of $6500 including the turbo kit....
2. That turbo should be good for longer than u are dirvin your car
3. 1/4 miles times and 0-60 times vary from person to person...it all depends on driver skill....when i drive my 240 with a RB swap, i do about a full second better in the quarter than my friend does drivin my car....
driftking777
10-17-2005, 07:59 PM
not trying to knock what skyline said but, i think if you do atleast some of the work yourself...engine disassembly and put back togather (which is good to do yourself so you know your car) you can do the whole thing for around 3500 to 4000 dollars...which means if you save up the 6500 to have someone else do it...thats 2500 you have for some more go fast parts...or wheels. which is essential to a nice car...so you do have a fast car that has gay wheels...like my car...anywho...skyline what do you run in the 1/4?
nissanfanatic
10-17-2005, 09:49 PM
I had my first kit together for a lil over $2k and I bought some useless stuff.
$2500 should get you to 250whp and if you fork over the extra $500, no reason you shouldn't be able to push more than the engine can handle. That is, if you are prepared to do some research and work.
3. 1/4 miles times and 0-60 times vary from person to person...it all depends on driver skill....when i drive my 240 with a RB swap, i do about a full second better in the quarter than my friend does drivin my car....
ET will change, but MPH should stay about the same. A little lower with good ETs.
230whp you should be right at 100-103mph depending on variables.
http://www.deatschwerks.com
10si, 50psi, whatever. That will only determine what kind of timing curve and fuel you have to run. Torque is the direct relation to stress on an engine. High torque, high stress. That is what cracks ringlands.
I trap 107mph on stock internals and Tims 240 just trapped 115mph on stock internals. I'm at 138,889 miles right now.
$2500 should get you to 250whp and if you fork over the extra $500, no reason you shouldn't be able to push more than the engine can handle. That is, if you are prepared to do some research and work.
3. 1/4 miles times and 0-60 times vary from person to person...it all depends on driver skill....when i drive my 240 with a RB swap, i do about a full second better in the quarter than my friend does drivin my car....
ET will change, but MPH should stay about the same. A little lower with good ETs.
230whp you should be right at 100-103mph depending on variables.
http://www.deatschwerks.com
10si, 50psi, whatever. That will only determine what kind of timing curve and fuel you have to run. Torque is the direct relation to stress on an engine. High torque, high stress. That is what cracks ringlands.
I trap 107mph on stock internals and Tims 240 just trapped 115mph on stock internals. I'm at 138,889 miles right now.
lilskyline240
10-17-2005, 10:06 PM
not trying to knock what skyline said but, i think if you do atleast some of the work yourself...engine disassembly and put back togather (which is good to do yourself so you know your car) you can do the whole thing for around 3500 to 4000 dollars...which means if you save up the 6500 to have someone else do it...thats 2500 you have for some more go fast parts...or wheels. which is essential to a nice car...so you do have a fast car that has gay wheels...like my car...anywho...skyline what do you run in the 1/4?
well i never ran it an a certified drag strip....me and my friends have this 1/4 mile drag strip marked off behind the quad graphics plan...we have it exactly a 1/4 mile...marked it off with a marking wheel used to mark Cross Country courses.....but anyways....rough timing i ran a 13.2.....stock motor, 3in from turbo back, ACT clutch...my friend did the same thing at over 14 seconds in my car....dumb ass driver is what i say...but i think if i took it to the track, i am confident that i could hit 12's...hopefully....but not till next yr....shes put away for the winter months now...
well i never ran it an a certified drag strip....me and my friends have this 1/4 mile drag strip marked off behind the quad graphics plan...we have it exactly a 1/4 mile...marked it off with a marking wheel used to mark Cross Country courses.....but anyways....rough timing i ran a 13.2.....stock motor, 3in from turbo back, ACT clutch...my friend did the same thing at over 14 seconds in my car....dumb ass driver is what i say...but i think if i took it to the track, i am confident that i could hit 12's...hopefully....but not till next yr....shes put away for the winter months now...
Tims_240
10-17-2005, 10:14 PM
I trap 107mph on stock internals and Tims 240 just trapped 115mph on stock internals. I'm at 138,889 miles right now.
im at 126,880, i have had no engine knock whatsoever, or even any signs that my engine Could be breaking down, and people say i should be at the 340-350whp range with a 115 trap.
i would say check your compression, if i remember right stock compression is like 159 or something like that.
http://www.deatschwerks.com/buyinjectors.htm
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/
http://atpturbo.com/
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/index.html
http://www.splparts.com/
http://www.handcraftedracing.com/
http://www.xatracing.com/
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/
http://www.ka24de.com/
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/
http://www.pintotech.com/ <<< anthony's site...
that should get you started.
-tim
im at 126,880, i have had no engine knock whatsoever, or even any signs that my engine Could be breaking down, and people say i should be at the 340-350whp range with a 115 trap.
i would say check your compression, if i remember right stock compression is like 159 or something like that.
http://www.deatschwerks.com/buyinjectors.htm
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/
http://atpturbo.com/
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/index.html
http://www.splparts.com/
http://www.handcraftedracing.com/
http://www.xatracing.com/
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/
http://www.ka24de.com/
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/
http://www.pintotech.com/ <<< anthony's site...
that should get you started.
-tim
TatII
10-17-2005, 11:18 PM
wow tim, your car is flying. what psi are you running? i just recently switched over to a T04E with a 60 trim and i'm running 13 psi.
D-Bo
10-18-2005, 11:37 AM
aw guys, you just made me make a big mess again..
R.W.240
10-18-2005, 11:44 AM
Why has no one done...
Megan Tubular Bottom mount manifold
IHI VF35 Turbo (w/portedwastegate)
Supports 2.5L to like 350AWHP... and it would be cheap since you could get a used one from an STi.
(PS. why rag on SSAutochrome? its a cheap tubular manifold so you wont cry when it breaks)
Megan Tubular Bottom mount manifold
IHI VF35 Turbo (w/portedwastegate)
Supports 2.5L to like 350AWHP... and it would be cheap since you could get a used one from an STi.
(PS. why rag on SSAutochrome? its a cheap tubular manifold so you wont cry when it breaks)
lilskyline240
10-18-2005, 12:04 PM
[QUOTE=R.W.240]Why has no one done...
Megan Tubular Bottom mount manifold
IHI VF35 Turbo (w/portedwastegate)
Supports 2.5L to like 350AWHP... and it would be cheap since you could get a used one from an STi. QUOTE]
The STI manifold fits on the KA??
Megan Tubular Bottom mount manifold
IHI VF35 Turbo (w/portedwastegate)
Supports 2.5L to like 350AWHP... and it would be cheap since you could get a used one from an STi. QUOTE]
The STI manifold fits on the KA??
xcusememisswyn
10-18-2005, 02:04 PM
no! the turbo, wrx's and sti's have boxer engines, the turbo connects by whats called the up pipe. I dont really know a whole lot about it but thats basic stuff
Importboom
10-18-2005, 03:03 PM
This doesnt have to do with his question but what does a stock s14 top out at? mph wise...
TatII
10-18-2005, 04:05 PM
bone stock its limited at 120mph, and even so it takes forever to get there.
Importboom
10-18-2005, 05:44 PM
do you mean there a limiter on it? or it just doesnt do it?
orestes
10-18-2005, 05:46 PM
its limited electronically. and with exhaust it gets to 120 nice and easy. i never tried it stock but i believe it would have a hard time with it.
nissanfanatic
10-18-2005, 07:45 PM
do you mean there a limiter on it? or it just doesnt do it?
Get your own thread.
The fastest stock internal KA-T right now runs a SSAC manifold. Trapping 118mph and dynoing 400whp+.
NTM, no one on here has ever used an SSAC manifold, so how the hell can you say anything about it?
Just for a kicker, bad news gets around much quicker than good news. Tons of people use the SSAC manifold with success.
Get your own thread.
The fastest stock internal KA-T right now runs a SSAC manifold. Trapping 118mph and dynoing 400whp+.
NTM, no one on here has ever used an SSAC manifold, so how the hell can you say anything about it?
Just for a kicker, bad news gets around much quicker than good news. Tons of people use the SSAC manifold with success.
skriFF
10-19-2005, 12:39 AM
Well the car I'm looking at has pretty high miles. Its a 1991 5spd with power everything in "excellent condition" lol. They are asking $2600 for it which I already know is much to high. I figure if I offer them $2K in cash they wont refuse. Do you think even $2k is too high? KBB on it says that retail value in good condition is around $1600.
I would really prefer to find a decent car with decent miles for more like $1500 so I know that I have enough money to buy all the turbo parts I'm gona need. Otherwise I'm gonna have to buy in installments which would be gay.
Back to the question: becuase the car has high (180,000) it needs to be rebuilt to hold a turbo for a while right?
I would really prefer to find a decent car with decent miles for more like $1500 so I know that I have enough money to buy all the turbo parts I'm gona need. Otherwise I'm gonna have to buy in installments which would be gay.
Back to the question: becuase the car has high (180,000) it needs to be rebuilt to hold a turbo for a while right?
lilskyline240
10-19-2005, 07:16 AM
Well the car I'm looking at has pretty high miles. Its a 1991 5spd with power everything in "excellent condition" lol. They are asking $2600 for it which I already know is much to high. I figure if I offer them $2K in cash they wont refuse. Do you think even $2k is too high? KBB on it says that retail value in good condition is around $1600.
I would really prefer to find a decent car with decent miles for more like $1500 so I know that I have enough money to buy all the turbo parts I'm gona need. Otherwise I'm gonna have to buy in installments which would be gay.
Back to the question: becuase the car has high (180,000) it needs to be rebuilt to hold a turbo for a while right?
id offer the guy some lowball number like 1400 then make ur way up to maybe 2000....since the car is in excellent shape...it may be worth 2000...but try to stay under 1800
I would really prefer to find a decent car with decent miles for more like $1500 so I know that I have enough money to buy all the turbo parts I'm gona need. Otherwise I'm gonna have to buy in installments which would be gay.
Back to the question: becuase the car has high (180,000) it needs to be rebuilt to hold a turbo for a while right?
id offer the guy some lowball number like 1400 then make ur way up to maybe 2000....since the car is in excellent shape...it may be worth 2000...but try to stay under 1800
nissanfanatic
10-19-2005, 04:01 PM
Back to the question: becuase the car has high (180,000) it needs to be rebuilt to hold a turbo for a while right?
No telling man. It all depends on the condition of the engine.
I know of a guy who has popped like 3 engines at 12-15psi and all of them had like 50k while I also know of a guy who has a 273k SOHC boosting 10psi and is still going. Actually the last I heard, he was going on 278k.lol
The best thing you can do to ensure that the engine lasts is use good oil, change frequently with filter, and run a good tune.
No telling man. It all depends on the condition of the engine.
I know of a guy who has popped like 3 engines at 12-15psi and all of them had like 50k while I also know of a guy who has a 273k SOHC boosting 10psi and is still going. Actually the last I heard, he was going on 278k.lol
The best thing you can do to ensure that the engine lasts is use good oil, change frequently with filter, and run a good tune.
Hit_N_Run-player
10-19-2005, 04:55 PM
yeah tuning is extremely important, it will make or break your setup...
nissanfanatic
10-19-2005, 07:13 PM
^Which makes me ask why these people who want their car to last so long and make all this power end up running SAFC+370ccs...
Break down and buy a tuned ECU and injectors.
Rewire your fuel pump.
Run NGK BKR6E-11 for under 250whp and BKR7E-11 for 250whp<.
And do basic matinence like a mofo.
Wideband is a must IMO. Anyone running KA-T without a wideband is just not playing with a full deck. Even with tuned ECU, you shoudl have a wideband. Fuel filter gets clogged and you don't know, either your wideband will tell you if you have one, or your engine will tell you if you don't.
Break down and buy a tuned ECU and injectors.
Rewire your fuel pump.
Run NGK BKR6E-11 for under 250whp and BKR7E-11 for 250whp<.
And do basic matinence like a mofo.
Wideband is a must IMO. Anyone running KA-T without a wideband is just not playing with a full deck. Even with tuned ECU, you shoudl have a wideband. Fuel filter gets clogged and you don't know, either your wideband will tell you if you have one, or your engine will tell you if you don't.
lilskyline240
10-19-2005, 07:29 PM
^Which makes me ask why these people who want their car to last so long and make all this power end up running SAFC+370ccs...
Break down and buy a tuned ECU and injectors.
Rewire your fuel pump.
Run NGK BKR6E-11 for under 250whp and BKR7E-11 for 250whp<.
And do basic matinence like a mofo.
Wideband is a must IMO. Anyone running KA-T without a wideband is just not playing with a full deck. Even with tuned ECU, you shoudl have a wideband. Fuel filter gets clogged and you don't know, either your wideband will tell you if you have one, or your engine will tell you if you don't.
Nissanfanatic, what wideband do u suggest?? i dont have one of them yet...what one are u using and how much did u pick it up for?
Break down and buy a tuned ECU and injectors.
Rewire your fuel pump.
Run NGK BKR6E-11 for under 250whp and BKR7E-11 for 250whp<.
And do basic matinence like a mofo.
Wideband is a must IMO. Anyone running KA-T without a wideband is just not playing with a full deck. Even with tuned ECU, you shoudl have a wideband. Fuel filter gets clogged and you don't know, either your wideband will tell you if you have one, or your engine will tell you if you don't.
Nissanfanatic, what wideband do u suggest?? i dont have one of them yet...what one are u using and how much did u pick it up for?
TatII
10-19-2005, 11:13 PM
me and nissanfanatic uses a plx300 wideband and we got it for dirt cheap $315 shipped from www.streetrays.com
i always check my wideband whenver i do a change in setup, or change in boost change in weather etc. its amazing how all these little things effects air fuel rations, even if your running a tune ecu. the only problem is that in broad daylights its not very readable. so i do most of my tuning at night, and theres no data logging function, but for 300 bucks who cares.
i always check my wideband whenver i do a change in setup, or change in boost change in weather etc. its amazing how all these little things effects air fuel rations, even if your running a tune ecu. the only problem is that in broad daylights its not very readable. so i do most of my tuning at night, and theres no data logging function, but for 300 bucks who cares.
nissanfanatic
10-20-2005, 12:05 AM
The higher dollar PLXs offer datalogging. I kinda wish I had it, but W/E. If I ever get that worried about it, I'll just go to the dyno.
lilskyline240
10-20-2005, 11:11 AM
The higher dollar PLXs offer datalogging. I kinda wish I had it, but W/E. If I ever get that worried about it, I'll just go to the dyno.
i was lookin at gettin the innovative LM-1 wideband...because it will plug right into the Greddy E-01 boost controller which i plan on gettin...i think taht would alow me to data log because the E-01 has tons of feature....correct me if im wrong plz
i was lookin at gettin the innovative LM-1 wideband...because it will plug right into the Greddy E-01 boost controller which i plan on gettin...i think taht would alow me to data log because the E-01 has tons of feature....correct me if im wrong plz
skriFF
10-20-2005, 02:43 PM
Ive been doing a lot of searching online and I think I have found a setup that should work together.
Let me know if there are any problems that you can see or anything I'm missing. Also if you know of any better places to find any of this stuff would be helpful.
Heres the list:
TURBO: T3/T04E .60trim with .63 a/r -$620 from cheapturbos.com
TURBO MANIFOLD: T3/T04E w/ external wastegate -$159 from ebay.com
DOWNPIPE: Greddy MX downpipe -$140 from perfomancennissanparts
WASTEGATE: TiAL 38mm .6bar (9psi) -$239 from cheapturbos.com
FUAL MGT: JWT ECU -$505 from performancenissanparts
INTERCOOLER: PWR 24" x 8" x 3" front mount -$499 from cheapturbos.com
BOV: Greddy Type RS -$195 from xatracing.com
OIL LINES: IAP oil line kit -$169 from importautoperformance
FUEL PUMP: Walbro 255lhp -$90 from xatracing.com
I know I'll be needing things like intake, exhaust, boost gauge, boost controller, turbo timer and other things, but for now I'm just adding up the motor parts that I'll need. I also know I'm missing the intercooler piping and injectors because I'm having a hard time finding them. Also, I'm not entirely sure what injector size I should go with. I guess Im also gonna need to get a wideband while I'm at it so Ill add that to the "to do" list. lol
If anybody can think of what I"m missing, cuz I'm sure I am, let me know. And if you know of any places with better deals please let me know. Thanks a lot in advance for any feedback that you have
Let me know if there are any problems that you can see or anything I'm missing. Also if you know of any better places to find any of this stuff would be helpful.
Heres the list:
TURBO: T3/T04E .60trim with .63 a/r -$620 from cheapturbos.com
TURBO MANIFOLD: T3/T04E w/ external wastegate -$159 from ebay.com
DOWNPIPE: Greddy MX downpipe -$140 from perfomancennissanparts
WASTEGATE: TiAL 38mm .6bar (9psi) -$239 from cheapturbos.com
FUAL MGT: JWT ECU -$505 from performancenissanparts
INTERCOOLER: PWR 24" x 8" x 3" front mount -$499 from cheapturbos.com
BOV: Greddy Type RS -$195 from xatracing.com
OIL LINES: IAP oil line kit -$169 from importautoperformance
FUEL PUMP: Walbro 255lhp -$90 from xatracing.com
I know I'll be needing things like intake, exhaust, boost gauge, boost controller, turbo timer and other things, but for now I'm just adding up the motor parts that I'll need. I also know I'm missing the intercooler piping and injectors because I'm having a hard time finding them. Also, I'm not entirely sure what injector size I should go with. I guess Im also gonna need to get a wideband while I'm at it so Ill add that to the "to do" list. lol
If anybody can think of what I"m missing, cuz I'm sure I am, let me know. And if you know of any places with better deals please let me know. Thanks a lot in advance for any feedback that you have
monooxide
10-20-2005, 03:09 PM
If i remember the compressor map for the 60 trim correctly when I plotted points on it youll get compressor surge on a 60 trim. Im gonna get a 50 trim and Ive seen 57 trim used on a KA as well.
R.W.240
10-20-2005, 03:53 PM
Get a KTS or Megan Downpipe... the downpipe testpipe combo is only 150$ in stainless steel.
(Greddy is mild steel)
Also I think you'll need a turbo elbow to connect the downpipe to the turbine... but some manifolds come with one :dunno:
(Greddy is mild steel)
Also I think you'll need a turbo elbow to connect the downpipe to the turbine... but some manifolds come with one :dunno:
Tims_240
10-20-2005, 11:47 PM
wow tim, your car is flying. what psi are you running? i just recently switched over to a T04E with a 60 trim and i'm running 13 psi.
sorry for late post, i dont come here too often.
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6840
thats my latest update on track times.
-tim
sorry for late post, i dont come here too often.
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6840
thats my latest update on track times.
-tim
skriFF
10-24-2005, 03:02 PM
Ok so I'm thinking about going a different way with this whole thing. I already hit my first problem. I cant find a damn 240 with a KA24DE DOHC anywhere for a decent price to save my life.
So here's my question:
If I buy a KA24E SOHC instead of the DOHC and then put the T3/T04E turbo with all the extra stuff I need, is it even worth it due to the HP losses of the SOHC?
Or
Should I just buy a 240 with a trashed motor and decent body for less than $1000, which I found at a dealer and then pay the money and just to an SR20 swap. The lowest price I have seen around to get the motor is right around $2000. Then hopefully I would save a little bit of money and get the FMIC, full exhaust, and boost controller) and be pushing ~250whp
So here's my question:
If I buy a KA24E SOHC instead of the DOHC and then put the T3/T04E turbo with all the extra stuff I need, is it even worth it due to the HP losses of the SOHC?
Or
Should I just buy a 240 with a trashed motor and decent body for less than $1000, which I found at a dealer and then pay the money and just to an SR20 swap. The lowest price I have seen around to get the motor is right around $2000. Then hopefully I would save a little bit of money and get the FMIC, full exhaust, and boost controller) and be pushing ~250whp
RaidenKing
10-24-2005, 03:16 PM
Ok so I'm thinking about going a different way with this whole thing. I already hit my first problem. I cant find a damn 240 with a KA23DEDOHC anywhere for a decent price to save my life.
So here's my question:
If I buy a KA24E SOHC instead of the DOHC and then put the T3/T04E turbo with all the extra stuff I need, is it even worth it due to the HP losses of the SOHC?
Or
Should I just buy a 240 with a trashed motor and decent body for less than $1000, which I found at a dealer and then pay the money and just to an SR20 swap. The lowest price I have seen around to get the motor is right around $2000. Then hopefully I would save a little bit of money and get the FMIC, full exhaust, and boost controller) and be pushing ~250whp
Well if you're looking for a KA23DEDOHC.... You'll never find one?
Haha the engine comes in KA24DE (D standing for double over head cams or DOHC) and KA24E, which is the single cam version.
the route you're talking about as a second option is the route I went because I was looking to purchase a new car anyway. I found a beautiful white S13 for about $1500 and had a shop in tampa install the sr20det motor with a few extra goodies like a full catback exhaust, VSPL fmic, etc. Altogether this cost me a little less than $7,500 but had I done it myself I bet it would have amounted to below $6,000.
Also, it wouldn't be pointless to turbo the ka24e, there are plenty of turbo'd single cams that kick some ass but DOHC is generally a lot more convenient to have.
So here's my question:
If I buy a KA24E SOHC instead of the DOHC and then put the T3/T04E turbo with all the extra stuff I need, is it even worth it due to the HP losses of the SOHC?
Or
Should I just buy a 240 with a trashed motor and decent body for less than $1000, which I found at a dealer and then pay the money and just to an SR20 swap. The lowest price I have seen around to get the motor is right around $2000. Then hopefully I would save a little bit of money and get the FMIC, full exhaust, and boost controller) and be pushing ~250whp
Well if you're looking for a KA23DEDOHC.... You'll never find one?
Haha the engine comes in KA24DE (D standing for double over head cams or DOHC) and KA24E, which is the single cam version.
the route you're talking about as a second option is the route I went because I was looking to purchase a new car anyway. I found a beautiful white S13 for about $1500 and had a shop in tampa install the sr20det motor with a few extra goodies like a full catback exhaust, VSPL fmic, etc. Altogether this cost me a little less than $7,500 but had I done it myself I bet it would have amounted to below $6,000.
Also, it wouldn't be pointless to turbo the ka24e, there are plenty of turbo'd single cams that kick some ass but DOHC is generally a lot more convenient to have.
skriFF
10-24-2005, 04:09 PM
Lol yea, I doubt Ill ever be able to find a KA23DE anywhere. Anyways, I would prefer to just do a KA-T because it would require less work becuase I dont have to instal a new engine and wiring harness and all that extra crap.
O and I almost forgot, how much power can the stock rear end and tranny take safely?
O and I almost forgot, how much power can the stock rear end and tranny take safely?
skriFF
10-24-2005, 04:10 PM
Also...what kind of 1/4 mile does a stock SR20 do?
RaidenKing
10-24-2005, 07:29 PM
Lol yea, I doubt Ill ever be able to find a KA23DE anywhere. Anyways, I would prefer to just do a KA-T because it would require less work becuase I dont have to instal a new engine and wiring harness and all that extra crap.
O and I almost forgot, how much power can the stock rear end and tranny take safely?
Honestly, had I known about the possibilities with the ka24 engine in terms of turbocharging I may have picked that over the sr20det (more torque = more fun). You're also probably smarter going that route because if it's your first time then I don't see you being able to get the old engine dropped and the new one in on your own in a good week's time.
I'm no master on the rear end or what it can take so I'll let a more knowledgable member take care of that.
From what I've learned, the sr20det at stock level will run mid to low 14's. The sr20det with minimal mods and boost up will be able to hit 12's on the stock turbo. There's a guy at a local shop who has claimed an 11.9 run on the t-25 turbo but he has pretty much done everything you can to it except for changing the turbo out.
On the flipside, KA-Ts average mid-high 13 runs (this depends greatly on the type of turbo you decide to go with) from what I've seen. The KA-T times will also depend on how well the engine has been tuned to receive boost. A turbo'd ka24 with no tune won't last as long or yield the best results as it will with a good tune (though they are strong) so just remember to have all your bases covered.
O and I almost forgot, how much power can the stock rear end and tranny take safely?
Honestly, had I known about the possibilities with the ka24 engine in terms of turbocharging I may have picked that over the sr20det (more torque = more fun). You're also probably smarter going that route because if it's your first time then I don't see you being able to get the old engine dropped and the new one in on your own in a good week's time.
I'm no master on the rear end or what it can take so I'll let a more knowledgable member take care of that.
From what I've learned, the sr20det at stock level will run mid to low 14's. The sr20det with minimal mods and boost up will be able to hit 12's on the stock turbo. There's a guy at a local shop who has claimed an 11.9 run on the t-25 turbo but he has pretty much done everything you can to it except for changing the turbo out.
On the flipside, KA-Ts average mid-high 13 runs (this depends greatly on the type of turbo you decide to go with) from what I've seen. The KA-T times will also depend on how well the engine has been tuned to receive boost. A turbo'd ka24 with no tune won't last as long or yield the best results as it will with a good tune (though they are strong) so just remember to have all your bases covered.
lilskyline240
10-24-2005, 10:08 PM
^ listen to him
Stock rear end should be good no matter how much HP u throw at it...but you wont put that HP to the ground...you should get some sort of LSD....like the VLSD out of the HICAS 240's....that one works well
Stock rear end should be good no matter how much HP u throw at it...but you wont put that HP to the ground...you should get some sort of LSD....like the VLSD out of the HICAS 240's....that one works well
nissanfanatic
10-24-2005, 10:25 PM
After going to an autox event and seeing one of the guys I know(orion) drive his car hard as hell, the KA can take so much abuse. His current setup has been turboed for approx. 1.5years and he drives the shit out of it at 12psi/300whp.
Want good ETs? Get some sticky ass tires, weld your diff, and dump the clutch. If you do weight reduction, 11s can be done on 250whp.
One benefit of the SOHC is it was offered with 8.6:1 CR. Head design was different tho. The only thing the SR really holds over the KA in terms of handling power on stock internals is its CR. Pistons are both cast aluminum.
As for rear ends, there aren't any R200 aftermarket designs. So..... Maybe a couple people have swapped out for Ford 9" or whatever they want, but for the most part, its stock and rock. You woudl worry about the stock transmission/u joints going before the rear end.
If you want your tranny to last, either don't lauch like hell on every run, or don't run crazy sticky tires. When you get down to running like 1.6 60's on a full weight car, stuff WILL start breaking.
And if you think modding the SR is like a breeze or something, you're wrong. Once you start going past the 250whp mark, its just as finicky as the KA. Detonation has no mercy on any engine. Longer stroke is usually more suseptable to damage from detonation, but no matter, your car will break with detonation present. Tuning just as important on any engine. People blow SRs completey stock, or trying to tune out fuel on 12psi setups, or on crazy setups. Doesn't matter. Same with KAs. Read read read. Don't let your skills limit yoru setup. Build it to your vision. If you don't know something, pick up a book or a video and learn.
Credit to Jesse James on that last part.lol
Want good ETs? Get some sticky ass tires, weld your diff, and dump the clutch. If you do weight reduction, 11s can be done on 250whp.
One benefit of the SOHC is it was offered with 8.6:1 CR. Head design was different tho. The only thing the SR really holds over the KA in terms of handling power on stock internals is its CR. Pistons are both cast aluminum.
As for rear ends, there aren't any R200 aftermarket designs. So..... Maybe a couple people have swapped out for Ford 9" or whatever they want, but for the most part, its stock and rock. You woudl worry about the stock transmission/u joints going before the rear end.
If you want your tranny to last, either don't lauch like hell on every run, or don't run crazy sticky tires. When you get down to running like 1.6 60's on a full weight car, stuff WILL start breaking.
And if you think modding the SR is like a breeze or something, you're wrong. Once you start going past the 250whp mark, its just as finicky as the KA. Detonation has no mercy on any engine. Longer stroke is usually more suseptable to damage from detonation, but no matter, your car will break with detonation present. Tuning just as important on any engine. People blow SRs completey stock, or trying to tune out fuel on 12psi setups, or on crazy setups. Doesn't matter. Same with KAs. Read read read. Don't let your skills limit yoru setup. Build it to your vision. If you don't know something, pick up a book or a video and learn.
Credit to Jesse James on that last part.lol
lilskyline240
10-24-2005, 10:50 PM
After going to an autox event and seeing one of the guys I know(orion) drive his car hard as hell, the KA can take so much abuse. His current setup has been turboed for approx. 1.5years and he drives the shit out of it at 12psi/300whp.
Want good ETs? Get some sticky ass tires, weld your diff, and dump the clutch. If you do weight reduction, 11s can be done on 250whp.
One benefit of the SOHC is it was offered with 8.6:1 CR. Head design was different tho. The only thing the SR really holds over the KA in terms of handling power on stock internals is its CR. Pistons are both cast aluminum.
As for rear ends, there aren't any R200 aftermarket designs. So..... Maybe a couple people have swapped out for Ford 9" or whatever they want, but for the most part, its stock and rock. You woudl worry about the stock transmission/u joints going before the rear end.
If you want your tranny to last, either don't lauch like hell on every run, or don't run crazy sticky tires. When you get down to running like 1.6 60's on a full weight car, stuff WILL start breaking.
And if you think modding the SR is like a breeze or something, you're wrong. Once you start going past the 250whp mark, its just as finicky as the KA. Detonation has no mercy on any engine. Longer stroke is usually more suseptable to damage from detonation, but no matter, your car will break with detonation present. Tuning just as important on any engine. People blow SRs completey stock, or trying to tune out fuel on 12psi setups, or on crazy setups. Doesn't matter. Same with KAs. Read read read. Don't let your skills limit yoru setup. Build it to your vision. If you don't know something, pick up a book or a video and learn.
Credit to Jesse James on that last part.lol
AMAZINGLY PUT^^^
Want good ETs? Get some sticky ass tires, weld your diff, and dump the clutch. If you do weight reduction, 11s can be done on 250whp.
One benefit of the SOHC is it was offered with 8.6:1 CR. Head design was different tho. The only thing the SR really holds over the KA in terms of handling power on stock internals is its CR. Pistons are both cast aluminum.
As for rear ends, there aren't any R200 aftermarket designs. So..... Maybe a couple people have swapped out for Ford 9" or whatever they want, but for the most part, its stock and rock. You woudl worry about the stock transmission/u joints going before the rear end.
If you want your tranny to last, either don't lauch like hell on every run, or don't run crazy sticky tires. When you get down to running like 1.6 60's on a full weight car, stuff WILL start breaking.
And if you think modding the SR is like a breeze or something, you're wrong. Once you start going past the 250whp mark, its just as finicky as the KA. Detonation has no mercy on any engine. Longer stroke is usually more suseptable to damage from detonation, but no matter, your car will break with detonation present. Tuning just as important on any engine. People blow SRs completey stock, or trying to tune out fuel on 12psi setups, or on crazy setups. Doesn't matter. Same with KAs. Read read read. Don't let your skills limit yoru setup. Build it to your vision. If you don't know something, pick up a book or a video and learn.
Credit to Jesse James on that last part.lol
AMAZINGLY PUT^^^
skriFF
10-25-2005, 12:33 AM
Wow, thanks for the awesome input guys. I'm really looking forward to this whole project. I think what I'm gonna do is just get a 240 with decent miles hopefully, and not really worry about it being SOHC or DOHC. Then add the T3/T04E turbo and all accessories.
Just to make sure, Im looking at a car at a dealer thats got approx 160K miles for around $1000. Is that stilll safe to run at ~10psi for a while?
Just to make sure, Im looking at a car at a dealer thats got approx 160K miles for around $1000. Is that stilll safe to run at ~10psi for a while?
lilskyline240
10-25-2005, 11:03 AM
Wow, thanks for the awesome input guys. I'm really looking forward to this whole project. I think what I'm gonna do is just get a 240 with decent miles hopefully, and not really worry about it being SOHC or DOHC. Then add the T3/T04E turbo and all accessories.
Just to make sure, Im looking at a car at a dealer thats got approx 160K miles for around $1000. Is that stilll safe to run at ~10psi for a while?
It all depends on how the motor is running...id say run like 7 just to be safe....until u build your bottom end up...or get bigger injectors and tune your ECU...
Just to make sure, Im looking at a car at a dealer thats got approx 160K miles for around $1000. Is that stilll safe to run at ~10psi for a while?
It all depends on how the motor is running...id say run like 7 just to be safe....until u build your bottom end up...or get bigger injectors and tune your ECU...
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