New pads rubbing

I put new pads on the front and rear of my 97 Aurora. I did all the correct stuff. compressing the calipers with the drain plugs open. I understand that Gm don't want the rotors turned. The front ones look as if they could use some turning. I let off on the parking brake cable.I could not find any kinks in the parking brake cable. I noticed when I tried to adjust the parking brakes, The resistance stayed about the same on the rear brakes. These are pads I purchased from a regular auto parts store. Is it possible that the pad material on the pads are too thick? The front wheels turns with not too much resistance. But it is the back ones that seems to be rubbing the most. I am thinking about replacing the rear calipers.

The pistons on the rear calipers need to be screwed in. I does not sound like you did that. The fronts will push in with a C-clamp. You don't need to open any "drain plugs". You must be talking about the bleeders on the inside of the calipers? Does your pedal resistance feel the same as before? Yopu may have gotten some air in the system by opening the bleeders.

Yes the resistance is about the same. I didn't know the rear calipers screw in. I used the Aurora manual for reference. I don't remember seeing anything about screwing those calipers in. Or I may have over looked that. I read some post here that you could open the bleeders while the calipers were compressed. But you had to close the bleeders before you took the pressure off of the C-clamp. I will go back and attempt to screw them in, no problem. Thanks S W.

That would work if you open them, apply pressure with the clamp, close the bleeder, then remove the clamp. I suppose that would also get some fresher fluid moved into the caliper.
There is a tool that fits into notches in the face of the piston and has a sqaure hole for a ratchet to fit in.

um, YEAH!! you should ALWAYS open the bleeder screws to compress the caliper! It keeps all the brake dust contaminated fluid in the calipers from being pushed back up into the master cylinder where it will get caught in the valves & make your master cylinder go bad. anyone who has rebuilt calipers has seen the nasty fluid that is in there & the residue that slips past the seals in the caliper. all that trash going back into the master cylinder when compressing the calipers without opening the bleeder screws is a death wish for your master cylinder.
OF COURSE, common sense has to be used when opening the bleeder screws(only with pressure on the piston so as not to get nair in & as you said, close it back before letting off of the c-clamp, & ALSO, position the caliper so that the bleeder screw is at the exact top of the caliper while bleeding out so any trapped air will escape, as any bubbles will be at the TOP of the caliper.) using a wrench to tap on the caliper helps draw any air bubbles out of there before you close the bleeder screw.fresh fluid in the calipers AND no trash in your master cylinder.
also, doing this from day 1 on all brake jobs helps keep your brake fluid looking almost clear in the master cylinder.

It was not the calipers. I slapped on some rebuilt ones and bled the brakes. I have good brakes, but I still have The rubbing. The auto parts store have the tool that screw the rear piston in. Its under $15 dollars. I think I am going to see if I can get the front rotors turned. The rear ones look fine. I may also replace the front bearings, since someone on The Aurora Club of North America web site, posted an illustrated guide on doing it, Kool.

I finally eliminated the front rubbing brakes. I also had a metalic noise, when my car rolled over small pot holes and stuff in the road. I replaced both rotors( they had worn to the point, where they couldn't be turned anymore). Installed 2 calipers. And replaced the simi-metalic pads with ceramic pads. And had the brakes bled.I get a very small amont of rubbing, I guess due to the break in period. Most of the parts came from a regular auto parts store. Because of this forum, I have saved big $$$bucks. Thanks fellow forumites.

Oh yeah, that metalic noise went away also.