Why decking the block after blowing headgaskets is important

And why Toyota/Lexus cheap out & don't do it when they repair head gaskets under warrent when Toyota picks up the tab is beyond me.
The cheap ass mother *u**e*s.
I have come to hate Toyota/Lexus dealer service. Lexus dealers charge many times in price hikes, while charging 50% labor consistantly. Toyota dealers just overcharge for stuff.

And neither give any better quality than anyplace else with an experienced mechanic, god forbid it's an honest one, it's not a contest.



Here's the front bank headgasket set #4 (To be followed later by the rear bank) with ARP head studs tightened 5lb-ft at a time, up to 100, or 105lb-ft (I forget), not the panzy 35-45 Toyota specifies that can't hold any power.






!¡iYepi¡!
Some of you have known for a month, but here's the first round of pics for the front head.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/BlownGasket-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/BlownGasket-1.jpg

The cool thing tho, is notice how a can of Seafoam (applied following their directions, in 1/3 of a can intervale - that's 2/3 of a cup - through the intake) Completely nuked the carbon from the combustion chambers.
(For people that don't know, disregard any fluid in any picture, it dumps in when you break the seal to the intake manifold & the cylinder heads - it is not due to leaking)
This time last year when I replaced the head gaskets the first time & did the head porting:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/Pistons.jpg


(Combustion chamber & valves after a 5hp pressure washer full out)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/RearHead.jpg




This time:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/FrontHead-1.jpg

Cyl #6 (Normal)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/Chamber-6.jpg

Cyl #4 (note the carbon build-up where the head gasket is blown)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/Chamber-4.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/BlockCylinderPiston-1.jpg

Cylinder #4

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/CylinderPiston-4.jpg

Cylinder #6

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/CylinderPiston-6.jpg



I've been off water injection for a while now. But you can see the MASSIVE amount of difference it can make just by looking at the combustion chamber -> Mint. The valve cutouts for the piston ->Spotless.

Water Injection PWNS
WI2WIN





Coolant + Oil + Exhaust + 80psi pump
=

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/DNoel/Car%20Pictures/BlownGasketOilCoolant.jpg

Somebody take that batter & make some muffins!

Have you thought about running Toyota genuine Red coolant (mixed with distilled water) rather than the green?
Ran green with tap water in my 20R engine and got the usual crusty grunge with reduced cooling.
Run the red with distilled water in the 5S-FE and everything stays pristine - like brand new.

You can't run Toyota Red on most of the older Toyota engines. The corrosion inhibitors quickly break down & attack ferrite metals (iron based) like crazy. That wouldn't be a nice thing on a 380lb slug of iron.


Pay attention. This is blowing head gaskets, not crungy coolant.

Have you thought about running Toyota genuine Red coolant (mixed with distilled water) rather than the green?
Ran green with tap water in my 20R engine and got the usual crusty grunge with reduced cooling.
Run the red with distilled water in the 5S-FE and everything stays pristine - like brand new.
Hello Daniel M. Dreifus,
maybe you had such good results with the red color coolant because you mixed it with distilled water compared to the green color coolant which you said was mixed with tap water. :confused: would that make a difference?

Regards,
JOET/CAMRY :feedback:

Good point JOET/CAMRY and Toysrme is correct about using the original green with the older (iron based) engines. They used different gasket and sealing materials also compared to the newer engines.

Toysrme, that's an impressive carbon removal job by seafoam. I might have to try it. Or maybe I should just invest in a water injection system. :wink:

Nice thread.

I'm pretty sure you have to pull the crank and pistons to deck the block. This would be so that you can wash out the oil gallerys, cylinders, water jackets etc after you machine it. That would add alot of expense - reason for not doing it if the block is within specs. Isn't it more likely that the head is warped, rather than the block?

If you have a good machinist you can do it in the bay by turning the crank to even the pistons.


I want them both done, but normally you do just the heads. Especially on an iron block, aluminum head setup.

Have you thought about running Toyota genuine Red coolant (mixed with distilled water) rather than the green?
Ran green with tap water in my 20R engine and got the usual crusty grunge with reduced cooling.
Run the red with distilled water in the 5S-FE and everything stays pristine - like brand new.Hello Daniel M. Dreifus,
maybe you had such good results with the red color coolant because you mixed it with distilled water compared to the green color coolant which you said was mixed with tap water. :confused: would that make a difference?

Regards,
JOET/CAMRY :feedback:

I just re-read the post by Daniel M. Dreifus and just realized :confused: :banghead: he didn't use the red coolant mixed with distilled water in his 5S-FE engine. he was just making a comment about using the red coolant in that particular engine and the good results from doing that. It sounds that way by the way it's worded anyhow. My apoligies Daniel M. Dreifus. :smile:

Does anyone know if I would have better results mixing the green color coolant with distilled water rather than mixing it with tap water? would that reduce/eliminate the crusty grunge? would the engine run somewhat cooler? :confused:
What year did Toyota start using the red color coolant?
:feedback:

Regards,
JOET/CAMRY

Coolant should always be mixed with distilled or deionized water and not tap water. The minerals and other things added to tap water interfer with the additives in the coolant and probably also cause problems with corrosion.