Help99gtp

FOR ALL OF YOU I OFFENDED WITH MY OTHER NAME ISTUCKURGIRL I CHANGED IT TO THIS ONE CBIERNIAT...YOUR WELCOME SO PLEASE HELP SEEMS LIKE ITS GETTIN WORSE AND WORSE


Ok...when i give my car more than like lets say 1/2 throttle my car shakes and seems like its bein held back or like somethings slipping and does not go anywhere which makes it extremely hard to pass anything even a damn ford aspire lol...the steering wheel starts to shake/vibrate. The SES comes on occasionally. Ive had the s/c coupler replaced..u-bend removed... i know its well over due for a tune up with 125k miles but it just started outta no where...it used to like chug when u gav it light steady gas but i put a fuel injector cleaner in it and it stopped a few k miles later it did it again i did the same and it didnt stop and evenutally did this...please help!!!!!!


ALL SUGGESTIONS AND OPINIONS WELCOME

I answered your other thread too, start with a tune-up: plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, PCV, then see what happens. If it doesn't help, then let us know and we can point you in other directions.

well what bout another 500-600 after the first one?

try starting a few more threads about it - it just might help...

What other information can you provide that may be helpful. Is your GTP stock or modded. Do you have a CAI or K&N drop in filter?

If you can get it to where the SES/CEL light stays on, get it scanned and see if there are any odb-ii DTC error codes. Codes of interest would be any misfire P030X, MAF sensor or throttle position sensor (TPS).

Does the SES light ever flash when the problem occurs?






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

No it does not flash itll just comeon...its been on now for a few days it was on and off every soo often...the only mod i have is the ubend replacement my car has 125k miles on it anything else??

No it does not flash itll just comeon...its been on now for a few days it was on and off every soo often...the only mod i have is the ubend replacement my car has 125k miles on it anything else??

The reason why I raised the SES light flashing is unless the PCM is braindead, 99.9% of the time a real misfire condition will cause the SES light to flash then go on steady. Then a P030X code should be stored which can be retrieved with a scanner. If you have an Autozone or similar nearby take it and get it scanned when the SES light is on.

The SES light is the most tangible fault indicator you have for now without it being a guessing game or wasting money on parts that may not fix the problem.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Oh yah and i forgot to mention it only does it when its in drive or reverse doesnt do it when its in park or neutral engine runs completely fine

Oh yah and i forgot to mention it only does it when its in drive or reverse doesnt do it when its in park or neutral engine runs completely fine

When was the last time the tranny was serviced....ATF and screen filter? Check the condition of the fluid and make sure it's not burnt. It should be a reddish color not brown or black. Sounds like you're getting excessive slippage.....torque convertor or clutch. You might have to get it to a tranny shop. Plus they can scan it and see if any DTC error codes are present. Certain tranny codes will trigger the SES light too.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

One thing you might want to check is the speed sensor on the transmission. I know this is a little far fetched but it can cause problems that are often mistaken for misfires or other engine problems. I don't know if this will correct the problem but you might give it a try to see what happens. It may just help!

If it had something to do with the transmission wouldnt it shift sluggish or funny? Cuz it shifts gears fine it just shakes and shimmys when i give it over 1/4 throttle...i put some more fuel injector cleaner in it and it runs a LITTLE better...but ive had myc ar since 94k miles and ithas 125k miles and i have not changed anything besides the oil, airfilter, and oil filter maintenance wise

Other than telling you it still sounds like a misfire condition as suggested don't know what else to tell you. Do you know where the MAF sensor is located? It's the black module with electrical connector on the top of the throttle body. Disconnect it and take it out for a spin and see what it does. If it doesn't change the symptoms just reconnect it and try the other suggestions above.

Also have you checked into the possibility of a fuel system problem. How old is the fuel filter? Plus you can check for proper fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator. Good luck!





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Without the codes here I don't think any of us, although everone here is try to help, should go any further with this, it's more like hand holding. Not butting in here, not judgemental, but as you read thru the posts this is what it seems to boil down to.

Without the codes here I don't think any of us, although everone here is try to help, should go any further with this, it's more like hand holding. Not butting in here, not judgemental, but as you read thru the posts this is what it seems to boil down to.

I agree. However, whether he wants to make it easy or hard which includes getting the PCM scanned is his problem, although it has already been suggested. I would have done that a long time ago. In the meantime everyone will probably continue to weigh until he gets totally confused. We can suggest but he has to execute and provide feedback. :biggrin:





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I went to autozone b4 when my car was messed up and my engine light was on...they gave me some code that had to do with my o2 sensor but when i took it in to a real shop they scanned it and said it was the supercharger coupler...so im not sure..ill go and get the code from them and get back with you guys thanks for you patience if i had some free money id get it fixed but im only 20 and just started my new job

And by the way my damn SES is back off so i gotta wait for it to come on to take it in :-( symptoms still persist

I went to autozone b4 when my car was messed up and my engine light was on...they gave me some code that had to do with my o2 sensor but when i took it in to a real shop they scanned it and said it was the supercharger coupler...so im not sure..ill go and get the code from them and get back with you guys thanks for you patience if i had some free money id get it fixed but im only 20 and just started my new job


Thanks for getting back with us. For a while I thought you were keeping us in suspense. lol. :lol2:

Yes, get the code(s) because that will be very helpful.

On the SC coupler are you getting any strange noises? When the coupler goes bad it will make a lot of racket.

It's understandable on your monetary resources but one thing is for sure the advice here is free and fairly sound.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

the MAF sensor is the one on the rubber betweent the throttle and the airbox right...cuz i tried disconnecting that one and drove raced it around and w/e and it seemed to run the same...it got a lil better czu i put some omre fuelinjectorcleaner in it and im put premium gas too...monday im goin to autzone to get it tested...is there anyway i can make the olight come on automaticaly incase it dont come back on???

Something similar happened to me twice. First time it was bad spark plug, 2nd time it was bad wire. Car was acting exactly the same like you described. Just suggestion...Good luck

the MAF sensor is the one on the rubber betweent the throttle and the airbox right...cuz i tried disconnecting that one and drove raced it around and w/e and it seemed to run the same...it got a lil better czu i put some omre fuelinjectorcleaner in it and im put premium gas too...monday im goin to autzone to get it tested...is there anyway i can make the olight come on automaticaly incase it dont come back on???


Nice try but no, wrong sensor. You got the IAT (Intake Air Temp.) sensor. For the MAF, undo the plastic cover over the supercharger. Where the ducting from the air intake ends to the left is the throttle body which has the MAF, idle air controller and throttle position sensors. You can't miss it. On top of the throttle body is the MAF sensor. It's about 2 X 2 inches with an electrical connector. It may or may not fix the problem but at least it can be ruled out. They do go bad.

You'll probably need to wait until you get a SES light or odb-ii DTC error codes that trigger the light. Keep us posted. Good luck!





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I got the coupler fixed a while back...i was just using that from past experience with autozones ses reader...but iw as idling rough and dark black smoke out the exhaust...but there is some racket under the hood...me and my dad replaced 2 pulleys but sounds like its comin from one of the very two bottom ones...the a/c and crank( gets extremely loud when a/c is on)...already replaced idler and tensioner

Sounds like your noise is an A/C compressor going south. Since the noise changes when the A/C is engaged, that's where I'd look.

To answer your question concerning the speed sensor in the transmission, the computer relies on the speed sensor to gain specific information and make corrections to the engine functions. Transmission shifts aren't the only functions of the speed sensor and when they start to go bad some of the first manifestations of a problem are with the engine. Most of the other folks probably won't concur with my theory but I have seen this happen on several occasions and once the sensor was changed the problems went away. Just some food for thought.

To answer your question concerning the speed sensor in the transmission, the computer relies on the speed sensor to gain specific information and make corrections to the engine functions. Transmission shifts aren't the only functions of the speed sensor and when they start to go bad some of the first manifestations of a problem are with the engine. Most of the other folks probably won't concur with my theory but I have seen this happen on several occasions and once the sensor was changed the problems went away. Just some food for thought.

Anythings possible GTPDad. But in this case it would be nice to see some generic or manufacturer specific odb-ii DTC error codes. Just my 2 cents. :2cents:





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I agree that codes would be very helpful! Usually they will point toward one or more items that are causing the problems.

ok my ses light came on while i was goin to hte gym and i hurried up and went to autozone they said the only thing it was sayin was missfire in cylinder 1....told me i needed a tune up...but why would it only be sluggish in drive and reverse not neutral?....how easy is it to fix hlep pleasee

ok my ses light came on while i was goin to hte gym and i hurried up and went to autozone they said the only thing it was sayin was missfire in cylinder 1....told me i needed a tune up...but why would it only be sluggish in drive and reverse not neutral?....how easy is it to fix hlep pleasee

Go with it. Its typically a bad spark plug or ignition wire. In your case Cylinder #1. Replace all plugs and wires as suggested. Misfires will make you it look like you have a tranny problem and in drive or reverse your engine is under a load. Your code was probably P0301.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

about how much am i lookin to spend on parts if i do it myself and what kind should i get...then at a shop how much would that cost?

about how much am i lookin to spend on parts if i do it myself and what kind should i get...then at a shop how much would that cost?

On spark plugs go with AC Delco 41-101 Iridiums. Around $40 for 6.

On wires the 7mm OEM AC Delco Packards are probably the best but run around $60.00 for the complete set.

A shop will charge similar on parts but hit you up for labor. Good luck!








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

i herad the front ones are easy...how easy are the back ones???

i herad the front ones are easy...how easy are the back ones???

PITA. Best thing to do is tilt the motor forward which will give you clearance to work. You can loosen the bolts holding the front engine mounts by the radiator. And it can be done with the right tools and patience without tilting the motor.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

So it's bad spark plug?? Don't be afraid to tilt engine. It's really easy and helps a lot

It flashed today? The ses light

It flashed today? The ses light
My SES was blinking everytime I was accelerating or going up the hill. Engine doesn't have enough power with one cylinder not working and like you said, you can feel it. Check or just replace spark plugs and wires. First time it took me about 3h, but next time I did it in not more than hour. Just don't forget about anti-seize compound for new spark plug threads (aluminium cylinder heads). I rotate engine using ratcheting straps, you just have to remove those two bolts in the frontand pull engine to the front. Just 3 -4 inches make work much easier. Good luck

I was able to get to the back plugs in my 98 GTP without too much trouble yesterday without rotating the engine...

just need various ratchet extensions --> and a swivel socket

Oh, also, while I was back there, I noticed that my O2 sensor right there was very loose (could hand screw it out) -- taking it out made it much easier to get to the cylinder 6 (drivers side, back) plug... but the O2 sensor would have been difficult to tighten back in without a crow's foot socket I think

also noticed while changing my oil that my old filter was loose and was dripping a little oil - hopefully thats the only reason I've been 'consuming/leaking' oil lately...

edit: also, you probably don't want to do it on a warm/hot engine...

thANKS YOU GUYS

Try the spark plugs. I had a '90 Grand Prix that would violently shake around 45-50 if i tried to aggressively accelerate. It was especially bad when going uphill. Once I replaced the spark plugs it never shook again, until I took down some fence posts with it, but that's another story. ~ Neekus


Ok...when i give my car more than like lets say 1/2 throttle my car shakes and seems like its bein held back or like somethings slipping and does not go anywhere which makes it extremely hard to pass anything even a damn ford aspire lol...the steering wheel starts to shake/vibrate. The SES comes on occasionally. Ive had the s/c coupler replaced..u-bend removed... i know its well over due for a tune up with 125k miles but it just started outta no where...it used to like chug when u gav it light steady gas but i put a fuel injector cleaner in it and it stopped a few k miles later it did it again i did the same and it didnt stop and evenutally did this...please help!!!!!!


ALL SUGGESTIONS AND OPINIONS WELCOME[/QUOTE]