1g tb swap

sup fellas just put the 1g turbo tb on my 2g gsx. im having trouble adjusting the TPS. ive done everything RRE instructions say but cant get a voltage signal out of the TPS. when i start teh car, it immediatly revs up to 3-4k and then goes down to 1.5k then back up and keeps this pattern constantly but eventually dies down and goes between 1k and 2k. any ideas?>???

alright so after messing with it and looking up vfaq info i adjusted the TPS enough to get the idle to sit at a constant RPM but that rpm is 2.4k with the BISS fully closed. i swapped the IAC from my 2g to the 1g tb and that had no effect. the vfaq says to get .9ohms closed adn then fully open it should go to 5.0 but the MOST i can get fully open is 4.4 and when i set it on .9 it moves to like 1.2 after a few throttle sweeps. any suggestions>>>>??

Maybe the TPS is junk, hard to tell from here. Actually, you did swap over the 2g TPS right? The 1g TPS doesnt have the output for the throttle closed switch (which is why it has 3 pins instead of 4). The ECU won't go into closed loop idle speed control without this signal.

the TPS is good it was on my 2g. i found out that the 1g tb used the tb plate stopper to signal instead of the 4 pin 2g tps which has one built in it.

when i adjusted it like RRE said i kept the 1g sender/stopper on and used a .45mm feeler guage which is maby why it didnt work before. i will try adjusting it like RRE without the stopper installed and hopefully it will work.

btw what does it mean when RRE says, " turn until point where continutiy and non continutiy is reached." im assumming that this means get the ohmn meter to read 0? kevin if you dont mind could you post some instructions on how to adjust the 2g TPS on a 1g tb? or if you did it like RRE then dont worry about it. vfaq and RRE have totally different directions so im kinda lost on which path to take.

I have always used a logger. I set it to just barely read 0% with the throttle closed. I never cared what the ohms/volts were, just how the ECU "saw" it.

ok. but where is the point of continuity meeting non continuity?

messed with it some more and think i got it as good as it will get. didnt use a feller gauge though. now its going from 1500 rpms to 2000 rpms back and forth at idle. had a buddy log it and it read 0% at closed and 97% at fully open. i will check for vac leaks tomorrow and then have him log it while i adjust the TPS to barley be at 0% on the log. i guess you make it barley read 0% so you get as much (97-100%) when its fully open?

just curious: are there 2 parts to the TPS to swap? i mean i used the TPS you unbolt but are you supposed to remove the "female" portion to it that sits inside the 1g TB?

btw i removed all emissions going to the TB could this be part of my problem? any help is needed cuz this is starting to piss me off

THe TPS just swaps over, not sure what part you mean. 0 at idle and 97% at WOT is certainly acceptable, and you have the right idea. In removing the emissions stuff did you inadvertently leave any vacuum leaks? That would explain idle problems better than a bad TPS setting... How did you block off the nipples on the top of the TB?

i just capped them off and left the sensors plugged in and open. will check for vac leaks today. thanks for the help ill post results tonight

found a moderate leak on the tb shaft. doubt thats enough to cause the idle hunt but im going to hot tank the tb and replace the shaft seals. thanks for the help

It's not uncommon for 1g TBs to have bad ISCs and FIAVs. The ISCs are interchangeable, but I dont think the FIAVs are. I had to swap my known good 2g ISC into my 1g TB IIRC.

alright well i left the idle hunt alone for a while and drove the car normally, with an occasional pull here and there. all of a sudden, the car idled right and has ever since. when its cold it idles high but thats due to no emissions im guessing. anybody know why the idle hunt is gone now? there are only so many things the computer can "learn" and mabye that will help me find the original problem. so as of right now my car idles/ drives fine

btw whats an FIAV and whats a 1g tb IIRC

FIAV is Fast Idle Air Valve, it's what opens up when the coolant is cold to allow more air to bypass the throttle plate and raise idle rpm until it's warmed up.

IIRC - stands for "If I Remember Correctly." It's a bit of a discalaimer ;) These acronyms used to be as common as LMAO, but poeple seem to be so busy trying to think of ways to save a single keystroke by completely screwing up a normal word they've all been forgotten :icon16:

The ECU has short and long term trims for the ISC position. It most likely made adjustments to that to get idle under control. Which works fine, but just like having fuel trims at 110%, it's not exactly ideal. But it works, so go with it. :)

thanks for the help kevin. i looked everywhere and finally automotiveforums told me the answer