'95 Maxima-Stalls-No code

Max began stalling once in while when warm. After restarting, it idled poorly or not at all. Sometimes by turning ignition completely off then restarting, it would run okay for a while. It became more frequent over a period of a couple of months. I checked the OBD for codes and found codes for the knock sensor and an intermittant miss in #2. I reset the OBD and even though the problem worsened it wouldn't pull a code again. I took it to the dealer, who had it for 2 weeks, replaced the O2 sensor, gave it back to me and the car had 3 episodes of running very poorly on the way home (2 miles), now has a steady miss and then stalled in my garage and wouldn't idle. I'm taking it back tomorrow, but I'm getting frustrated. I've spent $450 already without any results.

TWO WEEKS LATER---- Thank you all!! The problem was the MAFS. I paid $75 at junk yard. Runs great again.

... spent $450 already without any results.

1. Dont take it there. Clearly with THE 450$ poof, theres nobody who can troubleshoot; always lots ppl who can/will charge...

2. "3 episodes of running very poorly on the way home (2 miles)" If you started it from cold, then most probably TPS is bad; 90$, easy DIY change with 2screws. The -94 FSM manual or autozone.com will tell how. Check 'Favorite Links' -at my CDomain site. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 ...Page six explains the TPS on -93 VG, very similar to yours, location differs.

3. Possibly u have two or more problems. IACV for idle (see p.4) , also easy DIY with few screws and cleanup, plus possibly MAF if the problem is only warm. Buy spare one from junkyard, swap 15minutes, dont pay that MAF stealership 750$.


When were plugs/coilpacks changed? (and I mean REAL change, not stealer$hip -charged)? Cashier charges always, sometimes service ppl take new plugs home, you still have old plug$...

.

Max began stalling once in while when warm. After starting idled poorly or not at all. Sometimes by turning ingnition completely off then restarting it would run okay for a while. It became more frequent over a period of a couple of months. I checked the OBD for codes and found codes for the knock sensor and an intermittant miss in #2. I reset the OBD and even though the problem worsened it wouldn't pull a code again. I took it to the dealer, who had it for 2 weeks, replaced the O2 sensor, gave it back to me and the car had 3 episodes of running very poorly on the way home (2 miles), now has a steady miss and then stalled in my garage and wouldn't idle. I'm taking it back tomorrow, but I'm getting frustrated. I've spent $450 already without any results.


Sounds like my car! Did they check the coolant sensor?

Sounds like my car! Did they check the coolant sensor?
That's interesting that you should mention that. I have noticed sometimes the engine temp doesn't rise much, but I thought it was the thermostat sticking open because on cold days the heater didn't put out like I thought it should. Do you think it could be a related problem? and how does coolant temp cause such a runabilty issue? Answering your question, I don't believe they did. Thanks for your reply.

Well, I'm certainly no expert, but the reason I responded was because you mentioned knock sensors & o2 sensors. Those were out of whack along with the coolant sensor in my car. Apparently, the engine was overheating (unbeknownst to me, since the thermostat never indicated it) and in an act to preserve itself, the car kept turning itself off. It obviously effects runability, because if it cuts off while driving or won't start up, where are you going? I especially had the problem when the car was idling (heating up, sitting a traffic light)... Anyway, it was cheap to replace ($85 part/labor) and the cutting off has stopped. The check engine light is still on, so I'll have to get the knock & o2 sensors... consider yourself lucky... they've estimated that I will spend over $900 (parts & labor) for each (combined)! Nahkapohjola suggested that I buy the parts online, which I am definitely going to do. I'll just have to suck up the labor costs.

Thanks for the info. I have a Nissan manual and will definitely check you the TPS and MAF. Answering your question bout the plugs, those I replaced last month which didn't improve runabilty. The coil packs haven't been changed.

[QUOTE=anywhereusa]Well, I'm certainly no expert, but the reason I responded was because you mentioned knock sensors & o2 sensors. Those were out of whack along with the coolant sensor in my car. Apparently, the engine was overheating (unbeknownst to me, since the thermostat never indicated it) and in an act to preserve itself, the car kept turning itself off. It obviously effects runability, because if it cuts off while driving or won't start up, where are you going? I especially had the problem when the car was idling (heating up, sitting a traffic light)... Anyway, it was cheap to replace ($85 part/labor) and the cutting off has stopped. The check engine light is still on, so I'll have to get the knock & o2 sensors... consider yourself lucky... they've estimated that I will spend over $900 (parts & labor) for each (combined)! Nahkapohjola suggested that I buy the parts online, which I am definitely going to do. I'll just have to suck up the labor costs.[/QUOTE=Jimbolia]
I saw new OEM knock sensors on ebay 2 weeks ago. That auction has ended but he had 150 of them, selling them individually. Maybe he has them relisted. He wanted $75, that's half what the stealership wanted. Good Luck

I saw new OEM knock sensors on ebay 2 weeks ago. That auction has ended but he had 150 of them, selling them individually. Maybe he has them relisted. He wanted $75, that's half what the stealership wanted. Good Luck

Thanks for the info. I have a Nissan manual and will definitely check you the TPS and MAF. ...

TPS resistance change has to be gradual when throttle moves. Also, the AutoTranny uses TPS: its highly likely to have A/T gear change problems if TPS is faulty.

Bying used MAF is real cheap tst itself - compared to let the Nobel candidates touch u eye apple...

Knock Sensor change means lots work, other are easy DIY with proper tools.

I know I can't do it myself... nor do I know anyone (outside of my mechanic) who can! How many knock sensors do I need (how many does my car require)? They told me they won't just change one, but all o2 sensors and I think the car has 4... true? Would it be cheaper for me to buy the o2 sensors online as well?

I saw the 'sale' on ebay. He only has 5 left. Are they new? Are they guaranteed? I've never purchased anything from ebay before (although I'm an avid online shopper) & am not too familiar with its policies. I keep thinking someone will rip me off...

I really want to get a tune up (before it gets cold). Can the sensors wait until I do or is it a priority? The car is starting to ride kind of rough...

... starting to ride kind of rough...

What is the engine type (VE30DE)? My hands on experience is on my -93 VG30E...
1. Ask your mech. If he cannot say, dont go there.
2. Try to figure out from the Manual.
3. My guess is: 3 pcs O2 sensors, 1 KnockS (dont trust me here).

I would buy only from reputed shop with Visa... u should get half price compared to stealership. E-bay: Maybe u pay, and receive a brick? Is there any warranty? I guess not. Lots ppl still buy from there...

As long as the engine runs, no harm done. Just lose some gas.
Knock Sensor KS will not cause any stutter. If its bad, ign is retarded, loss of power, low mpg.

So whattodo: buy ONE O2 sensor based on what self diag says. Try that; what happens. No help? Change back, try another O2 position... I dont know if the O2 sensor connectors are interchangeable, smbdy here said (seek) that they may be modded so you may tst with one sensor all 3. It is highly unlikely that all 3 sensors commit 3-pact suicide with KS. pay as u go, one step at a time (stealership surely does not like $low pace). O2 sensor swap should be 15 minutes.

Buy the MAF from junkyard with refund/one week warranty. Why not the tst O2 also?

.

A friend's 95 maxima, went through 10 months of randomly stalling until the mass air flow sensor was finally changed. Her father caused most of the delay by telling her that only a dealer could fix it properly... she didn't have the $2300 the dealer wanted... so she waited. I finally bought a used one for $40 and she drove the car 300 miles to my home.
The swap took about 15 - 30 minutes. No codes were set during any of the failures (poor running, stalling, gas smell while driving).

A friend's 95 maxima, went through 10 months of randomly stalling until the mass air flow sensor was finally changed. Her father caused most of the delay by telling her that only a dealer could fix it properly... she didn't have the $2300 the dealer wanted... so she waited. I finally bought a used one for $40 and she drove the car 300 miles to my home.
The swap took about 15 - 30 minutes. No codes were set during any of the failures (poor running, stalling, gas smell while driving).

Thanks 2cents, bought MAFS at junk yard for $75. Run purrrfectly now. More importanly my wife is very pleased. I wish I knew why the malfunction of the MAFS didn't pull a code. For awhile there I was thinking that something was wrong with my CPU.

Thanks 2cents, bought MAFS at junk yard for $75. Run purrrfectly now. More importanly my wife is very pleased. I wish I knew why the malfunction of the MAFS didn't pull a code. For awhile there I was thinking that something was wrong with my CPU.


Please let me know how to get part from Junk Yard. I mighnt need MAFS part for my Maxima , similar symtoms.. with my car .. pl let me know how to find part in Junk yar in my area...

Thanks

SP

Please let me know how to get part from Junk Yard. I mighnt need MAFS part for my Maxima , similar symtoms.. with my car .. pl let me know how to find part in Junk yar in my area...

Thanks

SP
You should have several junk yards in your area. Just look in the yellow pages. They usually diversify (some carry just japanese or maybe trucks etc.) Call around and get a price quote. Just ask for a "mass flow sensor for your make and model of vehicle). You can also look on ebay, I've seen them there, but I was afraid of the return policies in case of a defect part. They are also remanufactured and can be purchased at auto parts (around $200) stores with a core exchange charge. Good Luck.