Turbo Engine

I have an average amount of knowledge about performance. I am about to do a motor swap in my '90 CRX Si. I have 2 desirers/wants for the swap. First i want a b16. I like the motor. The redline is rediculous. Second i want turbo no matter what motor i get when i do the swap.

The question im having is what is the best stock honda motor for around $2500 for a complete swap? I've heard the b16 has week rods that cant handle boost.

I was thinking about taking a my D16a6 with a blown head, and sleeving the block, getting high compression pistion and rods and then buying a d16z6 head. Basically i was thinking about 'beefin' up a mini-me swap. Would this be a good motor to run 15-20 psi? Even if my block wouldnt be good since i blew my head. (its not the motor....i've looked at it and had a few ppl that work at the shop i goto look at it and we've determined its the head not the whole motor.)

every b series motor can handle around the same hp before they blow, idk about b20s though

That website has a lot of info.

Im not worried about all b series motors. If any b series motor i would put in a b16. If i could come up with another G i would probably get a B18c1.

Does anyone know if a sleeved d16 block could handle 15-18 psi. The turbo set up im going with is more than likely going to be a T3/T4 hybrid or a Garret T25 turbo.

The reason im thinkin about using a d16 block instead of buying a b16 is that i am going to build the block. Sleeves, pistons, and rods. I want a motor that can handle boost.

Build the D, it's cheaper that way. There is a big difference between the T3/T4's and the T25. The T25 is a lot smaller, and it good mostly for low-to-mid range power and torque. As a matter of fact, the T25 will max out around 16psi. The T3/T4 is better for mid-to-high end power. PSI doesn't mean anything when you're comparing a small and a large turbo.

Yeah i know the T25 is a smaller turbo but if need be i will settle for that. and thank you i didnt know the T25 was mainly for low-to-mid range. i want a turbo that is for mid-to-high so im goin just for the T3/T4.

All together i dont think Building my D16 is cheaper than a B16. I can get a B16 to the shop and in my car for$3200. I think either motor will be about the same cost.

I ment that the d16 will be cheaper to build than building a b16 to handle boost. And that a built engine will be able to handle boost a lot better than an engine in stock form (as long as it's tuned properly of course).

You can always go for a LS motor (my personal favorite turbo candidate for honda) ... if you dont have the money just like everyone says go for the turbo D16..

if you go d series, dont cheap out on parts

im not gona cheap out on parts. i started finding all the parts i need for my block d16A6 and im at $2900. Thats with Iron ductile sleeves, piston, rods, valves, springs and retainers, and thats all i priced so far. what other things would i need to make my motor hold 18 psi on a T3/T4 turbo. not hp but psi. psi effects the motor differently then hp does so im not gona throw out a hp. and its gona be a T3/T4 turbo nothing smaller.

whew 18psi is a lot for a D series but it can be done...is this a daily driver? if so how much do you plan on boosting daily?

psi effects the motor differently then hp does so im not gona throw out a hp. and its gona be a T3/T4 turbo nothing smaller.

in a sense it does effect it differently but more of an accurate way to tell you how much power your parts can handle and what size injectors youll need, etc, etc we would need a hp rating not psi number. because psi can be very different between turbos and also 2 motors at the same psi level may not put out the same hp.

lets say for example, i asked you do you think a ls motor could handle 14psi of boost ? do you think it could ?

My CRX isnt going to be a daily driver. I have a SUV that i would drive mainly. I would only want to boost 18 psi (around 150 hp) when i was racing at the track or racing someone for money (no judgements if you think street racing is good or bad)

It depends what turbo was on the ls. if it was a t20 or t25 then 14 psi might work a lil might could still blow the motor. If the turbo was a T3 or bigger than no i dont think it would handle 14 psi on stock internals.

thats why im not going to with stock internals. and i like how you guys arnt buggin out (it dont seem like you are if you really are) about this. just correct me if im wrong so i learn. good lookin out.

ahh you see, a t3/t4 on an ls at 14psi would make about 300whp and the motor can handle that stock. anyways on a d16a6 boosting 18psi probably around 270whp running 12s. thats my educated guess.

but what youll need since yoru sleeving it. new sleeves, rods, pistons, valves, springs, retainers. what would be good but you dont need is a cam, intake mani, bored out tb all help you get more air into yoru motor

aight thats word. i am gettin sleeves, rods, pistons, valves, springs and retainers. im not gettin a cam yet im gona wait until i get the turbo put on and that will be next. im still trying to find a place that has bored out intake manifold and tb. i would like to get a d16z6 intake manifold and tb since im goin to but the z6 head on. i thought there was more parts i would need but i guess i was wrong.

what are some of the better and best parts i can get. im getting iron ductile sleeves and eagle rods. what are some good pistions, valves (i know i need stainless), springs and retainers?

Another good thing about the turbo D16 is that it will make more torque than the B16. Well I cant say that for sure but I have read somwhere that the turbo d series makes more torque but it cant flow air as well on the top end so it dosent make as much hp.

that is a very general comment because you cant put similar number on it. for instance, it will make more tq, at the same psi ? with the same turbo ? same mods ?

the d would be a cheaper way to go and it can still make a lot of power....but the high compression may not be the best idea ever....


www.turbod16.com

Everyone keeps saying that the d16 is a cheaper way to go. im not to sure. the way i'm seein prices add up i think it might be a little cheaper to drop in a b16 with a t3/t4 turbo and run low boost and still have around the same hp. the b16 already has 34 hp more than a d16z6 stock. and im not worried about the money. i wana make a reliable motor that i can run high boost on.

will the stock cams be able to handle 150 hp from the turbo. (assuming the t3/t4 gives 8 hp per psi if may be more) atleast for 6 months or around 6000 miles.

i will be gettin new cams along with a fuel managment system, oil pump, fuel rail, fpr, cam gears, and injectors but that will not be for a few months after i get the turbo put on.

i guess cheaper is a relative term.....if you want over 220whp on the D, you have to build....The B can handle more and it would be easier to assemble the turbo kit when the engine is outside of the car, but the B is also $2000. That same $2k could be used to beef up the d block and dump in some new internals. If you spent the same amount of money on each, you'd have more potential w/ the B, but it would be cheaper up to about 300whp to go w/ the D.......i say all of this and drive a B series!

well look at it this way. you build your d or buy a b for around the same price. now the b can handle 300whp stock internals but your built d can handle 500whp if you want to turn up the boost. but then you could also build a b and turbo that and make alot more power at a lower psi than the d

i'm building a d16z6 and it cost $1248+ some change for endyn(theoldone.com) rollerwave FI pistons, crower rods(they are costly but easier i'll explain later) and rings made for the pistons.

just send your crank to them to get balanced, it can handle anything you throw at it. it cost about $800 to get the block sleeved. this setup got my friend well over the 450hp mark with a sc61 turbo. kms engineering makes an excellent kit to build your head (valves,springs, retainers,valve seals and a block gaurd)$599. (http://www.honda-performance.com/valve-train.asp) just buy this kit and throw the blockgaurd on ebay. i got around $90 for it can't remember off the top of my head. use new stock honda bearings through the whole motor or it will become a headache.