Automatic Transmission oil change nightmare

Well it was not made aware to me the fluid capacities given in Chilton/Haynes repair manuals are only for “Pan Removal” (10 pints) and not for a COMPLETE change “Overhaul” (22 pints).

The truck is jacked up the pan off and a big mess on the ground. So what’s the point of draining out 10 pints of old used and adding 10 pints of new synthetic to 12 pints of old used ATF? Exactly!

QUESTION: Is there a way to rid the other 12 pints of used ATF? Can I start the truck while jacked up and pan off and press the brake and shift through the gears? Can I get a manual pump and hook it to the filter inlet and pump it out? Can I blow compressed air through the Transmission dip stick pipe to force it out?
Will this destroy the transmission?
OR do I need to put it back together and bring it in and pay $250 to get professionally done?

PLEASE HELP!

Don't start up your truck ever without the pan and oil in it. If you did, better get ready to pull your tranny...it would be time for a rebuild. The extra fluid your talking about is in your torque convertor, and the only way to get that out is to do a flush. To do completely right, tak it in and have a a flush done. A flush should cost no more than $150, even thats high. Thats the only way to get 100% new fluid in the tranny.

personally, I recommend replacing the pan fluid and filter only. however, complete replacement can be done:

... drop pan, change filter, reinstall. Measuring the old fluid in pan into a milk bottle type container, install that amount of new ATF back into transmission. Disconnect BOTH ATF cooler lines at radiator and place a container or pan under each line end (helps to have an assistant). Start engine, shut down after 1 or 2 quarts have come out one of the lines. Refill exact amount of fresh fluid in transmission (this keeps air out of the system).

Start engine again and repeat until clean fluid is coming out of cooler line. This is messy and time consuming but will purge all old ATF from transmission and torque converter. Reinstall cooler lines and start car, cycle through gears, place in park and check level per owners manual. Check for leaks. Top up as necessary after driving and heated up. Don't overfill.





Well it was not made aware to me the fluid capacities given in Chilton/Haynes repair manuals are only for “Pan Removal” (10 pints) and not for a COMPLETE change “Overhaul” (22 pints).

The truck is jacked up the pan off and a big mess on the ground. So what’s the point of draining out 10 pints of old used and adding 10 pints of new synthetic to 12 pints of old used ATF? Exactly!

QUESTION: Is there a way to rid the other 12 pints of used ATF? Can I start the truck while jacked up and pan off and press the brake and shift through the gears? Can I get a manual pump and hook it to the filter inlet and pump it out? Can I blow compressed air through the Transmission dip stick pipe to force it out?
Will this destroy the transmission?
OR do I need to put it back together and bring it in and pay $250 to get professionally done?

PLEASE HELP!

The reason I ‘need’ to do a complete flush is because I want to rid the transmission of regular oil and change over to synthetic. Can this be done using the method above or would the oils mix?

Why is it necessary to disconnect both ATF cooler lines if ATF is only supposed to purge from one? Is this to eliminate trial and error?

So using this method I can purge all the ATF mineral based oil and do a complete transition to synthetic ATF?

Thanks for the quick response you guys.

Another problem came up! After spending 45mins trying to remove the oil filter seal, I realized that it has an inner metal ring incased in rubber. I bent it with a flathead screwdriver and finally removed it with pliers.

I ‘installed’ the new filter, but realizing what a pain it was to remove I decided to dry fit the oil pan to see if the filter was fully installed. Well the pan does not entirely fit because the oil filter is not in all the way. I turned it back and forth as I pushed up, and it seems at the point where it is appears fully seated. I can push it in my hardest and it goes no further. If I try to remove the filter the seal slips of the filter because it’s very snug in its housing.

Does it really require this much force? I did put ATF on the seal before I installed it. Is this because it’s -1C and the metal housing has contracted. Can I remove the filter and use a punch and hammer it in?

Alright problem fixed!

I put in the old filter used a tire iron pry bar and used the exhaust header as a fulcrum and pried the filter up which, thank god, fully seated the seal. This bent up the old filter. Pulled out the old filter and installed the new one.

Maybe next time I’ll reuse the old filter gasket...

Well better get back at her before that snow starts pilling up.

I use a method similar to flush my system. Have use it a number of times, works well. Instead of unhooking both lines, I unhook one(return line), and install a screw in adapter that is used for installing a transmission cooler. Basically a small pc of line with a flare and screw in fitting. I attach a hose to this adapter, and then drop the pan, replace filter, clean pan and magnet and reassemble. I then put in 4 qts of fluid (or 3, based on normal fill for pan) and start up.The vehicle is run through the gears while pumping old fluid out, and the new fluid from the pan flushes and replaces the old stuff. When the pre-marked bucket reaches its mark the engine is turned off, and pan refilled. Do this 3-4 times and you have flushed totally. Only takes a couple minutes of actual run time. Then attach the line and top off if needed. I learned this from a now defunct Explorer page that was very good. Too bad is was om a College web site, (Maryland I think). It was dropped after a couple of years... Have used it on Fords and GM's with no trouble whatsoever. Would advise anyone changing filters to be sure you are getting the best quality possible. Some come with a lousy seal, not like OEM. Usually more than one stocked at most parts stores. Get the better ones. On my 93 Blazer the Advance stores stock a cheapo and a better one that has the good rubber seal.