Electrical Problem?

My 95 eclipse rs died on me this morning, I've always had a check engine light on my car since I bought it a few years ago, we got it all checked out and came with a code that had to do with the secondary air management. We could never figure it out so we left it alone. When I drive my car the check engine light will randomly go off at times, and come back on. When this happens the car will sometimes jerk forward and back, and then drive fine. Usualy when I first get it running in the mornings will it do that a couple of times. So I was leaving for work this morning and it felt like my car was about to jerk, but instead the speedometer and rpm gauge all droped down to zero instantly, and the gas pedal was doing nothing. So I came to a stop but the car still ran a good 5-10 seconds after my gauges went to zero. When it cut off, I tried multiple times to start it back up, but it would only turn over. Later today I checked all the wirings I could see, I took out the ECU and
clipped it back in - only the bolt in the middle that screws it on tight broke in half, but I clipped the plastic cap back over the ECU, cleaned off the battery, and checked all of the belts. I sprayed some starting fluid to help crank it up, it almost started twice but would clonk out before it could catch. There's enough oil, plenty of gas, checked all the spark plugs and wire, everything looks fine. I was told I might need a coil pack, or I might need a new electronic module to get it running again. If you have any ideas or suggestions on what it could be or things to check and try out, please throw them at me because I'm open
for anything.

Anyone?!?!

My fuel pump just seems to not work at all... so now I'm looking for the relay/fuse for it, but under each fuse box it shows nothing for fuel. I did find 2 relays under my hood in the corner driver side, with wires leading somewhere else - I believe the firewall. I also found 2 other relays above the fuse box near the foot pedals, but they have no wires leading out of them. so if someone could tell me what these relays are for or more importantly where the fuel pump relay is, it will help a lot.

I found where my fuel pump relay was, and replaced it twice. Either all the relays do not work, or it's something else causing it. So I'm guessing it's either the fuel pump itself - which looks perfectly fine. Or the ECU not giving off the command for it to start. Any other ideas let me know.

I really have no idea what's wrong with your car, but it's good to see someone working through the process of finding out, and posting back. Keep it up :sunglasse , you'll figure it out sooner or later. Good luck.

Come to find out I had a rotten fuel line hose for my fuel pump, that crumbled somewhere along the process of putting my fuel pump back in my tank. I got all that replaced, hooked everything back up and still I get nothing. I messed around with the relays some more but they all seem fine. I do not believe I'm getting any fuel into my engine still, but how do I test it without having to fuck with the fuel pump itself? Also, could my fuel filter be causing something to go wrong? The last thing I can think of that would deal with my fuel would be my fuel rail and fuel injectors, or maybe even my ECU could cause fuel problems? If any of that would cause me problems please let me know, and anything else fuel related that I can check.

On my 95 eclipse what other year eclipse or car uses the same fuel pump as mine? Because I plan on just going to a junk yard and picking one up and also replacing the fuel filter with it, also how do you check if your car is getting any spark?

From what I understand about the wiring of a car - it's like a big circle and if one wire, sensor, or something is unpluged, shorted, or broken then whatever that certain part is that should give power to the next part will end up breaking the circle, so everything after that broken part will not work or catch fire. I just got a test light for fire and spark, everything I tested I made sure the key was in the "on" position and some I even tried while turning over the car, first thing I tested was the fuel pump wiring and I get no fire. I move along and see if there is any spark on the coil pack... nothing. So I check the wire that clips onto the coil pack and what I think leads to the ECU, and there is no power going to it either. I check some wires that clip onto other things, some get fire some do not. The fuses are all okay as well, and I'm pretty sure all the relays are doing good also, I know the 2 under the hood are, and the 2 next to the foot pedals should be okay because I took some out of a junkyard a couple of days ago to try them out and nothing changed. I jumped to the ECU connector and some of the port holes in it light up but others do not, I don't know what the wires lead to exactly from the ECU connector that are or aren't working. I'm guessing it's not the fuel pump or ECU but some wire or sensor getting fucked up that is causing all this mess and not letting my car catch that spark. Any suggestions on what to do from here, what certain wire I should check next, anything, just let me know PLEASE! My thought is to replace the wire that leads to the coil pack, because the other parts I checked, such as cetain wires or the ECU port holes that didn't work probably won't fire up unless I have the car running.

Alright I'm wrong about that circle thing, but it's still something electrical. When I put the light test in one certain pin hole on the ECU connector it turns the fuel pump on and you can hear the hose flowing with fuel along with the slight buzzing of the fuel pump in the back until I remove the test it goes off, so I know that's solved. But I don't know why I don't hear it when I turn the key to "on" when the ECU is connected? Nor did the fuel pump wires have power when I put the light on them for some reason though... even though the fuel pump did turn on. Also on the ECU connector only the right side from the center bolt between the pin holes does it have about 5-10 random pin holes that produce power, the whole left side from the center bolt has no pin holes with power surging threw them, along with a many random holes on the right side with no power. So could someone be so kind to put a test light on there 95 eclipse RS ECU CONNECTOR and see which pin holes produce power if not all of them? It would help me narrow things down. Could it be my ECU itself that is just not powering anything when I hook the connector up? Because I tested these sensors with the key to on.

- cam sensor - no power
- map sensor - no power
-TP sensor - no power
ECT sensor - no power
Electric EGR transudcer solenoid - power
o2 sensor - no power

I took a new coil pack and replaced it with the old one thinking maybe that's what is causing no spark, but I still get no spark. Would a sensor cause my car to not run at all, if so which ones? Also are there any fusible links on my eclipse? I just got a multi-meter today also, I'm not sure how to check the wires if they get ohms exactly. Do I plug one tead to the beginning of a wire and then the second tead at the other end? Most of the plug in wires go to the ECU, battery, or both? Also do all the sensors go to the ECU?

These are some OHM readings I got:

cam sensor (CMP) - 3.72 ohm
EGR - 4.56ohm
ECT sensor - 6.19ohm
MAP sensor - 0.38ohm
TP sensor (upper part of TB) - 0.41ohm on port holes 1&3 |-| 17.5ohm other
TP sensor (lower electric clip for throttle body) - 9.0 ohm
knock sensor - 12.4ohm
fuel pump - 0ohm

Do the readings look accurate enough? On the TP sensor on the upper part of the throttle body I tested port hole 1 and 3 with the 2 teads and I got 0.41ohm then I switched up the teads to different port holes and got a 17-18 reading, if you get 2 different readings on the same sensor does that mean something is wrong. Also I get no ohm on my fuel pump but I can get it to run.

You definately gave a lot of info. I don't know if I can help with your problem, But I will try to give you some more info. Because I do not know your background, forgive me if this sounds too easy. First off, What kind of meter did you get. Does it auto-scale for you or do you have to dial in the range. Some multi-meters tolerances vary from +-.1% to +-10%. So accuracy is important when dealing with 0.14 ohms. I do believe that all sensors go to the ECU. But the ECU likes to talk in mili-volt values vs. ohms. The sensors can react differently with the 12v vs. the 1.5v or 9v the meter uses to get a ohms value. I have a 92 talon that has an obd1 connector for computer management. I believe your car has an obd2 connector. I also have a chiltons book on the car, and although in general the book sucks, it does go through the various sensors and how to check them using the meter. The other choice is to get the dealer to scan the ECU. One thing that bothers me a little is you get 0 ohms on the fuel pump but it still can run. Generally 0 ohms means a shorted winding and you will blow fuses. Infinate ohms means an open wire or winding. The motor should read, depending on the windings, anywhere from 20 ohms to 150 or 200 ohms. It is possible that the brushes are marginal to get an infinate reading on the meter but the current will overcome the resistance of the brushes. I am an industrial electrician by day and a casual gearhead by night, so I hope the meter info will help and good luck.

have you checked the plug for the coil pack to see if you're getting power at that? go to a local repair shop and have them print you out a wiring diagram of the engine schematics. check the coil pack plug to see if you're getting power there

hey bro im havin the same problem wit my 95 talon.i looked up tsb's to see if i could find anything and wala!!! Its your computer im almost positive.If you post the serial number on the pc ill tell you if its a model that has been affected.:sunglasse