Buying advice 97 GTP
K15004X4
10-08-2005, 02:01 PM
I will be looking at a 97 GTP. The car has over a 100,000 miles - seems to be in average shape. The seller says that the rear is out of alignment and there may be some electrical problems - he did not go into details on the phone. The price is reasonable $2500. Is there anything on these cars that typically needs to be replaced after 100,000 miles? This seems like a deal but I don't want it to turn into a money pit. Also, when I go to inspect it, what are some key points to look for on the car and during the test drive?
richtazz
10-08-2005, 02:31 PM
The 97 is the first year of this body style, and like any 1st model, has a few more electrical gremlins than the rest of the run. The only real problems are power window motors, hub bearings and A/C system. Other than that, they're pretty dependable cars. I work at an AC-Delco distributor in a GM town (FLint, MI) and the dependability of the Grand Prix, and the fact that I think it's the best looking car GM has made in years, is why I bought one myself. Find out what wiring problems he's being so vague about, and why he sais the rear "might" be out of alignment, as that is the only thing that I would be worried about(sonds like he could have hit a curb hard or the car has been in an accident. If it hasn't been in an accident, you're mechanically inclined, and the car runs good, I'd jump on it, it sounds like a good deal. You might want to take the VIN and run a carfax report to be sure it hasn't been totalled, because as always, buyer beware!!!!
K15004X4
10-08-2005, 02:43 PM
Generally, how is the reliability of the drivetrain? Is the transmission able to handle the extra torque of the supercharged engine. And does the supercharger itself ever fail or need to be rebuilt. You will have to excuse all of these "newbie" questions but I am not familiar with these cars at all.
BNaylor
10-08-2005, 04:03 PM
Hey Rich...you there? :dunno:
The GTP has a heavy duty version of the 4T65E tranny (4T65E-HD) and was designed by GM to handle the extra torque which is 280 ft-lbs stock. The drive axles (half shafts) are beefier too. The differential has better bearings, etc. along with other subtle differences. The shift points are different and it runs higher line pressure than a GT/SE via the PCM module. BTW - The final gear ratio for a GTP (L67) is 2.93.
The Eaton M90 Gen3 supercharger is very reliable. The only part I've replaced is the coupler. It also has special SC oil that needs to be changed out periodically. Some people have had problems with the nose/snout bearings/seal. When you fire up the engine up listen very closely at the front of the supercharger and see if it's noisy.
I'd recommend running it through the mill just like any other used car. Good luck!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
The GTP has a heavy duty version of the 4T65E tranny (4T65E-HD) and was designed by GM to handle the extra torque which is 280 ft-lbs stock. The drive axles (half shafts) are beefier too. The differential has better bearings, etc. along with other subtle differences. The shift points are different and it runs higher line pressure than a GT/SE via the PCM module. BTW - The final gear ratio for a GTP (L67) is 2.93.
The Eaton M90 Gen3 supercharger is very reliable. The only part I've replaced is the coupler. It also has special SC oil that needs to be changed out periodically. Some people have had problems with the nose/snout bearings/seal. When you fire up the engine up listen very closely at the front of the supercharger and see if it's noisy.
I'd recommend running it through the mill just like any other used car. Good luck!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.
stlwagon
10-08-2005, 04:33 PM
Also good to check the rear main for leaks as well as the high pressure ps hose and rack. You'll also want to look for any signs of antifreeze pooling around the intake (sign of intake manifold gasket wear/failure).
regalfriend
10-11-2005, 09:36 PM
A rear alignement problem for a 97 with a 100k sounds fishy....he may be trying to justify an unevenly worn tire or a vibration. Chances are it was in an accident or hit a curb. A 4 wheel alignment should cost around $70...its something he should have done to fix the problem before he sells the car, to increase the value..Negotiate your best deal. Offer $80 more to pay for the alignment. Go to the shop with him and have the alignment done before you give a deposit or pay him any money. If the shop tells you the car is ok after the alignment then $2500 is probobly worth it for that car. Even with electrical problem.
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