Need help with p/e parts. Thanks.

I’ve jut received my first lot of SMS parts, mostly WRC rally car parts. I’ve no idea what I’m meant to do with these, as they are so small, and look very delicate. I’ve brought some Tamiya Photo Etch scissors, but other then this, I’ve got no tools to work with, so I need some help.

I’ve searched, and I’ve read using tape to cut the parts, glass top and knife, or scissors is a good idea, also read about etch primer. But I don’t fancy painting them all too much, looks like a lot of detail could get buried in paint.

Most of the parts I’ve got are either going to remain silver, or be sprayed black. Found a product in the UK that appears to blacken metal nickel same as used by SMS.

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Metalblacking_Products_187.html&CatalogBody

Anyone ever used a blacken technique before? If so what do I do?

Also I’ve been naughty and touched a few parts, and left some nice finger prints.. Same place sells stuff to clean metal etch parts, anything else I can do to remove the finger prints? I’ve left grease, it’s only natural as fingers are naturally greasy, so it’s slightly sent the silver a touch darker.. Whoops..!!

Also, what is the best technique to bend P/E? Searched and some mentioned a steel ruler? First time using P/E, but to recap –

Cover the parts in low tack tape and cut from tree and this will prevent parts flying
Prime parts with etch primer if painting any other colour
If parts needs to be black, can use a blacken it product, and then seal with sealer
Bending parts use a steel ruler

Missing info on –

What does everyone use to sand off or file off the little nicks left from cutting from tree? Nail board? Nail file?

Gluing the parts I take it white glue, CA or enamel clear works. What about water based clear? Or micro scale clear glue?

Cleaning the parts – what is best to use?

Many thanks to you all for any answers you might provide. I’ve spent ages searching, but many voids need filling, and I’m hoping some of you who use P/E a lot can help.

Thanks.

To sand off the excess after removing from the fret, I use a sanding stick or on thicker parts I sometimes use a needle file.

Any clear coat type paint will work to attach scripts and the like, for most other times, super glue(CA) is your best bet.

Bending is tricky, I wouldn't use a ruler alone though, you may want to look into either getting an etch mate bending tool or emulate it somehow.
I place my parts for bending between two pieces of glass, unevenly overlapped so one creates the bend edge and the other a flat surface, I then use a box cutter blade to bend the part towards the guiding edge.

Finger can be removed with some rubbing alcohol, just make sure you clean the parts well to get rid of the skin oils.

Don't forget to prime the parts if they are to be painted, you want the paint to have a good surface to grip to, any metal primer will work well. Personally I use Tamiya primer without any hassle.

That’s a lot of questions for one post! :D

Ray has already covered most of them. I've never used the "blacken-it". I find that priming then painting doesn’t cover too much detail, especially if you use lacquers and keep the coats thin. An etch type primer is an absolute must, as is roughing the metal surface with sandpaper.

Anther option for cleaning is to use micromesh style polishing abrasives. You can achieve a mirror finish using them.

I also use a needle file or sandpaper to remove the "bumps" left from the runners, basically whatever works. I don't stress too much about bending, sometimes just needle nose pliers and fingers works fine. Sometimes a metal surface, ruler and Stanley knife blade like Ray suggested.

For really small parts, like scripts, I use a water based PVA style glue. For other parts superglue, epoxy or clear paint. Once again it depends on the situation, you make the choice! :)

My response was going to be ask 360spider. What a great tutorial, everyone should read this.

Ah wow.. Thanks guys. That will certainly help me. After building 6 models out of the box, I was keen to try P/E, but getting my first set just confused me..

All this info posted here has really helped, and 360spider, as always great write up. I'd be rubbish at model building if it wasn't for this site, and the fantastic write ups by 360 spider. They really do help.

Now, I need a steel ruler, some blacken it and etch primer for parts I don't want black. And some thinner to clean the parts, and needle files and yet more toothpicks, a pane of glass etc etc.. :lol2:

Ooh.. My poor bank balance... I need a pay increase..!!

Thanks guys.

Well, after 360spider's post, there's certainly not much to be added (nice write up!). But, maybe a couple of things bear mentioning.

First- No worries. Relax. PE is really not that hard to work with. Cut it off, stick it on, it's really that easy. Paint it with whatever you want- it's rather forgiving. Glue it on with whatever you want- especially the small bits- nearly anything (except plastic cement!) will work.

Second- Blackenit (or similar) is terrific for PE- as long as you want it black. I doubt I'll ever paint PE black again. Get the stuff formulated for brass- it should work fine for any type of PE you're using, brass or otherwise.

Third- there's nothing sacred about about PE. Flat thin metal is often not a better representation of a component than an injection molded kit part. It is up to you to decide which is superior (or what combination of both), and use them as you see fit. Anyone who has much experince with S27 will likely know that often the PE replacement just isn't worth using. Use PE as another tool in your arsenal, but be mindfull that it's rarely a cure-all.

Another good option for bending is a couple of razor blades, and a smooth hard surface. Glass is great, but not necissary. PE bending tools are certainly nice, and if you were building model ships, or even aircraft, I'd probably recommend one. In building cars, they're rarely if ever necessary- at least not enough to justify the 40+ USD they usually go for. I have one (well, really I made one), but have never used it for automitive modeling.

Good luck and enjoy.

Can blackenit be obtained in Canada? I have some mesh that needs to be black.

Sorry to hi-jack the thread.

One more way to attach P/E if it's supposed to be glued on before anything is painted.
First glue the part to a very thin PC-bit with superglue or whatever you fancy.
Trim off the excess PC
Glue the piece in place with ordinary styrene glue and without having the fuss with epoxi you can adjust the position of the piece.
For getting off the attachment points I use a knife sharpener similar to this with diamonds on.
http://www.clasohlson.se/images/products/S/hi/A/205923_5925_5929_X_2004-06-30_093923.jpg
It works quick and smooth and is also very useful reshaping the knifes if you need any "special" tools.
Otherwise I have nothing more to contribute on this matter.
Oh! Maybe keep the work area extra tidy when you start with the small parts as some will take a jump and fly off in any direction :grinno:

Good luck!
Niclas