No Start/Crank

I have been having starting trouble for some time, sometimes when it's Cold or Hot you turn the key and get nothing. My daughter found that if the key is held in the starting position after a short time it will start cranking. I've taken it to the shop to have it fixed, but they can't seem to duplicate it. Last time though I got them to give me a copy of the Ignition schematic to try and troubleshoot it myself, and have found that there are Relays in a panel under the hood that are part of the circuit. I replaced the one marked Crank and the starting problem has been reduced but not eliminated. There is another marked Ignition but the Relays cost $20 a pop and would like to be certain that this could help. Is there any other experience with this problem and maybe this is a planned obsolescence on the part of the relay manufacterer which causes them all to go bad at the same time?

You may want to check these two post out. I am having the same problem with my 2000 Intrigue. I haven't fixed it yet because my son has it away at college. I hope to fix it sometime over the holiday break.
Stan

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=447837&highlight=switch

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=143737&highlight=switch+ignition+repair

Have seen this Post on the Ignition Switch correction. Don't believe this to be my problem. When the Crank Relay was bypassed the voltage which is called Ignition Power (doesn't say where from on schematic) was still not present at the starter to engage starter. I'm hoping that the Circuit Board in the underdash fuse panel is not intermittant. All told the IGN1/2 Fuse,Ign Switch(2Poles), CRANK SIG Fuse,U/H Relay Fuse, Starter Relay, PCM Module, and Park/Neutral Interlock and the Starter are in the Circuit. Why did they make it so hard anyway?

What year and eng. is this, I have access to Mitchell on demand maybe I can get a better circuitry routing info.

I think your solenoid (magnetic switch = relay) on the starter may be hanging up due to corrosion or something else.

This is part of the starter assembly and I don't think the Intrigue starters are made to take apart (to fix solenoid) so a new or rebuilt starter must be purchased. On some cars the solenoid is not part of the starter assembly and is a seperate box that the + (usually) battery voltage goes to. Easy to see because the large + battery cable goes directly to the solenoid and then will connect to the starter (another large wire). The solenoid is a high current switch that has contacts for this reason. A regular switch could not handle the high current load. The solenoid contacts wear out over time also.

So basically you have a trigger voltage that is applied to the starter solenoid when you turn your ignition key. This signal turns the solnoid on (magnetic) and high current is allowed to go directly to the starter.

One way to see if this is the problem is try toggling ignition on and off multiple times (don't just keep the key held on ignition, the multiple toggling really seems to help). Ignition means start, not on. Toggle about 2-3 times a second.

The sure fire way to check this is to make sure the starter solenoid is getting the correct signal voltage so the relay closes (or open, may be reverse for some systems, really just see what the voltage is before ignition is applied and make sure you have the reverse when you turn the key (the voltage signal should change)) if the solenoid is getting the correct voltage it is not your ignition, but the starter solenoid (magnetic switch or contacts) or a problem with the starter itself (not solenoid).

Also be careful around that starter because of the high current condition. Make sure you are not part of the current return path. All you need to do is check for the signal volatage on that solenoid and make sure it changes when the key is turned for ignition.

You may also have issues with wiring. Maybe some of the connections are bad/corroded etc. --But I bet ya it's that solenoid.