First Stage of Mods

So, after the past couple days working on installing my new gauges in my '00 GTP, I got a WILD hair up my bunghole and decided to stop by an exhaust shop by my house to price a new exhaust system. didn't plan on purchasing anything but when I walked in and recognized an old drinking partner from college, I started to fold. Long story short, I replaced my exhaust. Magnaflow High-FLow Cat, U-Bend delete, 2.5" to the Y, 2.25 to Magnaflow 14" Mufflers and topped it off with S/S tips (I left the resonator). Damnit Man, what a difference from Stock. SOOOOO, now I want more. I have added no performace mods yet (except for a K&N filter). This is what I am thinking,
- New PCM (Intense or DHP?)
- 3.4 pulley
- Throttle body spacer (based on http://www.zzperformance.com/downloads/Throttle_Body_Spacer_Study.pdf )

This would complete the first stage.

I decided to wait on the CAI based on the fact ( read it in a post here somewhere) that the stock box isn't restrictive, and that I put a K&N filter in.

Does this seem like I am on the right track here? Also, if I install the throttle body spacer, will it fit on the LS1 throttle body when I upgrade it later on?

Also, if I install the throttle body spacer, will it fit on the LS1 throttle body when I upgrade it later on?

When you go to a LS1 throttle body conversion you cannot use the old spacer and you will need a new MAF sensor for a LS1/LS6.

Wizardair has a CAI made specifically for a L67 running a LS1 TB conversion.

Sounds like you're on the right track to me.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Just dremmel the stock air box and you'll be good. Maybe drop one heat range on the plugs, some autolite 104's would be good.

So, Bnaylor - What other mods should I have before I upgrade to the LS1 TB?

Ripn - What do you mean by Dremmel the Stock air box? (where and how much?)

So, Bnaylor - What other mods should I have before I upgrade to the LS1 TB?

From my experience modding depends on factors such as cost, how much power you want, driveability concerns, etc.

I did my first mods in 2 stages. I'll be working on Stage 3 this next year. I'm considering a racing tranny (ZZP or 65 T-Raptor), 245mm torque convertor, intercooler and 1.8-1.9 roller rockers. My GTP is just a toy and it is not used for daily transportation. I've got a '01 Regal GS I use for that purpose.

If you want to keep your GTP streetable and without destroying whatever fuel economy you are getting, the 2 most significant mods since you've already improved the exhaust system is a re-programmed PCM (DHP or Intense) and the 3.4 SC pulley. A CAI is nice to have but if you plan on going to a LS1 TB converson later, it would just be a waste of money for 10 - 15 hp. If you are happy with your exhaust mod then you will be very happy when you put that new PCM in. It has modified timing and advance mapping to take full advantage of exhaust or intake mods. The shift points are raised and the speed limiter is removed. Plus you can drop to a 160 degree thermostat. The fan turn on point changes to 185 degrees.

Either SLP or TOG headers would be a significant mod but they are expensive and a PITA to install DIY.

These are just my recommendations based on my experience and 2 cents. :2cents:






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

his :2cents: is priceless, as Bob knows his stuff. he's just being modest.

Was the improvement on the exhaust enough? I mean, should I have upgraded to larger pipes or...?

And yes, I am very happy with the exhaust so now I'm itching to get the PCM. With the options that are available on the Intense, and the fact that it is half the price of the DHP, which should I go for? I'm not sure how much of a difference either one would make. Or if it's 6 in one, Half a dozen in the other.

With Dropping the heat range i nthe plugs, what would the gap be? (I think you can specify the gap you want one one of the sites, maybe ZZPerformace)

I still don't get the "dremmel the stock air box" do you know what Ripn meant?

Was the improvement on the exhaust enough? I mean, should I have upgraded to larger pipes or...?

And yes, I am very happy with the exhaust so now I'm itching to get the PCM. With the options that are available on the Intense, and the fact that it is half the price of the DHP, which should I go for? I'm not sure how much of a difference either one would make. Or if it's 6 in one, Half a dozen in the other.

With Dropping the heat range i nthe plugs, what would the gap be? (I think you can specify the gap you want one one of the sites, maybe ZZPerformace)

I still don't get the "dremmel the stock air box" do you know what Ripn meant?

I believe your exhaust mod is fine. I run a custom 2.5" from the down pipe through a Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT with 2.5 in/out all the way to the stock mufflers. 3.0" is nice but how much of an improvement over 2.5 is debateable.

On the PCM you can flip a coin. The Intense is good cost wise and being able to have an immediate option for differerent stages whereby DHP requires custom re-programming if you want more radical programming from the base mods. I went with DHP.

On spark plug gap .055.

On gutting air box, I've never done it. But I've heard of GP owners doing it. I went with a Thrasher CAI instead.

Hope the info helps and good luck!







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Remove PCM from air box and "gut it". Meaning remove any plastick that is in the path of the air flow. Cut the opening bigger and stick the pcm under the airbox.

Remove PCM from air box and "gut it". Meaning remove any plastick that is in the path of the air flow. Cut the opening bigger and stick the pcm under the airbox.

Do you have a picture of a gutted box I could look at?

First thing you should do is get a scanner. And before changing pulley size on the s/c i would scan and put a new intake in or gutt the intake you have now, new plugs, and a pcm. If you don;t you run the risk of KR which in return could cause major damage to your car. I've heard way to many people blowing there motor because of this. should check out clubgp.com too, another great forum site.

Hey strk500, Thanks for the reply! :biggrin:

I do not have a scanner at the moment, but I am gettin the interceptor gauge which will scan, read, and clear DTC's (plus i have a good connection at Advance next to home who lets me use their scanners whenever i need them); I gutted my stock air box today and I have a K&N filter on it that I just cleaned and recharged. Autolite 605's and PRJ pro Ignition wires are on order, as well as a DHP PCM.

And I have been on clubgp.com forums all day asking questions and having some excellent conversations with other GP enthusiasts.

I plan on installing the mods in this order.

1) PCM - Test drive for about 20 miles or so.
2) Plugs & Wires - another test drive
3) TB Spacer, S/C coupler & new S/C fluid- T.D.
4) s/c pulley and new gatorback belts - T.D.
5) tranny filter/fluid & fuel filter - T.D. and check for leaks and such
6) tranny cooler - T.D.
7) Walboro Fuel pump with rewire - T.D.


So, hopefully I've planned this correctly and the order will work out correctly.

does anyone have any suggestions on the order of modifications, and/or good tips for performing them? I read up on grandprix.net, i have a chiltons manual, and a decent set of good tools, not to mention I have been on AF and clubgp.com for a few days checking this stuff out. BUT, ANY suggestions/recommendations would be very much appreciated!

TIA everyone.

JRK

stock wires will be fine

i say do the pulley first, and get a modular system

i wouldnt bother w/ the sc coupler unless the stock one is going bad

what state do u live in again?? dont think trans cooler is needed in colder states

dont need the walbro stick with stock for now. you have alot more mods to go before u start maxing out the stock pump let alone the stock injectors

stock wires will be fine

i say do the pulley first, and get a modular system

i wouldnt bother w/ the sc coupler unless the stock one is going bad

what state do u live in again?? dont think trans cooler is needed in colder states

dont need the walbro stick with stock for now. you have alot more mods to go before u start maxing out the stock pump let alone the stock injectors

I did get a modular system, i figured it was worth it if I planned to keep adding mods.

I'm approaching 100K and plugs and wires are recommended at 100K, at least i thought, so i figured might as well upgrade. And, from what i read here, i figured the coupler would start wearing soon also, so since i needed to change the sc oil, i'd go ahead and fix the coupler issue before it starts.
Would changing the wires and sc coupler hurt anything?

I live in GA, the summers get above 100 and the winters are below freezing. Not for extensive periods, but it still hits the extremes. I alos live in a hilly/mountain area and usually run a 210 +. I didn't like that so the tranny cooler was an idea to help that.
What is the normal operating temp?

can the injectors handle the Walbro pump? how long before I would need it?

Get a 3" Down Pipe next. One of the worst restrictions on our cars. Get a DHP PCM.

Ok, I installed the DHP and didn't have a problem (i'm going to go get a case learn in the morning).

I also intalled the Thraser modular system, but now i havea really high pitched whine that sounds almost like it's coming from the alternator. It changes pitch with throttle pressure, even if no boost is shown. So my question is, what would this more than likely be? Alternator, or new pulley?

could be a tensioner pulley going bad, take the belt off and turn all pullies by hand and see if any are going bad

how would i know if they were going bad? i'm assuming they wouldn't turn smoothly?

yup, when a bearing is going bad it will catch or grind

I will do that in the morning, Thanks!

I have a question i was wandering how hard it would be to install a ls1 throttle body on my 97 gtp and what are the gains I can expect to recieve from this conversion?

Ok, I installed the DHP and didn't have a problem (i'm going to go get a case learn in the morning).

I also intalled the Thraser modular system, but now i havea really high pitched whine that sounds almost like it's coming from the alternator. It changes pitch with throttle pressure, even if no boost is shown. So my question is, what would this more than likely be? Alternator, or new pulley?Did you install a new Goodyear Gatorback belt when you did the pulley change? You are in the same area as I am located, we have a 5000 sq ft shop nearby with scanners, welders, lift and some Series II knowledge. BTW, we can run our cars side by side on Hwy-78 to see how they are doing. If you want to drop by, send me a PM. :iceslolan

I have a question i was wandering how hard it would be to install a ls1 throttle body on my 97 gtp and what are the gains I can expect to recieve from this conversion?

It depends on what other mods you have or plan on getting. Just the LS1 TB conversion will do nothing spectacular especially without a reprogrammed PCM module. :2cents: