Nitrous with 3800 S/C?

I know NOS is a form of chilled fuel. S/C is compressed air. Intercooler is chilled, compressed air. Are there any benefits of all three, or does it work, what is the effect?

I know NOS is a form of chilled fuel. S/C is compressed air. Intercooler is chilled, compressed air. Are there any benefits of all three, or does it work, what is the effect?

Interesting way of describing the three. The end affect is horsepower.

A basic Stage 1 intercooler on a L67 can give 50 whp. A short stack around 30. An intercooler will literally reduce KR to zero in the process.

As for nitrous, depending on the nozzle/flow jet size 50 - 75 hp. I've seen 100 and up to 250 shot on a Grand Prix GTP being used.

The supercharger is self-explanatory.

It's down to one factor......cost. Money buys horsepower.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Bnaylor, what do you mean by KR? May sound like a dumb question and I'm probably gonna kick myself when I hear it...just thought I'd ask
thx

Bnaylor, what do you mean by KR? May sound like a dumb question and I'm probably gonna kick myself when I hear it...just thought I'd ask
thx

KR is knock retard. Most of us are not aware of it until you decide to hookup an aftermarket gauge kit or run a program such as Autotap. Then the red flag goes up. There are 2 knock sensors on a Grand Prix GT/GTP. One at the front of the engine and one at the rear. If detonation is sensed from one of the KR sensors the PCM will retard timing and advance, thereby degrading power. It does this to protect the engine. Poor grade fuel will cause KR.

For example: When you change pulley sizes on a SC, KR of an alarming level normally shows up. You can compensate by dropping to colder plugs, improving the intake system or freeing up the exhaust.

If you go to a radical pulley (size 3.0 and less) an intercooler is normally required.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

just a note, NOS is acutally a way to squeeze more oxygen into the combustion chamber, not a fuel in it's own right. More fuel is needed when running NOS, so be careful not to lean out your fuel mixture and go BOOM!

...with mods such as NOS , intercooled, smaller pully. exhaust and intake, etc....its possible to get an additional 200 + HP...ive been told there is a risk of blowing out the bottom end of motor with this kind of increase of HP...is this true?

...with mods such as NOS , intercooled, smaller pully. exhaust and intake, etc....its possible to get an additional 200 + HP...ive been told there is a risk of blowing out the bottom end of motor with this kind of increase of HP...is this true?

Oh yes, it has been done but I don't know of anyone who did it successfully without beefing up internal engine components, going to a hotter CAM with roller rockers or modifying the 4T65EHD tranny to handle that much extra horsepower and torque.

I'd be worried about the tranny just as much as the engine. A Grand Prix or Regal is not exactly the hot rodder's dream car. It can be a real PITA to get the end result which is the "Need for Speed".






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I think that it is pretty known that 4T65-E catches a lot of flack on "other" car boards as being junk...

Here is my question(since I'm pretty new to the GP scene), how true is this??? Or is it typical "My car>your car" crap???

I mean sure ANY transmission can give you trouble and I think its known that manuals are more durable than autos, thats not what i'm asking, I'm wondering what are the chances of me having tranny problems on down the road(with a very mild setup)???

Likely or not

IF you do your regular maintenance, avoid Fluid flushes/fluid exchanges, and add a trans cooler, you shouldn't have any problems. Most problems with GM transaxles can be attributed to two things, neglect and mis-use. My 87 Celebrity wagon (go ahead and laugh, I'm ok with it) had over 475k on it without ever having the motor or trans out of it, because I did the maintenance. The newer electronic transmissions have a few issues with the shift solenoids going, but electronic parts fail sooner or later, and GM's are more troublefree than those of Ford or Dodge. So tell the nay-sayers to shut up and do your scheduled maintenance.

I think that it is pretty known that 4T65-E catches a lot of flack on "other" car boards as being junk...

Here is my question(since I'm pretty new to the GP scene), how true is this??? Or is it typical "My car>your car" crap???

I mean sure ANY transmission can give you trouble and I think its known that manuals are more durable than autos, thats not what i'm asking, I'm wondering what are the chances of me having tranny problems on down the road(with a very mild setup)???

Likely or not

With mild mods and proper maintenance you have a high probability that you may not have any tranny problems down the road but there is no guarantee of that. Don't wait until 100K miles to do your first pan drop and screen filter.

Now in the context of this specific thread, the 4T65E-HD GTP tranny is only capable of continuous mid 13 sec. 1/4 mile times. (Estimated 350 hp/375 ft-lbs torque). So for example to get into the 12s ands 11s a decision has to be made to take the appropriate steps to improve the stock tranny or replace it with a racing tranny. I do not know of anyone who still has their original tranny that has accomplished this feat and that includes the '04 and up models.

BTW - We have just as many postings and problems with the 4T65E tranny on this forum as others.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

ok so since I actually enjoy "maintaining" my car(even change the synthetic oil every 3500), I should be ok...

And I was planning on add a trans. cooler anyway on down the road...

ok so since I actually enjoy "maintaining" my car(even change the synthetic oil every 3500), I should be ok...

And I was planning on add a trans. cooler anyway on down the road...

Out of curiosity how many miles are on your GTP?

There is nothing wrong with changing synthetic motor oil at 3500 to 4000 miles instead of what the oil makers recommend. It's recommended by the experts.

On the tranny, even with mild mods, change the ATF and screen filter out every at intervals of 50K miles or less. A trans oil cooler would be helpful because heat is what destroys transmissions. Another recommendation would be to get an aftermarket tranny oil pan with more capacity, cooling fins, and a drain plug.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

oh my gtp only has 28k on it...

I'm getting an idea of what might be ahead...

I think tranny cooler is a good idea...like stated heat is destructive...in all my cars when i change the thermostat i try to go to the lowest temp possible......ive had cars that ive removed the thermostat and seen it run alot cooler and believe the engine life is extended...only problem is in the winter the heat doesnt get very hot...ive been told to remove t-stat is not good because the engine wont run right, but hav'nt noticed that

On the tranny, even with mild mods, change the ATF and screen filter out every at intervals of 50K miles or less. A trans oil cooler would be helpful because heat is what destroys transmissions. Another recommendation would be to get an aftermarket tranny oil pan with more capacity, cooling fins, and a drain plug.

Are there any instructions out there to assist in changing the ATF and filter on a 00 GTP. I'm approaching 100K (unfortunatly for now, my GTP is my daily driver and we're looking at 3K mi/ month, yes it totally BLOWS) (the past 50K have been all highway and I dont' run my car hard, unless a ricer pulls up and starts passing gas) and am about to finish my first stage of mods. [upgraded exhaust, ubend delete, 3.4 pulley, K&N on stock box, autolite 605's, DHP PCM, tranny cooler, TB spacer)

At 45k i had the tranny flushed (I didn't know the reprecutions of this until after it was done) and would rather handle a drain and refill by myself.

Also, would zzp, 3800perf, or pfyc have a tranny pan as mentioned above by bnaylor?

Tranny flushes are ok if done regularly, like ever 36-50k depending on how hard you drive. It's when you wait until 75-80kor more to do your first one when the fluid is burnt and brown that you run into problems.

oh ok, so my first flush was at 45K, i mean, i don't see or feel any problems other than a minor leak which I corrected by tightening the tranny pan down slightly when the car was warm.

But as far as the tranny pan goes, any recomendations as to where to purchase and instructions on installing?

Are there any instructions out there to assist in changing the ATF and filter on a 00 GTP. I'm approaching 100K (unfortunatly for now, my GTP is my daily driver and we're looking at 3K mi/ month, yes it totally BLOWS) (the past 50K have been all highway and I dont' run my car hard, unless a ricer pulls up and starts passing gas) and am about to finish my first stage of mods. [upgraded exhaust, ubend delete, 3.4 pulley, K&N on stock box, autolite 605's, DHP PCM, tranny cooler, TB spacer)

At 45k i had the tranny flushed (I didn't know the reprecutions of this until after it was done) and would rather handle a drain and refill by myself.

Also, would zzp, 3800perf, or pfyc have a tranny pan as mentioned above by bnaylor?


Here's a procedure with pics for a tranny pan drop and screen filter change:

http://www.massclubgp.com/viewtopic.php?p=20560


On the tranny pan, 3800Performance used to have them but they are no longer listed and stopped selling them. It was made by MSP.

I got mine special order from a local speed shop. Cost was $195.00.

Also B&M makes a universal ATF drain plug kit if you just want to add drain capability for the tranny pan. Cost $14.00.

Hope the info helps and good luck!





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I plan on doing a tranny flush at 40k...

On a side note I had a 80-something Monte Carlo try to race me tonight, he was loping pretty hard at the light so I thought I was in for it, wrong, he was all sound and no go... I wouldn't even consider it a race, also raced an 03' SSR yesterday(had to be I believe the 6.0L would kill me) and beat him pretty handily...