95 Maxima won't start

Hey everyone, I'm new to AF & was hoping to get some help. My 95 Nissan Maxima has been intermittently cutting off while I've been driving for the past week. It also cuts off while idling. I went to take it to the shop & today it wouldn't even crank. I had to tow it to the shop. I don't think its the battery (alarm, lights, radio & everything electric still works). All it does is click when you try to crank it. Any ideas?

Thanks!

...intermittently cutting ... click when you try to crank it...

Probably 2problems. Possibilities:

- Depending on the clic location, if in front of engine: starter solenoid/starter dead and/or oxidized batt terminals/cables. (whats the mileage?).
- ECU power relay bad and/or worn ign sw ...replace
- oxidized connectors, check http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 and also see Favorite Links at left

Note: Starting draws 500Amps from batt. Electronics draws only 1-2% = 1-10Amps. So requirement for starter to rotate are on different orbit; dead batt and/or low charge voltage may be all u have... check.

.

[QUOTE=Nahkapohjola]Probably 2problems. Possibilities:

QUOTE: (whats the mileage?). - High, 222,000.

QUOTE: Note: Starting draws 500Amps from batt. Electronics draws only 1-2% = 1-10Amps. So requirement for starter to rotate are on different orbit; dead batt and/or low charge voltage may be all u have... check.

- I didn't know that (you learn something new everyday, I suppose :o) But I did try to give the car a boost (portable booster), to no avail... I am waiting to hear back from the mechanic. Also, the check engine light came on. Hope its not more serious than we think...

Thanks for the quick response! :o)

... Hope its not more serious than we think...

I dont think its seriou$, but might be real nuisance before found & corrected. ECU pwr & inhibitor relays, ign sw are relatively cheap to change just in case. Quite possibly starter (reman starters, alts dont last too lon) Its a miracle if not 2nd starter already.

Nissan gnd batt cable (under batt tray) is known to rot away. check that at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5

Take batt off for 30min = ECU/check light reset.

Turns out the battery was a goner, so I changed it, but the car still kept cutting off! I took it back to the shop & found out that there were several code errors (engine). They changed the coolant sensor which stopped the cutting off problem. But now I need new 'knocksensors' & Oxygen sensors. What do they do? And are they really as expensive to purchase and put in as they are telling me?

...I need new 'knocksensors' & Oxygen sensors....

The Knock Sensor is a safety device used when wrong octane gas, soot in engine or smtg else causes pre-ignition. When severe pre ignition happens for few minutes, engine falls apart. I have bypassed KS alltogether in my VGE, 50cents , see how page http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9

Time kills KS. When its dead, ignition is retarded. Mpg, power loss. (dropping the KS kills also its piezo element pretensioning)

In VE, the KS location is nasty, lots of work. Some have done the same bypass also in VE, but engine needs always higher octane. Here we have not even got low octane, weather mild-cold, so being w/o KS does not matter. Still, unawares with sooty engine, hot climate, heavy loading might destroy engine: this is why most cars utilize this stupido arrangement: global market, they keep running with 'any' gas.

O2 Sensor swap is easy DIY, needs the proper tool, few dollars...

Buy the sensors from net, should be below 100$ each. Yes, price is dirty for a kids toy speaker (=KSensor)...