2001 Dodge Caravan
thatnigga
10-03-2005, 04:12 AM
Ok, I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan. My wife had to break the front passenger side window about a week ago because my daughter had locked herself in the car (I live in Arizona and it was about 110* out). Somehow the plastic guides got stuck, simple fix with a screw driver and installed the window myself. But now the Driver side window (which had no problems before) doesn't go up or down. There is no sound being made when I try the switch at all. I've also noticed that the lock switch works to unlock the doors but doesn't work to lock the doors. While all the other switches on the driver side work, and all the ones on the passenger side work also. I have no idea why this would be if anyone can give me some insight I would appreciate it. Thanks
GTP Dad
10-03-2005, 06:53 AM
REmove the door panel and check the wiring. It sounds like you have a broken or loose wire. Also check all fuses to the window and lock controls. You may have accidentally shorted one out while working on the window.
thatnigga
10-03-2005, 10:55 AM
Are you saying to take off the door panel for the passenger side? Cause I wouldn't think that that side would be causing the driver side not roll down or lock the doors. And I have never taken the door panel off of the driver side.
Also I looked underneath the hood but those only appear to be relays. I can't find where the acutal fuses maybe and the book that I have and it says that fuses are self-resetting and need the ODMII tool to reset. Is this true?
Also I looked underneath the hood but those only appear to be relays. I can't find where the acutal fuses maybe and the book that I have and it says that fuses are self-resetting and need the ODMII tool to reset. Is this true?
B33p3r
10-03-2005, 08:08 PM
Listen to GTP.....there is a loose wire somewhere. Maybe grounding out preventing windows and lock funtions to operate. Look for a White/pink wire. It is probably your issue. Yes if it's shorted in the passenger door, it can cause problems in the drivers door.
thatnigga
10-06-2005, 01:19 PM
It's not that I don't trust him I'm just trying to get a better understanding of what exactly he is telling me to do. He said that he wants me to take off the panel, I'm asking on which side? Also he tells me to check the fuses, as of right now the only fuse box that I can see is under the hood and doesn't contain any fuses but contains relays.
Also since I first listed this problem it has gotten worse. Now the radio will randomly turn itself off then back on and when I put a CD in it will play and then randomly stop the CD and make a really lound buzzing sound throughout the car before the CD starts playing again. Please let me know where to look to solve both these problems. Thank you.
Also since I first listed this problem it has gotten worse. Now the radio will randomly turn itself off then back on and when I put a CD in it will play and then randomly stop the CD and make a really lound buzzing sound throughout the car before the CD starts playing again. Please let me know where to look to solve both these problems. Thank you.
B33p3r
10-06-2005, 09:46 PM
If some lock/window switches work and some don't then it won't be a fuse problem. Windows and locks are both fed off of fuse 28 in the IPM(Intelligent Power Module) located under the hood. If you're only seeing relays, then you are in the wrong box.
I'm still thinking you have a wire or 2 shorting out in the passenger door. Since this is the original problem and you had to do some work in there, I'm figuring some wires got bumped around. Looking at the schematics, nothing seems to make sense trying to figure your problems.
Does the drivers side rear vent window work? That is fed from the same power feed as the driver door window. Passenger side vent from the same power feed as the passenger door switch. The lock actuators are controlled by the BCM but the power feed to the switch is the same pink/white wire that feeds the windows.
My suggestion is to open the passenger door again. Take a good hard look at the wiring to the connectors for the window switch and the door lock switch. Make sure the connectors are tight and seated properly. Look at each individual wire where it is fastened to these connectors. On the window switch pink/white, orange/grey, and orange/tan are major players in the window circuit for the drivers door switch also. Take a good look at all however.
Buzzing in your radio, if tied in with the window thing, could have something to do with a ground wire. Try the vent windows, check the wiring and post back. If still not good we'll go deeper.
I'm still thinking you have a wire or 2 shorting out in the passenger door. Since this is the original problem and you had to do some work in there, I'm figuring some wires got bumped around. Looking at the schematics, nothing seems to make sense trying to figure your problems.
Does the drivers side rear vent window work? That is fed from the same power feed as the driver door window. Passenger side vent from the same power feed as the passenger door switch. The lock actuators are controlled by the BCM but the power feed to the switch is the same pink/white wire that feeds the windows.
My suggestion is to open the passenger door again. Take a good hard look at the wiring to the connectors for the window switch and the door lock switch. Make sure the connectors are tight and seated properly. Look at each individual wire where it is fastened to these connectors. On the window switch pink/white, orange/grey, and orange/tan are major players in the window circuit for the drivers door switch also. Take a good look at all however.
Buzzing in your radio, if tied in with the window thing, could have something to do with a ground wire. Try the vent windows, check the wiring and post back. If still not good we'll go deeper.
thatnigga
10-08-2005, 11:07 PM
Okay I'm, going to open up both of the doors tomororw afternoon. As for your questions every other window goes up and down except for the drivers side front window. For example the passenger front window works perfectly now that I replaced the glass. And both back vent windows open without any problems. As for the lock situation it is every once in awhile when I can't get it to lock from the driver side switch. But on the passenger side it opens and locks without any problem, and also does so with the remote key without any problems. So I will open back up the passenger side and look around and see what I can find out. Thanks for trying to help, I appreciate it.
B33p3r
10-09-2005, 10:22 PM
That helps. The drivers window and the drivers rear vent window use the same power feed. They also use the same ground. So either your drivers side switch has a problem or your drivers side window
regulator/motor has a problem. If you open up the drivers door, tap on the regulator for the motor and see if it doesn't work all right. You can test for 12 volts on the regulator plug to ground while activating the drivers switch to see if power is getting to the regulator.
regulator/motor has a problem. If you open up the drivers door, tap on the regulator for the motor and see if it doesn't work all right. You can test for 12 volts on the regulator plug to ground while activating the drivers switch to see if power is getting to the regulator.
thatnigga
10-15-2005, 11:48 AM
Ok I finally found the time to go in and test all of that out. So I pulled off the the door and hooked up a voltmeter. It appers that when the switch is activated I'm finding voltage on the plug that goes into the motor. So from somewhere on here it says that if there is voltage at the motor and the motor isn't activating then it must be the motor (I know that that was too logical for me to even repeat but I did anyways). So it appears that the motor is out. My question is can I buy just the motor and hook it up to the regulator? Or do I have to buy new regulator and motor. Thanks.
thatnigga
10-20-2005, 08:03 PM
anyone have an idea?
krushmoto
10-21-2005, 12:48 AM
As far as I know the Caravan is a motor & regulator set. But if you don't want to change the regulator you can use a flat head screwdriver and pry off the cover that the regulator plugs into and swap the cable spools but I don't recommend doing that since the two motors may have different drives for the spools and you have to be careful or else the cable in the spool will unwind and you're basically screwed. So just change the whole thing out. It may make life hard for a little bit but it's better than being out ~$60-70 with a good motor but bad regulator.
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