No Power After Engine Rebuilt:Timing???????
Mailt4
10-01-2005, 11:48 AM
Hi Guys,
I just finished Rebuild the Engine on my 85 4cly, now when I drive it , fell like the Engine is going to stall in mid throtle, if you rev it up then it seem ok but you shift from 1-2 or 2-3 and so on you have to smashed the throtle just to keep moving(not good when you are in front of a Cop)
I do not have any info on timing, my current timing is if you jump Terminal A & B in Dios Connecter (Base) the timing mark is at "0", if not , the timing mark is at 10 degree ATDC,
Is my timing good???,anything else, if not, please share the Procedure
Thanks
Mai
**
I just finished Rebuild the Engine on my 85 4cly, now when I drive it , fell like the Engine is going to stall in mid throtle, if you rev it up then it seem ok but you shift from 1-2 or 2-3 and so on you have to smashed the throtle just to keep moving(not good when you are in front of a Cop)
I do not have any info on timing, my current timing is if you jump Terminal A & B in Dios Connecter (Base) the timing mark is at "0", if not , the timing mark is at 10 degree ATDC,
Is my timing good???,anything else, if not, please share the Procedure
Thanks
Mai
**
ctesla
10-01-2005, 02:06 PM
Hey Mai,
first common questions:
did you degree and/or break-in the cam?
if your idle is off from the get go, did you pull plugs and re-check compression?
all vacuum lines plugged in? no kinks or crimped ones?
same with electrical connections?
did you cold lash the valves? or bring it to temp with vavle cover off and hot lash them?
no over-sized injectors and still stock Throttle Body right? no aftermarket intake? or headers?
timing marks on the gears were in line from crank to cam?
if you know all this to be good, then on to the easy part:
your '85 is still with distributor correct?
not coil pack/ECM fired.
so, yes, first bring the car to operating temp at idle, and make sure your engine light stays off.
shut off engine.
then jumper the A/B hook-up to #1 with the timing gun, fire the vehicle up, and let it idle to operating temp.
light should start flashing on dash.
use the gun and check your mark, regardless of where your mark is, just make note of it.
then move your gun to #4 wire, and take another reading with the light.
add both numbers together and divide by 2.
your solution should be close to what is specified on your emissions / timing sticker in the engine bay.
if not, put the gun back on #1, adjust the distributor:
(I think?) if the number was higher than your tag you turn CW; either way, get it to the tag number, then back to #4 and re-check that it matches, or split the difference.
then, lock down the dist., get the gun out, remove your hot wire jumper (make sure engine light stays off), and spin her around the block to find a cop (just kidding).
...now the ECM can adjust for variances in climate and altitude, etc. AFTER drive cycles are performed. odds are you haven't been tooling it around for a couple hundred miles though, so if you purchased this car in Miami, and you've since moved to Denver (or vice-versa), your Vehicle Emmisions Inspection sticker is wrong by 3-6 degrees.
(not everyone lives at sea level)
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
first common questions:
did you degree and/or break-in the cam?
if your idle is off from the get go, did you pull plugs and re-check compression?
all vacuum lines plugged in? no kinks or crimped ones?
same with electrical connections?
did you cold lash the valves? or bring it to temp with vavle cover off and hot lash them?
no over-sized injectors and still stock Throttle Body right? no aftermarket intake? or headers?
timing marks on the gears were in line from crank to cam?
if you know all this to be good, then on to the easy part:
your '85 is still with distributor correct?
not coil pack/ECM fired.
so, yes, first bring the car to operating temp at idle, and make sure your engine light stays off.
shut off engine.
then jumper the A/B hook-up to #1 with the timing gun, fire the vehicle up, and let it idle to operating temp.
light should start flashing on dash.
use the gun and check your mark, regardless of where your mark is, just make note of it.
then move your gun to #4 wire, and take another reading with the light.
add both numbers together and divide by 2.
your solution should be close to what is specified on your emissions / timing sticker in the engine bay.
if not, put the gun back on #1, adjust the distributor:
(I think?) if the number was higher than your tag you turn CW; either way, get it to the tag number, then back to #4 and re-check that it matches, or split the difference.
then, lock down the dist., get the gun out, remove your hot wire jumper (make sure engine light stays off), and spin her around the block to find a cop (just kidding).
...now the ECM can adjust for variances in climate and altitude, etc. AFTER drive cycles are performed. odds are you haven't been tooling it around for a couple hundred miles though, so if you purchased this car in Miami, and you've since moved to Denver (or vice-versa), your Vehicle Emmisions Inspection sticker is wrong by 3-6 degrees.
(not everyone lives at sea level)
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
Mailt4
10-02-2005, 12:58 PM
Hey Chris, Thanks for the info,
The punch line is my 85 Fiero has a FERRARI skin on it, so I have no # to compare with my reading,
Do you know what # should be?????
Thanks
Mai
**
The punch line is my 85 Fiero has a FERRARI skin on it, so I have no # to compare with my reading,
Do you know what # should be?????
Thanks
Mai
**
ctesla
10-02-2005, 06:04 PM
Hey Chris, Thanks for the info,
The punch line is my 85 Fiero has a FERRARI skin on it, so I have no # to compare with my reading,
Do you know what # should be?????
Thanks
Mai
**
ok,
initial timing should be: 8 degrees BTDC
(again realize this is for sea level; add 1-2 degrees for every 2,500ft)
OR--- since you've got the ferrari body, top it out: try running it at 11-14 degrees (with high octane) if no knocking or pinging or rattling, GREAT! if noisy, or bogging, back down to 10-12, and recheck.
now swap out the original GM coil. get the BIG Accel one and bolt it to the sheet metal wall or trunk somewhere, and see if your timing, acceleration, throttle response, fuel economy, AND redline (yes redline) don't all go UP somewhat. so will your emissions, but you can de-tune prior to a test (if your area is affected by big bro).
get a high flow cat, and replace muffler with straight pipe. you'll get some rasp (not as much as the import "fart" cannons, but a note closer to italia than GM. and with no muffler, again a little better power band.
(a header and/or resonator tips will push your little pontiac as close to sounding ferrari as budget allows, and giving that extra HP/TQ/mpg a boost as well)
if a Holley TBI is within the budget, these can be adjusted to 15psi, not harm the four cylinder gas mileage much, but definitely see a 5000-5500RPM redline, power/torque improvements, and close to 125+HP.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
The punch line is my 85 Fiero has a FERRARI skin on it, so I have no # to compare with my reading,
Do you know what # should be?????
Thanks
Mai
**
ok,
initial timing should be: 8 degrees BTDC
(again realize this is for sea level; add 1-2 degrees for every 2,500ft)
OR--- since you've got the ferrari body, top it out: try running it at 11-14 degrees (with high octane) if no knocking or pinging or rattling, GREAT! if noisy, or bogging, back down to 10-12, and recheck.
now swap out the original GM coil. get the BIG Accel one and bolt it to the sheet metal wall or trunk somewhere, and see if your timing, acceleration, throttle response, fuel economy, AND redline (yes redline) don't all go UP somewhat. so will your emissions, but you can de-tune prior to a test (if your area is affected by big bro).
get a high flow cat, and replace muffler with straight pipe. you'll get some rasp (not as much as the import "fart" cannons, but a note closer to italia than GM. and with no muffler, again a little better power band.
(a header and/or resonator tips will push your little pontiac as close to sounding ferrari as budget allows, and giving that extra HP/TQ/mpg a boost as well)
if a Holley TBI is within the budget, these can be adjusted to 15psi, not harm the four cylinder gas mileage much, but definitely see a 5000-5500RPM redline, power/torque improvements, and close to 125+HP.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
Mailt4
10-03-2005, 05:34 PM
Hey Chris,
I put it at 10 Degrees BTDC for now, it runs much better, I'll run it for awhile will see how it feels, I'll you all posted,
Thanks so much
Mai
**
I put it at 10 Degrees BTDC for now, it runs much better, I'll run it for awhile will see how it feels, I'll you all posted,
Thanks so much
Mai
**
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