d16a6 obd1? posible?

does anyone know if i can turn my d16a6 into obd1? if so what distributor, and ecu can i use? Thanks.

i think all obd1 distributors are the same. the distributors on my d15b2(obd0) and d15b vtec(obd1...the engine is pretty much like a d16z6) look like they mount differently. ill have to check tomorrow and see. as far as ecu goes, just any obd1 ecu would work like a p08, p28, p30, p72, etc.

Are you trying to run Hondata or something? Otherwise, I don't see the point in converting.

Are you trying to run Hondata or something?

yes exactly. I've tryed some ebay chips that claim 20hp but dont do shit except bring up my rev limiter(which is totaly worth a $13 chip anyway) but as far as extra hp i dont feel anything. anyway i plan on boosting in the future so Hondata can only help with that. Will i need to get obd1 injectors too?

Stock injectors are okay as long as you wire up the resistor box. You also need a 4 wire o2 sensor.



P.S. You can tune Hondata to give you a few more hp, but it won't be noticeable. You wont see any real gains until you boost or put in some other mod.

Why not just leave it obd-0 and run Chrome or TurboEdit, considering they are free programs.

can chrome or turboedit still give you the tuneability that hondata can? it seems with obd1 there are a lot more "settings" to change.

yeah, and if your set on OBD-1 use uberdata... which is what I use

why uberdata?

why uberdata?


Because it's free :)

uh, yeah u can make u'r d16a6 obd1. pointless, but yeah. i could do the change over for you, and my buddy could do the ecu tuning. u'd need a 92-95 dx/lx ecu and dizzy, obd0-obd1 conversion (or just an obd1 ecu pig tail and rewire it u'rself, i did), no u don't need a 4 wire o2 sensor. yes obd0 runs a 1 wire and obd1 runs a 4 wire, but my buddy was able to program around that for me w/ uberdata. the trouble would just be rewiring u'r dizzy if the obd1 doesn't bolt up. in my case i used a d16a6 dizzy on my d16y8 head, minor modification to the dizzy to get it to fit right, but all is wonderful now. (i should really update my page with my progress)

uh, yeah u can make u'r d16a6 obd1. pointless, but yeah. i could do the change over for you, and my buddy could do the ecu tuning.

the point of me doing this is not to gain HP, but if i do great. I just want to learn to do it. and when i boost in the future it'll come in really handy then.

don't forget if you go obd 1 you need to swap injectors also and rewire those too, its really nothing hard, but just a lot of pointless work.

you dont need to swap injectors, you can use any obd injector you want

I thought you had to use saturated injectors with OBD-1 and peak and hold with obd-0

I thought you had to use saturated injectors with OBD-1 and peak and hold with obd-0



^^Points to above post^^ peak and hold will work if you wire in the resistor box.

yup, you can use any obd injectors with any obd ecu as along as the injectors are wired up correctly meaning a resistor box for obd injectors and just a regular battery volt power wire for obd1 and 2 injectors.

ive run my obd1 civic with obd0 and obd2 injectors. and ive run a obd0 ecu with obd2 injectors. they all ran

ah, so then the question is which is better, Peak and Hold or Saturated?

peak & hold is better

ok now your gettin into stuff i dont know. So, whats hondata? is it a program u use to program the ecu? and what if i wanted to do something like this to my DOHC ZC, what would i have to do?

peak & hold is better

thats if your ecu supports it. ive read on pgmfi.org that having to run a resistor box will delay the response a bit(but i dont know if itll be worse than saturated).

first to 91crx, hondata is a program you use to reprogram your stock honda ecu so you can run aftermarket parts like a turbo safely so you dont blow your motor

kven, any ecu will support any obd injector, the main concern is that you wire it up properly. a resistor box doesnt delay the response. it would be good if you understand how a injector works. with every injector there is always power going to it, when it fires and how long it fires is up to the ecu. how does it accomplish this. so the 2 wires are going to the injector, 1 is a constant power and the 2nd goes to the ecu. so now your thinking, wait if theres constant power going to it then it should be firing all the time, but it doesnt. for an electrical component to work you need power but you also need a ground to complete the circuit ie a car wont start if you dont have the grounds on. so back to injector, what the ecu does is it completes the signal by grounding it so when it grounds it and how long it grounds it is how the injector is fired and that is also why you can run any obd injector with any obd ecu. like everyone is saying all you need to do is supply the power correctly

i know how injectors and electronics in general work; but you are overlooking how exactly both styles of injectors open...saturated and peak and hold injectors open different ways. saturated injectors slowly open against the pressure of the fuel and then hold for a certain amount of time, while a peak and hold gets uses a high current spike to open the injector and then the current lowers to hold it open at a certain level/time(since the opening force is stronger than the saturated injector this means its quicker...think of the saturated injector as a ball valve opened by hand vs. a solenoid valve that opens suddenly). Now i dont know if this will be noticeable, but i have heard of people saying it is...mainly on high-hp apps. when you put a resistor on a PnH injector youre pretty much turning it into a saturated injector.
http://www.stealth316.com/images/fic-circuits.jpg

you can control peak and hold better which is essential for tuning a car. you talking about 1/4 of a second difference, it doesnt matter. theres a reason why you can only get saturated injectors up to a certain cc, after that its only peak and hold