replacing EGR Valve?

ok, so my girls 95 Jimmy SLE with a 4.3L Vortec and automatic tranny started idling bad and the SES light came on about a week ago. So I took it into the shop yesterday. They just called and said they pulled the code and it was a bad EGR Valve and needed replacing. They said the part is like $245 and $80 for install.

There are two other issues that also need to be fixed as well as getting new tires before winter. So I would like to be able to save some money and do this myself if I can. I'm used to working on my Honda but I have done some other work on her Jimmy like all the front ball joints, oil cooler lines, brakes and fan clutch.

So I am comfortable working on her car I just need to know what is involved in replacing an EGR Valve. Are there any special tools required? Is it a hard job to do or something a novice can do?

Any links to procedures or any advice would be greatly appreciated. We need to decide if we are going to have them do it or if it's something I can do very soon here.

Also, I did search but I didn't find any kind of procedures. They may be there but I didn't see any so I appolagize in advance if there is something on this board. I'm new to the board and GMC so please bare with me.

Thanks

The majority of the time, the code is set because a piece of carbon has broken loose and is holding EGR valve open. They usually can be cleaned and don't need to be replaced. I believe that your's is bolted on with two bolts. It is a fairly simply procedure and in no way warrants an $80 price tag. My 98 is a little easier to get to than yours, but it only takes me about ten minutes to remove and clean mine. You will need to get a new gasket for reinstallation, they cost about $1.50.

You simply remove the egr, clean it out with some, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, or throttle body cleaner. and then reinstall it with the new gasket.

really? That easy huh. So I could really just try cleaning it and if that doesn't work then replace it? hmm...maybe I'll do that. With everything else that needs to be done, I think it's worth a try.

Also, I looked on AutoZone.com and they show a Wells brand EGR Valve for like $120. Is Wells a good brand? They also list a EGR Valve gasket from FelPro for like 2 something? Is FelPro a good brand gasket?

Sorry, like I said, I'm used to my Honda and I usually replace gaskets and such with parts from the dealer so I'm not familiar with the brands at the parts stores like AutoZone, Advanced Auto, ect.

Thanks

Yours is quite a bit more difficult than mine, but it is very "do able". I'm not sure how good the Wells brand is. FelPro is one of the best gasket companies in the business.

Here's a post with quite a bit of information:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=422701

great, thanks. Doesn't sound like it's that bad. I have the tools listed in that write-up. I don't have the car here right now to look at because it's still at the shop. We decided to just get the exhaust done now and then when we get it back, I'll change the torsion bar mounts and try cleaning the EGR Valve. If cleaning doesn't work then I'll just buy the Wells one, but I'm going to try cleaning it first.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

Check and see if any parts places have a egr valve gasket with a screen in it.
Tomco carb and some other parts co. brands may have one with screen or you can use a piece of screen wire for a homemade one.
The screen helps keep the carbon balls out of egr valve. Which is most of the problem with them to start with.
MT-2500

1. take off the air intake.
2. right bolt will come out with a ratchet and left bolt u will have to walk it out with a wrench (i believe they are 10mm bolts)
3. replace the gasket when reinstalling.

once in a while i'll get code PO401=egr insuficient flow but my ports and egr were all clean and exhaust and cpi/nut kit are new. its a mystry but no worries, lol.

MT-2500;
Thanks for the tip on the screen. I'll deffinately look into that. I'm hoping the problem is just some carbon buildup stuck in there.

ZL1power69;
You mentioned sometimes you get a code. Do you pull that code yourself or do you take it somewhere? On my Honda (OBD I) I just jumper a plug and turn the key and then count the flashes. But I don't know how to pull the codes on her Jimmy. Is it similar or do I need a scan tool?

Thanks for the replies.

MT-2500;
Thanks for the tip on the screen. I'll deffinately look into that. I'm hoping the problem is just some carbon buildup stuck in there.

ZL1power69;
You mentioned sometimes you get a code. Do you pull that code yourself or do you take it somewhere? On my Honda (OBD I) I just jumper a plug and turn the key and then count the flashes. But I don't know how to pull the codes on her Jimmy. Is it similar or do I need a scan tool?

Thanks for the replies.
i use my grandfather's $400 accron scanner. a 95 jimmy is obd 2(early version) so u need a scanner. u can turn off the light manually buy pulling the ecm fuse for about 15min but the code will still be in the computer.

i use my grandfather's $400 accron scanner. a 95 jimmy is obd 2(early version) so u need a scanner. u can turn off the light manually buy pulling the ecm fuse for about 15min but the code will still be in the computer.

ok, thats what I thought.

So how can I remove the code from the computer once I fix the EGR? I'll probably be working on the car today after work when we pick it up from getting the exhaust replaced.

Can I just disconnect the battery? Will that reset the ECU and the code that was stored inside it?

ok, we picked the car up earlier today. We got it home and I pulled the EGR Valve off. It looks like there are two clumps of carbon buildup stuck in there. I decided to take a picture just to make sure I'm looking at the right part. I've never pulled an EGR Valve before so I'm not fully sure on what should look like. In the picture you can see one of them, there is another clump 180* from the other.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/sexines/7e176af9.jpg

So my next question is, whats the best way to remove those clumps? Should I use a small screw driver and carefully remove the clumps and then spray it down with carb cleaner? Or should I just spray it down with carb cleaner to get those clumps out? If I spray in the big hole, will it come out the small hole with the valve thus flushing the clumps out? I'm quessing I shouldn't spray the clumps into the valve assembly, or should I?

Also, I found AutoZone carries Tomco brand gaskets with screens. The one I went to didn't have any in stock so I have to call around and find one. They cost 12.99 while regular FelPro gaskets without a screen cost 2.99. So I figure if this is such a common problem, it probably best to just spend the extra 10 and get the one with the screen.

You found it and caught the egr valve in the act of having a carbon ball stuck under the plunger.
Good work and good picture.
Get the gasket with a screen or use a piece of metal screen wire inside of two gaskets.
When they start getting carbon balls under the egr valve plunger they keep making the carbon ball for a while. So a screen will help keep them out of egr valve.
To remove the carbon from egr valve just push in on the plunger a little real easy and let it fall out.
But be carefull with them plungers.
If you have a air hose blow out the intake and egr valve ports in intake the best you can.
When you install the egr valve put a little anti seize on ther bolts
Good luck
MT-2500

great, thanks.

Thanks for the tip on how to remove the carbon balls. As soon as I pulled it off I figured that was the problem and all I had to do was remove them. Thanks for confirming.

A $13 gasket is better than having to replace the whole thing.

It wasn't that hard to get to. Just had to remove part of the intake pipe and then use a u-joint adapter to get the socket onto the bolt at the angle needed. Came off pretty easy.

Thanks for the help. I'll go find one of those gaskets with the screen today, remove the carbon balls and reinstall everything.

One last question. Once I have the EGR reinstalled and everything, how do I get rid of the code in the ECU? Will it reset itself because I've had the battery disconnected? Or do I need to do something else?

ok, thats what I thought.

So how can I remove the code from the computer once I fix the EGR? I'll probably be working on the car today after work when we pick it up from getting the exhaust replaced.

Can I just disconnect the battery? Will that reset the ECU and the code that was stored inside it?

pulling the ecm fuse (on the fuse panel on the driver's side dash; 3rd collum, 2nd one down) will turn the light off and sometimes erases the code. last week i pulled it for 15min but decided to scan it to be sure and it was gone. u can rent a scanner from autozone to erase the code once u fix the egr.

ok, so once I finished reinstalling the EGR, pull the fuse for 15 min. If that doesn't do it then I can just rent a scan tool from AutoZone and that can erase the code.

How will I know if pulling the fuse worked or not without renting the scan tool? Or should I just rent the scan tool while I'm at AutoZone buying the screened gasket just to be safe?

Is that scan tool easy to use? I might have some more questions on how to use it once I get the EGR reinstalled and that tool rented. I hope you don't mind if I ask you more questions about the scan tool if I have any problems.

Thanks for you help thus far.

ok, a new problem has arisen.

I got the gasket with a screen and went to install everything. One of the holes are stripped. I don't know what someone did to this thing but it's screwed. I was thinking about trying to retap the holes to a 9mm x 1.25 and then open the holes on the EGR valve slightly to fit a 9mm bolt through.

Is this my only option or is there another way to fix this problem?

ok, so once I finished reinstalling the EGR, pull the fuse for 15 min. If that doesn't do it then I can just rent a scan tool from AutoZone and that can erase the code.

How will I know if pulling the fuse worked or not without renting the scan tool? Or should I just rent the scan tool while I'm at AutoZone buying the screened gasket just to be safe?

Is that scan tool easy to use? I might have some more questions on how to use it once I get the EGR reinstalled and that tool rented. I hope you don't mind if I ask you more questions about the scan tool if I have any problems.

Thanks for you help thus far.
im not sure what brand of scanner autozone has; it may be snap on. i have used snap-on and accron scanners. the cable plugs into the obd 2 port under the dash on the driver's side. they are handheld and have prompts on the screen to tell u what to do. pulling the fuse will turn the light off but u can't tell if the code has been erased or not. i scan it just to make sure there are no new problems with the truck; for my peace of mind. if u have anymore questions feel free to ask. i'm sure i or someone else can answer them.

ok, thanks. When I get to that point I'll be sure to ask if I have any problems.

But right now I'm trying to figure out how I am going to fix the stripped hole. Is my only option to just tap it out with a larger size? I figure that would be better than trying to redrill it and then inserting a threaded plug of some sort.

I'm figuring a 9mm tap should work, I just have to look through a couple catalogs here at work to see if they sell one long enough. My tap handle is too big to fit into the space with a standard length tap. So I figure a 6" or 7" tap should work to get the tap handle into an open spot where I can work with it easier.

What do you think of this idea?

What do you think of this idea?

Re-tapping sounds like your best option. There should be enough material on the egr valve to drill out to larger size. Let us know how it works.

Helicoil make a insert you can drill the hole out and put the insert in and stay with the same sise bolt or you can change it over to a regular sae bolt.
Depending on what helicoil kit you use metric or sae.
The hardest part is getting the having enough room to drill it out.
On the tap you can use a wrench instead of the tap handel in a tight space.
Good luck
MT-2500

I just got done speaking with the machine shop foreman and he suggested trying Keensert.

Finding a long 9mm tap doesn't look promising for starters.

Or, a tap extension would cost ~$20 and I'm not sure if it's to big in diameter to fit inbetween the obsticles.

Helicoils are a good option but the special tools needed make that kind of an expensive venture for a one time thing. That and the fact that the special tap needed may be too hard to tap into the hole because it may be too short to fit into the area in which I have to work in.

The other option he suggested was to use a Keensert. It's much like a Helicoil but it doesn't require a special tap. It only requires a 7/16-14 tap and matching drill to open the hole. Those I'm sure I can find in extended lengths. Plus, at my work we have Keenserts in SAE sizes and a 5/16-18 would fit great. Wouldn't have to open the hole on the EGR but I would have to keep the bolts seperate since they would be very similar. So since my work has some Keenserts I would only have to buy a long 7/16-14 tap and a long drill and then I can use one of the 5/16 Keenserts and driver tool from work.

Here is a picture of a Keensert incase you don't know what it looks like.
http://www.barnhillbolt.com/warehouse/images/1100/1153desc.gif

I'm thinking I might go the Keensert route. What do you think of the Keensert idea?

I have never used them but the picture looks a lot like a helicoil inset. If you have the tools for the keensert go for it.
Good luck
MT-2500

They do look very similar to Helicoils. I don't know what really holds Helicoils in the hole but these have "spikes" that hold it in place. You drill and tap the hole with the correct size and then thread the Keensert into the hole. Once the face is flush, take the special drive tool and drive the "spikes" into the sides of the hole. This prevents the Keensert from rotating as you put in/take out the bolt.

I just got done looking in a Production Tool catalog and found a 7/16-14 tap thats 6" OAL for $12 and a U drill thats 6 3/4" OAL for $6. I'll go home after work and measure to make sure those lengths will work. If so, then tomorrow on my way home from work I'll stop and pick them up and give it shot.

I really hope this works.

FINALLY!

I went to Production Tool yesterday after work and bought a 12" long 3/8" drill and a 6" long spiral point 7/16-14 tap. Total cost was $26 and some change.

Went home and drilled the hole out bigger. Tapped the hole. Neither were hard at all. But the fun was about to begin.

Started putting the Keensert into the hole and had a hell of a time getting it to thread in there. Finally got it to go in but had a hard to turning it because of the area I had to work with. Got it most of the way but then it just didn't want to go anymore and I tapped well through the part so I knew it was tapped far enough.

I tried a bunch of things to get it in without damaging the spikes. Finally I put the 8mm bolt into the 5/16 Keensert hoping it would bind up enough to turn the Keensert in but not get stuck. Well, it sorta worked but when I backed the 8mm bolt out so came the Keensert. So I got the bolt out of the and reinserted the Keensert. This time the Keensert went all the way in.

I tried to drive the spikes down with the special tool but because the the space I had to work with that proved to be very difficult. I finally decided to drive each one in seperately with a puch. 3 went in fine but the fourth was a pain. It bent and I was running out of time. I finally got it down and proceeded to install the EGR.

I put everything back together and took it for a test drive. It drove nice a smooth with a nice smooth idle. The SES light is out but I don't know if the code is erased or not yet. I haven't rented the tool from AutoZone yet. Once I do you'll probably know because I might have some questions. Hopefully I won't but just giving you warning.

I would have taken pictures of the proccess but I was pressed for time. My moms boyfriend had my cordless power tools from when he was building his hunting blind and he needed them again for this weekend so he could finish a couple things on it while he was up there hunting. So I had to get those to my mom to give to him today before he left to go hunting.

I would like to thank everyone for their help in fixing this problem. The shop wanted to charge $325 for it and even with the additional cost of the drill and tap I was able to do it for only $40, saving my girl friend a bunch.

oh, almost forgot.

As I was driving the spikes in, I dropped the special tool. It fell behind where the EGR mounts. So as I was getting it out I found a nut just sitting there. At first I didn't understand why. Then later as I was thinking about it I figured it must have been on the back of the bolt that was holding the EGR on. Whoever stripped it must have just held a nut back there and tightened it the best they could.

Doesn't mean much to this thread but just thought I would share.

Good work well done.
Thanks for posting the out come of getting it fixed.
Glad you got it fixed.
If the light does not come back on the computer will clear the code itself after so many starts without seeing a problem.
MT-2500

cool, thanks. Good to know.