Stealth won't start

My 93 SOHC Stealth sometimes won't start. The engine cranks strongly, but won't fire. I have spark and the fuel pump works. Whatever the problem is, it seems to kill the battery after a day or so. When I recharge the battery, the car will start ok for a few days, and then the problem returns. Could it be some kind of sensor input for the fuel injection or something????? I'm open to suggestions....

Jim Rollo

I don't know much but it could be bad wires? possibly the ignition/ground wires??

I'm having a similar problem in my car. I have a `97 eclipse gs-t and i experience intermittant starting problems as well. Car will run just fine then when i go to start it a few hours later, it turnsover just fine, but won't start. I checked gapping in spark plugs, then for spark, all the wires to the ignition (msd dis-2), ignition coil, and everything seems fine. After letting the car sit for about 2 hours after trying to start it, it starts just fine. Haven't had any problems with the battery like you. This happened for the first time about a week ago and the second time about 6 days after. At first I thought vapor lock to be a possibility due to it only happening once, but to happen twice in a fuel injected car seems unlikely. Please keep posting your experiences as will I. Maybe we can figure this out together.

Gina

Starting problems are tricky.

Since your Stealth's battery isn't holding a charge you could have a bad batter and or alternator. Any parts stor should be able to check that. Beyond that I would check things like the fuel filter, fuel pump, and your ignition wires.

Wondering if any have determined the problem with their Stealths. I just started experiencing the same thing today, only mine sometimes stalls and won't restart or won't start after sitting. It is obviously an electrical issue...maybe ecm. I doubt spark plug wires. It may be oil pressure sending unit...having oil leak on it and getting a bad connection...a few times I have wiggled the wire and it restarted right after but has not been consistent. If you have determined the cause, please email...I have spent the summer away from home on a job assignment and have a 13.5 hr drive back next week. I'll post any solution I find. Thanks

I have a 91 SOHC 3.0 stealth and I myself found one of the major issues to be the leaky capacitors on the EMC board , I replaced mine. It started once but nothing after that..I checked my coil - Hot , Head gaskets are fine , Plenty of compression , Spark plugs are brand new. Bosch splitfires - NO water in my oil and oil new. - I haven't check the wires coming off the distro cap yet though..Maybe it could be the points and contacts in that ? Since it does have 110K miles on it..Oh well , See what I can come up with. If anyone knows , be sure to share =)

I also have a 91 Stealth 3.0 sohc that will not start. Turns over fine but wont kick in. Relays are good. We changed the compasitors and still mothing. The coil for some reason has constant 12v.No spark after the coil either. Plugs/Wires?cap?rotor are like 5 months old, should still be good.Any help woul be great. THX

Hi guys i just picked up a 91 Stealth today for 1,200 bucks in almost mint condition but it has the same problem you all are having. Mine won't start at all. Its getting spark and gas also. The guy i bought it from said it ran fine,he parked it for a month or so went to start it and it won't start cranks like it wants to fir but don't. He told me a guy stopped by his place that has a Stealth and said it probably was his crank sensor but the guy didn't want to invest any more money into the car i guess. I was wondering if any of you Stealth owners have herd of this crank sensor what it's job is and where it's located. Any help would be greatly appriciated as i said i just bought the car today and am new to the Stealth car.
Thanks Rich

I was told a number of things ranging from EGR to O2 sensors, wires, etc. After changing them all, one at a time and still haviong intermittent problems, I was tols crank sensor! PRobelm is, this is really hard to find used, and really expensive.
I did get it changed and it wasn't the problem. Al along, it was the ECM that was turning the check engine light on and misoperating. The car runs fine now.
Come to find out, the crank and cam position sensors hardly go out. The unit, one or two, is mounted in the block itself and doesn't get moved around at all and so doesn't usually fail.
HOwever, a failing ECM is likely to record codes indicating that the cam sensor is the root.
I would be careful, and get the ECM checked first.

Hi guys i just picked up a 91 Stealth today for 1,200 bucks in almost mint condition but it has the same problem you all are having. Mine won't start at all. Its getting spark and gas also. The guy i bought it from said it ran fine,he parked it for a month or so went to start it and it won't start cranks like it wants to fir but don't. He told me a guy stopped by his place that has a Stealth and said it probably was his crank sensor but the guy didn't want to invest any more money into the car i guess. I was wondering if any of you Stealth owners have herd of this crank sensor what it's job is and where it's located. Any help would be greatly appriciated as i said i just bought the car today and am new to the Stealth car.
Thanks Rich

I have a SOHC '93 Stealth too. Where are you from?? I would try bringing the car or the alternator (if the car won't run) to Advance Auto. They can check it for you. Also check out 3si.org. There are 13,500 people on there, most of them have stealths/3000gts. Good luck!

its most likely the ECU! I had the same exact problems, turning over but no start and erratic starting, spark, good coil, distributor, cap, FI, as soon as a put another one in it cranked right up. It is common in dodge vehicles for the computer systems to fail due to weak componets. They cost anywhere from $350-1000 depending on where you get it from. You might even be able to get it rebuilt. Just send it in to a place that specializes in ECMs and get them to check it out! Good luck!! Lemme know if that was your problem. To me, that sounds like exactly what it is.

I have a 91 stealth sohc that had the same problem. Mine wouldn't start when it was cold out. once the temp outside rised a bit it would start. The crank angle sensor was bad. when cold cracks in it would spread and it would not work. Maybe yours is going bad.

Please check my thread and give me your opinion it's car won't start my husband also jiggled wires and got it started.

I'm looking for some direction with an issue with my 1991 5 spd
SOHC.[100,000mi] If anyone can help or direct me to a resource I would greatly
appreciate it.

It started about a week after we had the [2nd] flexible portion of the
exhaust replaced at an exhaust shop. I don't think that's relevant but it
may be...

The car ran fine for a week and then the engine would turn over but not fire
when cold - except after several attempts. Once started and run, even for a
moment, the car would re-start easily unless allowed to sit for an hour or
more.

I had thought it may be the regulator permitting bleeding off pressure from
the fuel rails, and that it would take several moments to refuel the system.
The pump would come briefly and then shut off, until you cycled the key
on/off or turned over the engine. I discovered after replacing the fuel
filter that there was no signal at the injector leads - or at least #1. The
engine would always have ignition spark and If I dribbled fuel into the
throttle body it would eventually start. Of course the test light would
indicate a signal once the car was running.

While trying to dribble fuel into the throttle body to start the car to move
it - it seemed to no longer be firing as it was attempting to start. I
connected a spark tester and now I had no spark at the spark plugs.

No injector signal and now - no spark at the plugs.

I could hear a slight fizzing/arcing noise when the key was on and it seemed
to be coming from under the distributor cap. I replaced the badly corroded
cap and rotor - still no spark - still no injector signal.

I checked and cleaned multiple connections with no improvement. I bought
and installed a new coolant sensor - in the thermostat housing - below the
thermostat - no improvement.

I had the key on while I was checking the ignition for faulty connections or
anything unusual - fuel began to dribble out of the throttle body - the pump
was no longer shutting off and had seriously flooded the engine [injector
stuck open?].

I pulled the spark plugs, unplugged the coil, and spun the engine to clear
the fuel.

I allowed it to air overnight. and then reassembled. Still would not
tart - no spark - no injector signal.


Additional comments/questions:
Plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter - have been changed. Fuses checked -
connections cleaned, grounds confirmed. I had a new regulator on order
which I'll install tomorrow.
The engine has a distributor and apparently only one coil - is there an
"ignition module" within the distributor assembly in addition to the ECU ?
Is the ECU by the drivers left foot in the cab?
I cannot locate a "fuel pump drive terminal" on the firewall - I've
disconnected two items on the firewall but the pump still runs.

Is there a safety device/strategy that can disable the injector signal
[i.e.: no start or rpm rise when cranking]. If there is no spark is the
injector signal disabled?

If one injector sticks or fails, does it disrupt or "confuse" the signal for
the remaining injectors?

What is the most likely culprit?
Where is a good source for used /new/ rebuilt electrical components?
What is the best service manual or CD to get for this engine?
Thanks - RR