Wicked Shimmy

Need help here.Car is getting a wicked shimmy when i hit 40 mph when it hits 60 it goes away also when i go into a slight right turn it goes away.Starts to shimmy when i reduce speed and start to brake at 40 mph.Tires are balanced and torqued to spec.Help from you bimmer experts much appreciated.Car is a 96 740IL.........Thanx

wheel bearings bad tire lower control arms front or rear. at 40mph does noise change when going quickly right or left changing lanes...

Thats the thing,no noise whatsoever....

What kind of car?

What kind of car?
Car is a 96 BMW 740IL

I would have the upper control arm bushings checked. I do not know mileage on your car, but on my 1988 750 I could never get over 70,000 miles on the bushings before replacement. If it is your bushings, there are Urethane bushings available (BAVAUTO is one source) that can prolong bushing life.

Ya, my 89' did the same thing with the shuddering and the people at the local dealership did not have a clue as did the only people that service BMWs here so i had to hunt all over the net to find an answer. And it was the control arm bushings that were the problem a nice easy fix since I thought it might have been the transmission.

These control arm bushings seem to be limited to about 70,000 miles (IMHO) and the wicked shimmy, this symptom usually starts around 45 mph to 55 mph so I do not know why the sealer service facilities are sometimes clueless to the nature of the problem. I have used the basic and the urethane bushings but saw no difference in the mileage before changing the bushings was required.

I had the same issue. I replaced the front brakes and rotors, the uuper control arm bushings, the stabalizer bars, the inner tie rod, the struts, the idler arm, and the tires all they way around. Now all of this needed to be replaced on my BMW, but i think the upper control arms and the tires had alot to do w/ my shimmy..

I had the same issue. I replaced the front brakes and rotors, the uuper control arm bushings, the stabalizer bars, the inner tie rod, the struts, the idler arm, and the tires all they way around. Now all of this needed to be replaced on my BMW, but i think the upper control arms and the tires had alot to do w/ my shimmy..
That's worst case senario...sometimes the shimmy will never go away, but 90% of the time it is cured.

Control arm bushings are the usual culprit. Tire balance and correct tire pressure (usually 4PSI below MAX tire pressure is ideal) also have a huge effect. Sticking calipers and warped brake rotors.

Another way to go if you are considering replacing the upper control arm bushings, is to buy new control arms with the ball joints and control arm bushings already installed. A bit pricey, but on my '88 750 it was a heck of a lot easier, once I got the old ball joints out (ruined one pickle fork and ended up using a hammer to tap the joint out) plus you get new ball joints as well as new control arm bushings, and some suppliers have these arms with the urethane bushings already installed.

It's the only way to go as far as I'm concerned. I found them to be obviously more pricey than the bushing themselves, but the time you safe is well worth it. Besides this place has them at a reasonable price..
http://www.bmw-parts-direct.com/