97 Z71 Silverado
'94Blackbird
09-29-2005, 08:23 PM
I'm looking at buying a '97 Silverado Z71 with 127k on it. It has the 5.7 350 auto, king cab, 3rd door, loaded 6 speakers 2 in each front door and 2 in the back. It seems to have highway gears because when I tryed it out it only tached around 1750 at 70 mph. The guy selling it says it gets great gas mileage for a truck over 20mpg. Is this true. And how much would the truck be worth? He is asking $7400.00. Is this a fair price for this truck. The truck is in excellent shape,4 new tires reese hitch, tranny cooler clean in and out. The most work this truck has done was pull a small camper. So if you would tell me what you think because I might buy it on Friday. Oh and did they have any problems with these trucks. Thanks
Hammer59
09-30-2005, 12:00 PM
that truck won't get 20. maybe 15 or 16 on the highway.
SpitAndDirt
10-02-2005, 02:18 AM
I get between 20 and 22 on the highway when it is tuned up. For $7400, that is a steal. I would be looking this truck over as if you were about to evaluate your daughters first boyfriend(j/k!). If the tires are new, they are worth around $600 just by themselves depending on the brand. I bought my 96 at 147,000 with known problems for $6900. I LOVE MY TRUCK, and I do all my own work. I also have friends with these trucks and do work on theirs also.
So here are some of the more major occurances with 96-98 z71's:
Intake gasket leaking and heater hose by-pass nipple breaking off(#1 major complaint and costly repair, about $500), orange Dex-Cool coolant from the factory causing brown "muck" to form in cooling system(Prestone acid flush and green put back in), 4 new ball joints for the front, and radiator tends to crack just below the upper radiator hose connection(sometimes covered by the hose). Some people have had major issues with the 4L60-e trannsmission with something called the "Reaction Gear Sunshell" breaking. http://www.transhardparts.com/parts/parts/77749-01.htm http://www.transmissioncenter.net/extreme_duty_parts.htm
You would lose reverse and second gear if it broke. Smell the fluid on the tranny dipstick to see if its burnt. The fluid should be blood red or brighter when put on a paper towel. No particles should be apparent.
The A/C did not work when I bought my truck and it cost me $700 on parts to rebuild the ENTIRE system, roughly. I should have spent a ton more, but I severly undercut the local parts stores by going through the distributor. I used Modine Holdings out of Dallas for Accumulator, Condensor, Evaporator, and Orifice tube. I bought new lines from the dealer, and a factory Delphi(AC Delco/Harrison) compressor online for $300. I also bought a quart of yellow R-134a oil from a SuperCool online retailer(only used about 8oz). The compressor seals like to leak from GM's use of a lesser-quality compressor oil eating away at them. The compressor is $450 new from the parts store, $630 from the dealer. Any notable noise from the compressor while it's working could indicate upcoming failure. Should be very smooth and you should not hear it over the normal sound of the engine running.
Smaller items include the oil filter adaptor gaskets leaking($5-dealer), the distributor cap and rotor burning their center electrodes($40), power steering pressure hose and return line, door hinge pins and bushings needing replacement because of door sag($60-dealer parts), interior door handle breaks(very common-$28/dealer), HVAC control units are known to be flaky sometimes, water pump leaking through lower weep hole, pre-catylist O2 sensors needing replaced($100), starter(AC Delco-Oreilly's $110), Maxx Batter from Wal-Mart($60-original AC Delcos leak acid through the positive terminal), corrosion between the stacked positive terminals. The brake light switch likes to give no warning going out, causing no brake lights to come on. The light boards in the rear tail lamp assemblies get moisture in them and short out.
In addition, my drivers door lock/window combo switch is starting to malfunction. It wont allow me to lock/unlock the doors, but the windows work fine. Sometimes the exterior door handles crack or become loose. If the truck has captin's chairs like mine, the power seat mechanism starts to act funny if it gets used alot. Someone I know for sure was getting their groove on in the front passenger seat before I bought it, or the guy was really fat, because the seat moves back and forth. Replaced the seat riser assembly for $160/dealer.
The muffler was replaced with a Flowmaster dual-in/dual-out setup($450). When it was replaced at 166,000, chunks of catylist fell out. I also had to replace the exhaust pipe/manifold flange gaskets(donuts) because they blew out from the cats clogging up. I still need to replace the cats.
I haven't had a problem yet with my fuel pump, but some people have. Grounding problems cause a flaky, erratic fuel level reading from the sender unit in the tank in addition to burning pumps out. Change your fuel filter every 12k or every year. The oil pressure gauge gets flaky and erratic too from a sensor breaking internally and letting oil hit the contacts. My rear main seal and transmission front pump seal leak nominally, they'll get replaced when I rip out the powertrain to rebuild it around 215,000 miles.
I took things a step further and replaced my valve stem seals. I went from burning a quart of oil every 3000 miles to only half a quart every 6000! I use full synthetic Mobil 1 5w-30 and AC-Delco filters exclusively where as I buy the oil in a 5qt jug from Wal-Mart for $20.
It probably seems like a lot of stuff, but I am extreme when it comes to upkeep, and saving money. My truck is nearly new now and I didn't drop over 25k to do it. I have about $9500 right now invested into it. It will be paid off next April.
Good luck with your purchase and I hope this helps! -Chris
So here are some of the more major occurances with 96-98 z71's:
Intake gasket leaking and heater hose by-pass nipple breaking off(#1 major complaint and costly repair, about $500), orange Dex-Cool coolant from the factory causing brown "muck" to form in cooling system(Prestone acid flush and green put back in), 4 new ball joints for the front, and radiator tends to crack just below the upper radiator hose connection(sometimes covered by the hose). Some people have had major issues with the 4L60-e trannsmission with something called the "Reaction Gear Sunshell" breaking. http://www.transhardparts.com/parts/parts/77749-01.htm http://www.transmissioncenter.net/extreme_duty_parts.htm
You would lose reverse and second gear if it broke. Smell the fluid on the tranny dipstick to see if its burnt. The fluid should be blood red or brighter when put on a paper towel. No particles should be apparent.
The A/C did not work when I bought my truck and it cost me $700 on parts to rebuild the ENTIRE system, roughly. I should have spent a ton more, but I severly undercut the local parts stores by going through the distributor. I used Modine Holdings out of Dallas for Accumulator, Condensor, Evaporator, and Orifice tube. I bought new lines from the dealer, and a factory Delphi(AC Delco/Harrison) compressor online for $300. I also bought a quart of yellow R-134a oil from a SuperCool online retailer(only used about 8oz). The compressor seals like to leak from GM's use of a lesser-quality compressor oil eating away at them. The compressor is $450 new from the parts store, $630 from the dealer. Any notable noise from the compressor while it's working could indicate upcoming failure. Should be very smooth and you should not hear it over the normal sound of the engine running.
Smaller items include the oil filter adaptor gaskets leaking($5-dealer), the distributor cap and rotor burning their center electrodes($40), power steering pressure hose and return line, door hinge pins and bushings needing replacement because of door sag($60-dealer parts), interior door handle breaks(very common-$28/dealer), HVAC control units are known to be flaky sometimes, water pump leaking through lower weep hole, pre-catylist O2 sensors needing replaced($100), starter(AC Delco-Oreilly's $110), Maxx Batter from Wal-Mart($60-original AC Delcos leak acid through the positive terminal), corrosion between the stacked positive terminals. The brake light switch likes to give no warning going out, causing no brake lights to come on. The light boards in the rear tail lamp assemblies get moisture in them and short out.
In addition, my drivers door lock/window combo switch is starting to malfunction. It wont allow me to lock/unlock the doors, but the windows work fine. Sometimes the exterior door handles crack or become loose. If the truck has captin's chairs like mine, the power seat mechanism starts to act funny if it gets used alot. Someone I know for sure was getting their groove on in the front passenger seat before I bought it, or the guy was really fat, because the seat moves back and forth. Replaced the seat riser assembly for $160/dealer.
The muffler was replaced with a Flowmaster dual-in/dual-out setup($450). When it was replaced at 166,000, chunks of catylist fell out. I also had to replace the exhaust pipe/manifold flange gaskets(donuts) because they blew out from the cats clogging up. I still need to replace the cats.
I haven't had a problem yet with my fuel pump, but some people have. Grounding problems cause a flaky, erratic fuel level reading from the sender unit in the tank in addition to burning pumps out. Change your fuel filter every 12k or every year. The oil pressure gauge gets flaky and erratic too from a sensor breaking internally and letting oil hit the contacts. My rear main seal and transmission front pump seal leak nominally, they'll get replaced when I rip out the powertrain to rebuild it around 215,000 miles.
I took things a step further and replaced my valve stem seals. I went from burning a quart of oil every 3000 miles to only half a quart every 6000! I use full synthetic Mobil 1 5w-30 and AC-Delco filters exclusively where as I buy the oil in a 5qt jug from Wal-Mart for $20.
It probably seems like a lot of stuff, but I am extreme when it comes to upkeep, and saving money. My truck is nearly new now and I didn't drop over 25k to do it. I have about $9500 right now invested into it. It will be paid off next April.
Good luck with your purchase and I hope this helps! -Chris
'94Blackbird
10-03-2005, 10:13 PM
Wow, thats alot of stuff Chris. But I thank you for the information. I bought the truck, It works great. In the glove box I found the origanal window sticker with the price and options on it. The truck sold for 28,671 brand new in '97. It has 3:42 gears and a locking rear differential.
I've only used it to move into a new house but for the amount of driving I did and with the back loaded it didn't seem to bad on gas. It has a 25 gallon tank and I have used about half a tank in 4 days.
It also has a high capacity air cleaner, a HD Auxiliary transmission cooling system with a 6,200 lb GVW Rating. It has tons of other options like a Preferred equipment group 1sb the vortec 5700 v8 third door,Z71 off road chassis equipment package. So far I love the truck and for under 7,500 I don't think I got hurt too bad even if I have to do a few things to it. Thanks for your input.
I've only used it to move into a new house but for the amount of driving I did and with the back loaded it didn't seem to bad on gas. It has a 25 gallon tank and I have used about half a tank in 4 days.
It also has a high capacity air cleaner, a HD Auxiliary transmission cooling system with a 6,200 lb GVW Rating. It has tons of other options like a Preferred equipment group 1sb the vortec 5700 v8 third door,Z71 off road chassis equipment package. So far I love the truck and for under 7,500 I don't think I got hurt too bad even if I have to do a few things to it. Thanks for your input.
broughy84
10-03-2005, 10:47 PM
I don't know where you are located, but 7400 seems a little high to me. But I may not be where you are.
jveik
10-04-2005, 12:43 AM
umm. you made sure that the previous owner wasnt putting stp or whatever in the oil right? my dad had a 350 in his 90 something silverado (non vortec) and it didnt smoke until 180k miles, so i would guess that your motor is in pretty good shape anyways. all i know is that i stick to the older ones cause im a neck that doesnt want to deal with computers lol. thats why im building a 73 instead of a 93 lol. the only problem is the whole saddle tank exploding thing... that could hurt, a lot... i guess ill have to take my chances lol
'94Blackbird
10-04-2005, 01:10 PM
The 7400 was taxes in and on the road but it may seem like alot but the truck is in really good shape. But you never know as with any used car anything could happen but that is the chance you take I guess, but the rest of the truck is in good enough shape that if I have to rebuild the motor or anything I have a good base to start with. And if I do rebuild it I can always pep it up a little bit and chev has so many parts in summit or wherever. I just hope it holds together for a year or so before I have to put much in it.
SpitAndDirt
10-04-2005, 10:50 PM
The truck should hold up very well, as long as you don't let small problems become big problems. A perfect example is the ball joints. They will cause pulling to one side and horrible tire wear. Not to mention gas mileage suffers, and you don't need that with prices these days. Hope you enjoy it and be sure to drop me a line if you come up with something unexpected. -Chris
Dadmech
10-18-2005, 01:14 PM
I think you got a great deal. Same model selling in PA for 9000.
Good luck with it.
Bob
Good luck with it.
Bob
houndog3
04-11-2011, 04:58 PM
yea you will get 20mpg..my 97 z71 got 18.75 going to florida from michigan and doing about 73mph avg. and i got 3.73
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