97' escort idle problem...please help
american_muscle97
09-29-2005, 04:32 AM
ok, my 97 escort has a problem at idle... its been getting worse since it started couple of weeks ago and now i figure i should probably do something about it, seein as how most of us use our cars almost everyday. the best way i guess to describe the problem is that the engine repetatively shakes , it only happens when no throttle is applied usually a moment after starting the car and when stoping at lights. sometimes it stalls and other times it will return to "not broken" mode... ive had ppl tell its either the O2 sensor or the pcv line.. if anyone knows which it might be , or if something else, let me know, ide appreciate it, thanks
GTP Dad
09-29-2005, 05:26 AM
Idle air control motor is dirty or defective. Remove and spray with throttle body cleaner. Let dry, replace. 10 minute job, should improve things.
lui1828
09-29-2005, 10:19 AM
I have 95 escort wagon that died at stop lights also. take a look at the pvc elbow that starts near the intake manifold. Mine had a hole in it. I tape it with electrical tape and it worked. Later I brought a 12 inch hose and I used it in place of the elbow.
You can't find a replacement elbow in the auto parts store. You can buy the hose for $1.50 in the auto store.
You can't find a replacement elbow in the auto parts store. You can buy the hose for $1.50 in the auto store.
american_muscle97
09-29-2005, 01:09 PM
thats amazing... i figured my car wouldnt just have this hole in the hose somewhere, but wouldnt u know it, the pcv line had this perfect little hole in it which i temporarly sealed with some electical tape and now the car runs fine again. i didnt think this many ppl drove an escort... but anyways, thanks, now i dont have to pull $50 out of my ass just to get it diagnosed. seriously thanks a lot...
lui1828
09-29-2005, 01:38 PM
actually I found the pvc hole problem in a previous thread. The thanks should go out to all those who contribute to this forum !!!
chevyn0va1
09-30-2005, 08:48 AM
actually I found the pvc hole problem in a previous thread. The thanks should go out to all those who contribute to this forum !!!
which elbow are you all refereing too? in my car the pcv is inline a tube and I dont see an elbow. (if yours is like that does yours have a bend in it at the bottom near my pug wire in this pic?
http://hometown.aol.com/fordescortse2pt0/pcvalve.jpg
which elbow are you all refereing too? in my car the pcv is inline a tube and I dont see an elbow. (if yours is like that does yours have a bend in it at the bottom near my pug wire in this pic?
http://hometown.aol.com/fordescortse2pt0/pcvalve.jpg
lui1828
09-30-2005, 09:25 AM
In the 1995 there is a rubber elbow that leads out of the intake mainifold. at the other end is the pcv value. On my friends 1998 escort, it has the same elbow. If you go to autozone.com you can find a picture of it in the online 1995 escort repair guide
(under routine maintence- pcv value). In any case
if the line has a hole in it , the engine will shake violently, and die while idle. I think I read somewhere that to test the pcv line for leaks
1) remove pcv value
2) turn engine on
3) hold sheet of paper to end of hose where pcv
was detached
4) if paper does not stick to hose, you have vacumn leak indicating a defective hose
(under routine maintence- pcv value). In any case
if the line has a hole in it , the engine will shake violently, and die while idle. I think I read somewhere that to test the pcv line for leaks
1) remove pcv value
2) turn engine on
3) hold sheet of paper to end of hose where pcv
was detached
4) if paper does not stick to hose, you have vacumn leak indicating a defective hose
SSJSephiroth
10-01-2005, 02:41 PM
i seem to be having the same idle issue. I have unbolted the idle air moter, cleaned it out (with break cleaner and using an old mascara brush to scrub). When I try to start the moter it works fine for about 2 seconds then the moter drops down to a low low idle and, pulsates for a bit, then dies. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Someone told me I need to reset the computer in my car so the moter can attempt to find it's "neutral" spot, but i've disconnected the battery for an hour and then tried again and it didn't seem to help.
i know the moter is working because i pushed the piston like object all the way to one side and tried again and the moter moved it. Once again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
i know the moter is working because i pushed the piston like object all the way to one side and tried again and the moter moved it. Once again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
dlbdata
10-02-2005, 05:57 AM
i seem to be having the same idle issue. I have unbolted the idle air moter, cleaned it out (with break cleaner and using an old mascara brush to scrub). When I try to start the moter it works fine for about 2 seconds then the moter drops down to a low low idle and, pulsates for a bit, then dies. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Someone told me I need to reset the computer in my car so the moter can attempt to find it's "neutral" spot, but i've disconnected the battery for an hour and then tried again and it didn't seem to help.
i know the moter is working because i pushed the piston like object all the way to one side and tried again and the moter moved it. Once again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The hole in the PCV hose causing idle problems is a common problem on the Escorts, happened to me too. Caused the stall when I cam to a stop.
Now I was having the up & down idle problem when I came to a stop. I tried taking the IAC off and cleaning it. I probably made a mistake in using WD40 (too strong a cleaner), and it actually seemed to make the problem worse. So I went out and bought some CRC Throttle Body&Air Intake cleaner (says it is safe for teflon coated parts). I sprayed this into the throttle body (took air intake hose off) while revving the engine up & down. Also sprayed some of it up into the holes in the throttle body that lead up to the IAC. This seems to have fixed the up&down idle problem.
i know the moter is working because i pushed the piston like object all the way to one side and tried again and the moter moved it. Once again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The hole in the PCV hose causing idle problems is a common problem on the Escorts, happened to me too. Caused the stall when I cam to a stop.
Now I was having the up & down idle problem when I came to a stop. I tried taking the IAC off and cleaning it. I probably made a mistake in using WD40 (too strong a cleaner), and it actually seemed to make the problem worse. So I went out and bought some CRC Throttle Body&Air Intake cleaner (says it is safe for teflon coated parts). I sprayed this into the throttle body (took air intake hose off) while revving the engine up & down. Also sprayed some of it up into the holes in the throttle body that lead up to the IAC. This seems to have fixed the up&down idle problem.
AzTumbleweed
10-02-2005, 04:50 PM
I had this problem and fixed it by replacing the 02 sensor and PCV valve. Don't know which one actually fixed it but it's never done it since.
noise_vibration
10-03-2005, 03:23 PM
Me too. But my problem is that when the car is cool, it's ok. The problem happens only when the car warms up or the temperature is high. Can anybody give some ideas? Thanks.
Arnoldtheskier
10-03-2005, 08:46 PM
Mine does it too..has for a few years now..LOL..will PROBABLLY be doing it when it is gone..HEHEHAHA. I don't like/let it shake too much and have pretty much perfected EXACTLLY how much combo of throttle and brake.
I did the iac,t/body clean(CRC stuff too).Check your computer codes..both hard and soft codes.
Seeing as how this is often (mine) too a warm/hot only problem..I am sortta guessing it is a bad,dirty injector..as during cold start there is a richening..hence no problem.Once warm..a leaner mixture..my guess is the injector is either dirty or bad..either way I am guessing it is leaking(dripping at the nozzle).
A cylinder drop(rpm) as cylinders are de-activated(either by the old pull a plug wire at a time) or by using the program that is activated by a scanner will show the bad cylinder.This could probablly be analysed by a larger diagnostic unit(dealer) or fi specialist and the bad fuel mixture in cylinder x picked up
Guess then you could test or switch the injector.
My car spends so little time at idle that I don't really care enough about it to fix it.PLUS! it pretty much runs like new elsewise..I ain't gonna tinker with it.
A pressurized injector flush with a solvent may fix it..I dunno.
Closest I came to fixing mine was raising the idle speed.DO NOT! even think of fiddling with your own t.body idle speed!!..you will probablly NEVER EVER get it to run right again..get another t.body from the bone..the idle speed screw is threaded into the t.body..mine looks like it has some sort of thread locker on it. I am sure with another t.body you can get this screw to adjust(it IS threaded all the way through!).Then you could slap this t.body on and try it.Drawback.The cold idle speed will be higher..this would be a pain for me as I do not warm up cars. In the winter with a damp night and defrost problem..of course this leaves me no choice.
Anyway..my .02 cents on this..
I did the iac,t/body clean(CRC stuff too).Check your computer codes..both hard and soft codes.
Seeing as how this is often (mine) too a warm/hot only problem..I am sortta guessing it is a bad,dirty injector..as during cold start there is a richening..hence no problem.Once warm..a leaner mixture..my guess is the injector is either dirty or bad..either way I am guessing it is leaking(dripping at the nozzle).
A cylinder drop(rpm) as cylinders are de-activated(either by the old pull a plug wire at a time) or by using the program that is activated by a scanner will show the bad cylinder.This could probablly be analysed by a larger diagnostic unit(dealer) or fi specialist and the bad fuel mixture in cylinder x picked up
Guess then you could test or switch the injector.
My car spends so little time at idle that I don't really care enough about it to fix it.PLUS! it pretty much runs like new elsewise..I ain't gonna tinker with it.
A pressurized injector flush with a solvent may fix it..I dunno.
Closest I came to fixing mine was raising the idle speed.DO NOT! even think of fiddling with your own t.body idle speed!!..you will probablly NEVER EVER get it to run right again..get another t.body from the bone..the idle speed screw is threaded into the t.body..mine looks like it has some sort of thread locker on it. I am sure with another t.body you can get this screw to adjust(it IS threaded all the way through!).Then you could slap this t.body on and try it.Drawback.The cold idle speed will be higher..this would be a pain for me as I do not warm up cars. In the winter with a damp night and defrost problem..of course this leaves me no choice.
Anyway..my .02 cents on this..
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