95 Continental Won't start - replace computer?
drewlane
09-26-2005, 04:15 PM
Our 95 Lincoln continental wouldn't start the other day. It will crank but the engine won't start.
Had it towed to our mechanic. He said no fuel was getting to the engine and that the computer was not responding. They want to replace the computer, which is fairly expensive and all.
Is it typical for the computer to just stop working one day?
Could it be as simple as a fuse?
Thanks!
Had it towed to our mechanic. He said no fuel was getting to the engine and that the computer was not responding. They want to replace the computer, which is fairly expensive and all.
Is it typical for the computer to just stop working one day?
Could it be as simple as a fuse?
Thanks!
Towncar
09-26-2005, 06:53 PM
Hi Drew...
There's a possibility this is related to your ignition switch problem..
Did you ever get that one fixed ?
Other than that, have you checked the master relays under the hood in the Power Distribution Box? There seems to be an awful lot of that going around lately.
PS:
The computer going out is rare on this car.
There's a possibility this is related to your ignition switch problem..
Did you ever get that one fixed ?
Other than that, have you checked the master relays under the hood in the Power Distribution Box? There seems to be an awful lot of that going around lately.
PS:
The computer going out is rare on this car.
drewlane
09-26-2005, 07:34 PM
Hi Drew...
There's a possibility this is related to your ignition switch problem..
Did you ever get that one fixed ?
Other than that, have you checked the master relays under the hood in the Power Distribution Box? There seems to be an awful lot of that going around lately.
PS:
The computer going out is rare on this car.
Yes, we had the ignition "tumbler" replaced last week by our mechanic. He gave us new keys. I asked him twice about this causing the problem and he got pissy with me the second time I asked, saying "I already told you we didn't change any of the wiring".
No, I haven't checked the master relays. I've actually had the car towed to the dealer since I thought our mechanic was charging way too much to replace the computer. The dealer wants $900 (including labor) whereas the mechanic wanted $1800 to replace the computer.
The dealer spent several hours with it this morning and came to the same conclusion as our mechanic, BTW.
Should I mention the master relays to the dealer? I assume this is not something I can easily fix myself (I'm not a mechanic).
There's a possibility this is related to your ignition switch problem..
Did you ever get that one fixed ?
Other than that, have you checked the master relays under the hood in the Power Distribution Box? There seems to be an awful lot of that going around lately.
PS:
The computer going out is rare on this car.
Yes, we had the ignition "tumbler" replaced last week by our mechanic. He gave us new keys. I asked him twice about this causing the problem and he got pissy with me the second time I asked, saying "I already told you we didn't change any of the wiring".
No, I haven't checked the master relays. I've actually had the car towed to the dealer since I thought our mechanic was charging way too much to replace the computer. The dealer wants $900 (including labor) whereas the mechanic wanted $1800 to replace the computer.
The dealer spent several hours with it this morning and came to the same conclusion as our mechanic, BTW.
Should I mention the master relays to the dealer? I assume this is not something I can easily fix myself (I'm not a mechanic).
Towncar
09-27-2005, 12:57 AM
Hey Drew,
Be sure these guys are not screwing you.
I agree the computer (PCM, PowertrainControlModule) is expensive --
Since you're not mechanically inclined, I'm afraid your at their mercy.
Most likely they've plugged in an OBDii Code Reader and it failed to communicate with the cars OBD (On Board Diagnostics) system. The connector for this scanner is directly above the gas pedal under the dash. You can feel the connector port while your driving.
If that's their basis for spending $800 without testing for power to the PCM, it may cost a bit more, like $800 + $4 (for a fuse or relay).
I have absolutely NO faith in any service garage, and NO.. the dealers aren't any better than Ma & Pa's place, so I'm a bit bias toward the home mechanic.
The master (high current) fuse/breaker/relay (whichever is used on the Conti) located inside the Power Distribution Box under the hood for the Fuel Pump may also be blown since you wern't getting fuel either.
Technically, the book says "A qualified technician" should replace these "high current" fuses.
However, what they mean is; Disconnect the battery before servicing anything inside the Power Distribution Box, and ensure the correct amperage replacement is used, and be sure the replacement is securely seated.
I'm in no position here to doubt the diagnosis of two seperate mechanical services, and you can't either -- however you have the right to keep ALL the parts removed/replaced on your car. All you have to do is ask for all the old parts to be saved for you.
With the old parts in hand, and a bit of information from the good 'ol boys herein, you can at least verify the parts replaced on your car at least LOOK new....
Dont be too surprized if the old PCM in hand works just as well as the new PCM in car.
[steven talks to himself..]
Shut the Fuk up Steven, quit dissing all those honest mechanics and dealers !!
[the little steven on the other shoulder takes over..]
What the heck? Quit dissing the shops and dealers? Shit man, I can name 50 shops, and at least EVERY dealer's service department I've ever had the displeasure to deal with, that have lied, cheated, falsified documents, added services not performed, double/tripple/quadruple inflated parts costs, to make extra $$.
Here's a good one:
[steven]
Umm, Mr. Service Mgr.. Look over here >> Your billing says these brake pads were contaminated, and the rotors were warped beyond repair, it also says these were replaced, right?
[AV Chrysler Svc Mgr]
Well yes Mr SDH, these things do happen and their not covered by warranty, when the grease splashes around its considered "coinsidental damage" and specifically not covered, look right here on the agreement ...
[steven]
Yes, I see that clause however, I also see my initials [finger pointing directly at the SDH] scribed on the brake pads, rotor, and several other parts right here.... looks kinda like the initials I put there before I brought the car in here for warranty service....
There's more, but i'll shut-up for now.
Be sure these guys are not screwing you.
I agree the computer (PCM, PowertrainControlModule) is expensive --
Since you're not mechanically inclined, I'm afraid your at their mercy.
Most likely they've plugged in an OBDii Code Reader and it failed to communicate with the cars OBD (On Board Diagnostics) system. The connector for this scanner is directly above the gas pedal under the dash. You can feel the connector port while your driving.
If that's their basis for spending $800 without testing for power to the PCM, it may cost a bit more, like $800 + $4 (for a fuse or relay).
I have absolutely NO faith in any service garage, and NO.. the dealers aren't any better than Ma & Pa's place, so I'm a bit bias toward the home mechanic.
The master (high current) fuse/breaker/relay (whichever is used on the Conti) located inside the Power Distribution Box under the hood for the Fuel Pump may also be blown since you wern't getting fuel either.
Technically, the book says "A qualified technician" should replace these "high current" fuses.
However, what they mean is; Disconnect the battery before servicing anything inside the Power Distribution Box, and ensure the correct amperage replacement is used, and be sure the replacement is securely seated.
I'm in no position here to doubt the diagnosis of two seperate mechanical services, and you can't either -- however you have the right to keep ALL the parts removed/replaced on your car. All you have to do is ask for all the old parts to be saved for you.
With the old parts in hand, and a bit of information from the good 'ol boys herein, you can at least verify the parts replaced on your car at least LOOK new....
Dont be too surprized if the old PCM in hand works just as well as the new PCM in car.
[steven talks to himself..]
Shut the Fuk up Steven, quit dissing all those honest mechanics and dealers !!
[the little steven on the other shoulder takes over..]
What the heck? Quit dissing the shops and dealers? Shit man, I can name 50 shops, and at least EVERY dealer's service department I've ever had the displeasure to deal with, that have lied, cheated, falsified documents, added services not performed, double/tripple/quadruple inflated parts costs, to make extra $$.
Here's a good one:
[steven]
Umm, Mr. Service Mgr.. Look over here >> Your billing says these brake pads were contaminated, and the rotors were warped beyond repair, it also says these were replaced, right?
[AV Chrysler Svc Mgr]
Well yes Mr SDH, these things do happen and their not covered by warranty, when the grease splashes around its considered "coinsidental damage" and specifically not covered, look right here on the agreement ...
[steven]
Yes, I see that clause however, I also see my initials [finger pointing directly at the SDH] scribed on the brake pads, rotor, and several other parts right here.... looks kinda like the initials I put there before I brought the car in here for warranty service....
There's more, but i'll shut-up for now.
drewlane
10-01-2005, 04:20 PM
FYI, got the car back.
They replaced two parts according to my invoice:
1F3Z-6C315-AA Sensor - Crankshaft Position
F6PZ-12A650-EAB Module - Engine Control - EEC
Parts: $517
Labor: $350
Opened the hood and saw that they replaced the computer but it says it's a remanufactured unit. Damn. And the Part# for the computer is slightly different than was was in their originally (F50F-12A650-BC). Does it matter? The car was purchased in California originally, BTW.
After driving it around it seems OK, but I noticed that the accelleration is a little different now. When you step on the gas, the car accellerates more quickly. It used to be a kinda slow, gradual thing. I actually like the way it feels now, but why the difference? New Computer?
They replaced two parts according to my invoice:
1F3Z-6C315-AA Sensor - Crankshaft Position
F6PZ-12A650-EAB Module - Engine Control - EEC
Parts: $517
Labor: $350
Opened the hood and saw that they replaced the computer but it says it's a remanufactured unit. Damn. And the Part# for the computer is slightly different than was was in their originally (F50F-12A650-BC). Does it matter? The car was purchased in California originally, BTW.
After driving it around it seems OK, but I noticed that the accelleration is a little different now. When you step on the gas, the car accellerates more quickly. It used to be a kinda slow, gradual thing. I actually like the way it feels now, but why the difference? New Computer?
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