Bleeding brakes

Ok, so my friend FINALLY got all the parts to fix his brakes. We put all new rotors and pads in as well as front left and right rear calipers. So we go to bleed the right rear and it just never seems to stop having the bubbles. We bled about 20 oz through and the bubbles were getting fewer and further in between, but we needed to get the rest of it done so we just left it. The left rear and right front didnt even need to be bled, no bubbles at all. The left front, however, was about half air half brake fluid. So while we are bleeding it, the fuckin bleeder screw broke! :banghead: All of the brake fluid in the front left and right rear drained out and there wasnt any fluid in the brake fluid holder (brain fart, whatever the fuck its called). Does anyone know why it took so much fluid and the right rear still wasnt good yet? We are working on the bleeder screw, I think we get get it exchanged or something. The car isnt being driven, its still parked until the interior gets finished and/or we get a hold of a test pipe and wont be driven until the brakes get un-fucked. Did we miss a step in the bleeding process?

Did we miss a step in the bleeding process?

What steps did you take? Hard to mess up a bleed job. Pump brakes and hold, open bleeder air and fluid shoot out, close bleeder and repeat until only fluid comes out. Did you bleed the master? Check it for leaks? Did you check lines for leaks? Does the pedal go to the floor everytime, or does it gain resistance each time? If you bleed right the pedal will travel less each time, and if not it sounds like a leak to me. :2cents:

No we did not bleed the master cylinder. How would we go about doing this? When we bled them, we just opened the bleeder screw, pumped the brakes and let the brake fluid shoot out the bleeder screw and into the tube. Was this bad or incorrect? We checked for leaks and didnt see any, but we didnt go all hard core looking for them. The pedal would firm up when we pumped the brakes without the bleeder screw being open. Sorry for the retarded question, I was really tired and wanted to get this question up in the air before I took a nap and I forgot to search. Thanks for your help and any more in the future.

how many times did you bleed it when the air just kept comming out, it usually takes quite a few times to get all of the air out, expecially if you drained all of the brake fluid out. if you did it quite a few times, then air is getting in the line somehow, either a TINY crank or a needle size hole or cross threaded bolt on the lines. its hard to tell.

:nono: DO NOT take your foot off of the brake pedal while the bleeder is open. You just suck air back in that way. I bleed the master much the same way as the rest. Pump the brake pedal, HOLD it to the floor, loosen the line (I do one at a time) at the master and let the fluid and air out (make sure you have plenty of fluid handy as you will have to fill the resevoir a few times). Tighten the line, THEN let off the pedal. Repeat this on both lines, one at a time until only fluid comes out. If you let out on the pedal while you had the bleeder open, then you did it wrong.

Holy shit, thanks man. I swear thats what my teacher was doing, but oh well, we'll fix it. What lines are you talking about? The ones coming right off the bottom front side of the master cylinder? Does it matter which one we do first? Thanks again, we really appreciate it.

Well, mine is a 2g :naughty: and they are on top, but brakes is brakes and they will be the metal lines coming off of the master. The look like brake lines ; )

sooooo....... your TEACHER doesnt even know how to bleed brakes??? lol why was he not holding the pedal down?? lol i guess i read the post before mine wrong b/c i thought you were saying that you pumped the brakes AFTER you closed the bleeder. guess not.

get speed bleeder it make your job for easy :naughty: .

get speed bleeder it make your job for easy :naughty: .

:iagree:

BUT as for teacher :nutkick:

BUT as for teacher :nutkick:
:rofl: Yeah no kidding. Oh well, thanks for your help guys, I really appreciate it.

So, have you fixed it yet?

No, I was at a cross country meet (personal best, 3.1 miles in 21:25 :grinyes:) all day and Mike (the car in my sig is owned by him, I just work on it) is at a fishing trip. After I get done working tomorrow we will work on it. I am still a little confused about bleeding the master cylinder, is there a bleeder screw on that too? If not how do I do it? I know which lines you're talking about, I just wanted to clarify. Sorry, I have never had to do this or even heard that you have to or how to do it before. Thanks.

Normally I wouldn't worry about bleeding the master unless you ran completely out of fluid or installed a new master, but it sounded like you were having a real problem. If you didn't let the fluid get empty in the resevoir don't worry too much about it, just bleed the brakes as normal. The master has no bleeder screw. Just loosen the brake line fittings where they come into the master the same as you would the bleeder at the wheel.

Yeah, the master cylinder went completely empty. Would I have to pump the brakes, hold the pedal, and then loosen the line, the the pedal go soft, tighten the line, and repeat?

You got it man! : ) Same as the bleeder, don't let that pedal up until after you tighten the line.