Blowing GUAGES fuse every day.

So every day now I am replacing the fuse for my guages.

I cant seem to find any consistant reason or situation in which it blows.
Just once per day my guages just freeze.

Does any one have a schematic of what is supposed to be on that circuit? I know its a whole bunch more stuff than just guages.

Also, I have been using 30amp fuses even though its supposed to be a 20. Im almost hoping whatever is malfunctioning will burn up completely so I can see what the fark is wrong.

This problem has been on going for months but three days ago it became a daily occurence.

Thanks.

So every day now I am replacing the fuse for my guages.

I cant seem to find any consistant reason or situation in which it blows.
Just once per day my guages just freeze.

Does any one have a schematic of what is supposed to be on that circuit? I know its a whole bunch more stuff than just guages.

Also, I have been using 30amp fuses even though its supposed to be a 20. Im almost hoping whatever is malfunctioning will burn up completely so I can see what the fark is wrong.

This problem has been on going for months but three days ago it became a daily occurence.

Thanks.

Break out the multimeter. You have a dead short. I would look to where all your other accessories are hooked up (amp, stereo etc) and make sure they aren't on that line.

So every day now I am replacing the fuse for my guages.

I cant seem to find any consistant reason or situation in which it blows.
Just once per day my guages just freeze.

Does any one have a schematic of what is supposed to be on that circuit? I know its a whole bunch more stuff than just guages.

Also, I have been using 30amp fuses even though its supposed to be a 20. Im almost hoping whatever is malfunctioning will burn up completely so I can see what the fark is wrong.

This problem has been on going for months but three days ago it became a daily occurence.

Thanks.

What year, model etc. There is another post on the forum that was just posted from a guy from Venzuela, that seems to be having the same problem with a 1994.

Sorry, its a1995 Blazer LT 4wd 4 door.

And my amps and etc all have there own 4 awg line off the battery.

I did notice that when I accelerate hard over like 3200 the guages start to go all nuts and the volts guage drops significiantly.

Sorry, its a1995 Blazer LT 4wd 4 door.

And my amps and etc all have there own 4 awg line off the battery.

I did notice that when I accelerate hard over like 3200 the guages start to go all nuts and the volts guage drops significiantly.

Disconnect your amps for a couple of days and see how that goes. It could be you're back feeding power into the system (rare but it happens) and overloading that circuit.

Disconnect your amps for a couple of days and see how that goes. It could be you're back feeding power into the system (rare but it happens) and overloading that circuit.
How is that possible??? Their both connected hot to the battery and gnd to the frame.

How is that possible??? Their both connected hot to the battery and gnd to the frame.

I'm thinking of back feeding the power... Again, it's rare in your setup...Could also be drawing too much for the altanator to keep up with and putting too much of a load there...Part of diagnostics is playing "Process of elimination". Just saying disconnect your amps for a day or 2 to eliminate them as a possible suspect.

Also, don't install a bigger fuse than what is supposed to be installed.

All you will cause is a fire.

Get under you dash and start tracing wires and look for somewhere where the wiring has worn through its insulator.

BlazerLT, I realize the implifications of installing a larger fuse as I have been in the electrical field for 10 years+. Not to be conceited or anything, I appreciate the comment. Especially if I wasnt willing to start a fire or didnt realize the result of the larger fuse.

I am having trouble thinking this is a shorting wire. The closer I watch things I notice that only in second gear above 3200 rpm's the guages are climbing at the same time. With the exception of the volt guage that goes down.
There must be a tranny servo or something that is faulty.

Also when this problem first poped up I pulled the whole column apart and tested all the wires on the ignition. None of them were shorted in any position of the ignition. Also I checked for change in 12v potential.

BlazerLT, I realize the implifications of installing a larger fuse as I have been in the electrical field for 10 years+. Not to be conceited or anything, I appreciate the comment. Especially if I wasnt willing to start a fire or didnt realize the result of the larger fuse.

I am having trouble thinking this is a shorting wire. The closer I watch things I notice that only in second gear above 3200 rpm's the guages are climbing at the same time. With the exception of the volt guage that goes down.
There must be a tranny servo or something that is faulty.

Also when this problem first poped up I pulled the whole column apart and tested all the wires on the ignition. None of them were shorted in any position of the ignition. Also I checked for change in 12v potential.

Check your wiring going to and from your VSS on the tailshaft of your transmission.

Blazerlt, thanks Ill try to check that out this weekend. Between all the other projects and my Revo.

Ill let you know what if anything I find.
Thanks again.

Did you find anything out?

My '93 is having the same problem. I noticed that not just guages go out, The transmission will also switch to safe mode. It will only have 2nd gear. It will also cause your altinator to stop charging. Once your battery dies, you'll be stuck. I pulled the fuse box out, there are two wires going into the fuse that keeps blowing. You can hook just the wire that goes to your guages back up. This will keep your guages going, plus now the altinator will work. You will need to shift to 1st manually on the column and then upshift to (D) once you have enough RPMs. I traced the wires back to the computer... bought a new one today and installed. Still keeps happening, I guess it's not that. I have wired the bad wire to the radio fuse, instead of the guages fuse, this way if it blows I only lose my radio and not the altinator or gauges. Let me know if you find a problem, I would love to get my fixed!

Thanks,

Shawn

I Had Problem With My 2000. My Fuse Would Go For Gas Gauge And 4x4 Buttons. It Turned Out To Be Trasfer Case Moduler

Ok, I ended up taking it in to the "stealer".
For $92.00 my uncle who works there told me that my left motor mount is wasted, and is causing the engine to rock while under hard excelleration and will then pinch the main harness from the engine and cause the short problem.

He also found and replaced a breaker under the dash somewhere that was visibily toasty. He replaced that with a better version. Apparently it was the wiring screws that were too small or something like that.

I am picking up the truck tomorrow and maybe Friday I will be fixing the motor mount, as long as I can get parts by then. Im told that if I take off the brake booster I can get inside the wiring harness to find any faulty wires.

Ill post when I get into it.

Just a quick update on my situation, that seemed similiar to yours. MT-2500 provided a fuse diagram and thought that the Rear-window deffoger might be the culprit, since it's on the same circuit. 2- Days ago I disconnected the rear-window deffoger switch and everythings runs perfect now. Haven't had any problems since. Pretty easy to give it a try. I noticed the difference right away.

Good Luck!

The rear window defogger? This was causing your guages fuse to blow?

Mine is always as Im crossing over 3k rpms. I guess I knew it wasnt going to be from the motor mounts, cause thats way too consistant to be a motor mount problem.

But its a good thing that I changed them, the left one was in two peices, it wasnt even a motor mount any more, and the right one was starting to tear as well.

My uncle mentioned something called a "Purge solenoid flow switch", not sure exactly what that is, but he said it had really low resistance and that also could be the culprit. I guess Ill have to give him a call today and see what he says.

I finally fixed it:)

The wire from the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Relay to the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve was shorting out as the intake was switching.

What a pain in the arse.

I found an old topic from Southern Comfort that reffered me to a web site www.autorepairmanualcd.com. From them I bought this CD that is basically a compilation of service bulletins and schematics. From that I was able to trace it down to the two components IMTV & IMTVR.

It was the bad Left engine mount that caused the damage to the wire, in turn short circuiting each time the relay was pulled in. So Lt was right it was a short circuit. Just no where near anything any one thought would be shorting out.

If anyone else needs the engine compartment schematics let me know. Apparently they are hard to get.

Thanks for everyones help.

I am glad the url to the cd manuals worked for you. I have bought chilton's and haynes manuals for years now. There is no comparison to the CD. It's well worth the 25 dollars we pay for these cd's and they are more complete than haynes and chilton's. I think people would rather pay 25 dollars for a complete detailed information cd, than what they would for the other sources. I have bought several of these CD's for different vehicles. I'll never buy another manual from anyone else. These CD's are worth their weight in gold to me.
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