Drive Plate Bolts

What do I need to use to take the drive plate bolts off? I had a friend bend a 17mm wrench at the open end but it still wants to slip off of the impossiby skinny bolt head. I hold the crank on the other side with a breaker bar while I do it. The bolt seems smaller than 17mm but bigger than 16mm, this is retarded.

On top of that I still need to find threaded rod to make the tensioner tool and a real(not crap) oil seal puller for the main seals. I started to try and pull the tranny with the motor and broke the tied rod oil seal and the tie rod doesn't want to come off (but is disconnected) and the lower arm ball joint won't separate at all after repeat hammerings of the pickle fork with a sledge hammer. Also, this car is not gonna make it to a lift so it'll be a real pain disconnecting the axles so I'm going motor only. The head has been removed along with all but the crankshaft sprocket which was removed but I put back on to get these drive plate bolts. Maybe a skinny line wrench will work?

Right now all I want is to take those drive plate bolts off and pull this mother. What do I need to do?

I really need an answer to this question. Are they reverse threaded perhaps?

Impact wrench? Did you round off the bolts? There is a tool for that too. They are not reverse threaded. If all else fails cut the damn head off the bolts and get new ones. That is what I had to do on one of mine.

No I haven't rounded off any yet but I'm afraid I might. Thing is, I can't get a socket on the bolts because of the plate between the block and the transmission housing. If I cut the plate will I be able to?

So, once I cut the heads off the bolts will the torque converter separate from the drive plate easily? Won't that make the shank of the bolt a pain to remove?

What size worked for you, 17mm?

Feel free to correct me on anything and please give me all of the information you have. I really want to get this motor swap done and I really want to get it done right. I'll cut them if I have to but I'll round them off first if it comes to that.

What plate are you talking about? Not the splash shield is it? Can you take it off? To me, it is always easier to pull the motor and transmission at the same time on these cars. It doesn't take very long, and you will have a lot more room to work. Cutting the bolt is a last resort.

I'm pretty sure it's the drive plate, it's just three stupid special bolts that can be reached through the starter hole. It's the same plate that has the 6 bolts attached to it, hence the 6 bolt.

I don't see how taking the transmission out is going to make taking those bolts off any easier. Taking the transmission out requires disconnection of the tie rods, lower arm ball joints and the axles if I'm not mistaken. I wish someone could explain how to take them off and how it benifits to remove the transimission as well.

Thing is, I can't get a socket on the bolts because of the plate between the block and the transmission housing. If I cut the plate will I be able to?


I know what the drive plate is. What plate can't you get around? The only other thing I can think of is the splash shield. I only suggested taking the tranny out because unless you have a lift it really beats the hell out of laying underneath the car. You can see and manuver better to figure out your problem. Thus you save time even if you have to remove some other stuff to get it out.

I'm guess I'm talking about the splash shield then. I don't need to go under the car to take these bolts off as far as I can tell. Is there another way to access them? Or are you talking about the other bolts, the ones that connect the housing to the block?

I'm sorry but replacing tie rod ends is not my idea of saving time...or money for that matter. Unless there is some way to not break the grease seal and remove them.

I need either a picture or a really detailed description of this I think.

short socket and a universal joint and get the drive plate in the exaxt right position and you can get it on there. I was able to get my impact on them but barely and be careful to make sure you get the socket on all the way, wiggle it in it will go. also use an impact socket, most are made to put pressure on the sides of the head of the bolt instead of the corners. to get my impact on it I had to wiggle it up underneath the exhaust manifold seperately, wiggle the socket on and then connect the 2. be very careful if using the impact because one hit from it without being on all the way and you're screwed. also if not using an impact, I don't remember where to get them (I think it was sears:Craftsman) but you can buy a thin wall socket that will make it easier, but you can't use the impact, you will break the socket.

Also for the tierod end you can go to autozone and rent a tierod end puller, you just take the nuts off of the bottom of them and use the puller to push them up out of the hub. for the other suspension you simply take off the nuts, and use a rubber mallet or preferably a dead blow hammer.to knock them out. Tie them to the upper suspension loosely though so when you do get them knocked out they do fly down and hit the floor.

That was a great description but are you talking about the 420a?

yes, but I know the suspension pulls apart the same( you have a 4g63 or 4g64 right?), and unless you have a turbo in the way I think you should be able to pull out the driveplate bolts the same way, that one I am not 100% on though.

and sorry missed that you said that the tie rod end was disconnected. as in already pulled from the hub? if so had the same prob on a friend's pontiac, and put an open end wrench on the lock nut and a pipe wrench on the tie rod end to get a better grip to break it free.

Well I still have to disconnect the lower arm ball joint and the pickle fork didn't work even though I hit it with a sledge hammer. My starter is on the firewall(intake) side of the motor. Thanks for the help though.