Stopping problem

Whats up? Got a question. If my car sits all night and i take it out in the morning, when i brake its usually fine, no noise or anything but doesnt stop quick enough for me. Anyway if i drive for a little bit say 15min-30min. If im going fast or just regulary whenever i brake it shakes like all hell and is hard as shit to stop. Im not sure if i need new brakes or rotors or both or wtf is going on. But say i let it sit for hours at a time and then drive it again it doesnt start doing that until i drive it for awhile. Otherwise it does it all the time. I thought i heard are cars had issues with the rotors heating up or something? Just started doing this past couple months so if u guys can recall anything let me know thanks. Probably take it to get brakes and rotors soon. Also i would think alignment but this is pretty bad when i brake, shakes hard and is hard to stop.

You will need to either machine or buy new rotors because one of two things happened:

1) You have crappy (or organic) brake pads on which developed hot spots and it "scortched) your rotors so there are parts of the rotors with different coefficient of friction on it (in which case you need to change your pads and your rotors).

2) You have warped the rotor

Also if you suspet it's a suspention problem, things to look for is: Shaking at high speed, shaking when accelerating or braking, weird sounds (or shaking stops) when cornering.

before you buy new rotors, see if your rotors are warped AND can be machined smooth again. a brake shop (Midas) or any decent shop could tell you this. if your rotors are warped, you will get a shaking at high speeds when you brake.

Yeah, get your rotors checked. Also keep in mind, if you have metallic or semi-metallic pads, they generally work better as they warm up a bit. So at cold conditions, they don't work the best, which is one of hte downsides for using them on a daily driven street car. I have Stillin metal matrix pads which are semi-metallic and though the difference isn't as bad with that particular brand, I can still notice a difference on my first stops when the weather is colder and the car has been sitting overnight.

ya i agree with them italian lunitcz/ Also i would recomend gettin some ceramic break pads -for the vr4/tt models it costs about 76$ a pair for the front - but let me tell u- its totaly worth it

Update-
Took the car to my dads shop and we put it up on a lift. We took off the tires and i actually have about half a pad or more left on the brakes so i should be good on that. Also the rotors dont look to bad at all as to what i thought. But on my front left driver side we took it off and the bearing was all rusted and ceased inside. Try to picture this...if your on the right front side the tire moves left and right if you grab it and turn it easily. On the left side however it is really stiff and will barely move side to side. My dads lookin into it but do you guys have any idea? I It moves up and down fine which would be the ball joint i think? But since it wont budge left and right motion could it be a cv joint or something? Transaxle? I have no idea. If i cant find anything ill just take your guys advice and have a prof shop look it over. Thanks. (My bad if confusing hard to explain)

Uhm... Do you mean the wheel on the left does not rotation around the axle or you can wiggle the tire back and forth on the right?

By hand, you should not be able to wiggle the wheel at all, just rotate the tire. If anything feels loose at all, you have suspension/steering parts that are worn (In this case it would most likely be a combination of tierod and ball joint).

CV joint failure sound like a popping noise coming out of the wheel when turning or acelerating so I doubt it's that.

Yeah, the problem one is the one that is moving, not the stiff one. If you can move it by hand, the wheel bearings may need replacing.